Series IIA Engine Woes

[busboy]

We posted at the same time, your plug gap should be .030 inch your gap is way too large and that is the problem, points should be .014 to .016 inch.

[fbnksrover]

I should have been more clear. I used the mm (.75 to .80) to set plug gap. I think it is correct, but wasn't real sure what "slight drag" meant from the book. I'm not so sure the point gap is set correctly. I couldn't quite figure it out from the book. I could not figure out how to slacken the gap. All I did was press the side of it to open it up, but then it would spring back. It was the only way I could get the feeler gauge in there. What's the magic trick I'm missing?

[busboy]

To decrease the plug gap very lightly tap the end of the plug on a hard surface to close the gap, it doesn't take much, and to open it I use a feeler gauge and wiggle it open slightly. The gap is correct when the right size feeler will just go in with a slight interference/drag.

[busboy]

Ah sorry you wanted the trick to setting the points and that does sound like you problem. They are critical. I have only ever seen adjustable points but I do believe there are set NON adjustable points available nowadays. To adjust points, key must be OFF and 4th gear selected with the distributor cap off. Rock the vehicle until the points come up on one of the 4 corners of the square cam, if you go too far you can go backwards but then come back forwards again to the set position. This is where the points are set .014 to .016 inch, by loosening the hold down screw with a flat blade screwdriver then use the same flat blade to insert into the notch to slide the points more open or closed. It is difficult to do especially if there is play in the distributor shaft. After you have it set tighten and recheck. It is also important that you inspect the contact surface of the points, they should be smooth as they pit from use and you cannot get them set if there is a large pit mark. They can be filed smooth with a point file or small smooth file. Excessive pitting is caused by a bad condenser, I always replace both when changing points.

[busboy]

One other thing make sure the spring loaded carbon brush is still in the center of the distributor cap and is free to move in and out.

[ArlowCT]

Remember the distributor rotates "anti-clockwise". I have fallen victim to this before.

[fbnksrover]

Okay.

Checked out the spark plug gaps. They seem to be properly gapped. Checked out the points gap on the distributor. It appears to be properly spaced. I have the CB Earth Connector grounded to the base plate screw. I think that is correct. Checked the carbon brush spring. It's there and working. I'm still convinved the plug wires from the distributor are not correctly set to the proper spark plug? The engine starts now, but fires a loud pop regularly, a lot like a backfire or loud, close gunshot. I attached a link to a video if anyone is following the drama.

Here's the result.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u3GSj0ZN43Q&feature=youtu.be

[busboy]

As Arlow mentioned the distrib rotates anticlockwise it sounds like there is a couple of leads switched 1342 clockwise gives 1243 anticlockwise.

[fbnksrover]

Okay.

Had the leads all out of order. I rearranged them I believe in the right order. The engine started right up, idled for 3-4 minutes, and cut off. I tried to restart, no luck, waited a couple of minutes, and it started up again. I've been through this same cycle twice now. Any suggestions?

[SafeAirOne]

Set the plug gap to between .75 and .80, so should be okay?

Without consulting the book, .75-.80 seems a bit...enormous...for a spark plug gap to me.

EDIT: Nevermind--There was another whole page of posts I missed.

[fbnksrover]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u3GSj0ZN43Q

Getting better, but still not quite right.

[SafeAirOne]

The engine started right up, idled for 3-4 minutes, and cut off. I tried to restart, no luck, waited a couple of minutes, and it started up again.

When it's NOT starting back up, will it start for a second or two if you squirt a tiny bit of starting fluid down the carb? If so, you have a fuel problem. If not, you have an ignition problem.

[fbnksrover]

Okay. Started right up and idled or about 5 minutes. I did not add anything to it, and it did not seem as if it was going to cut off. I had to turn off the engine before the carbon monoxide alarm activated. One thing though: I had a brand new battery in the rover (less than 30 days old) and it's already discharged. I swapped it out with an older one (maybe 6 months old) and the vehicle started running. Any thoughts on what could have drawn the power from the new battery? It's been kept in a heated garage with the vehicle.

[SafeAirOne]

A bad alternator or regulator (battery not recharging)?

It's time to get a multi-meter and do some basic electrical troubleshooting--Nobody is going to be able to tell you what's wrong with your electrical system over the internet. It'll just be a bunch of guesses, like mine above.

[busboy]

If you have a spare coil try that as a bad coil would do what you are saying and could be your problem, if you don't have one it's always nice to carry a couple of spark plugs and leads even old ones, a coil and condenser. Also some years ago I chased a no start problem on mine, there was no rime or reason to it not starting, I eventually changed the fuel pump and it never did it again.