Crank Pulley Bolt and Seal

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  • rbbailey
    1st Gear
    • Sep 2010
    • 161

    Crank Pulley Bolt and Seal

    OK, so I tried to do this seal myself. Not much info on it in the Green Bible, etc... I've heard of the mud shield modification. But I have no way of being able to do that.

    So, I have the seal, what else do I need?

    Where can I get instructions for this?

    And finally, since I figured taking the bolt off was not a super technical issue that I could do and then come back and figure out how to complete the job later, I went out and bought a very large wrench, put a block of wood in the crank case to hold it still, then pulled and pulled and hammered and hammered till.... I broke the stupid bolt off... now what?

    Help.
  • meatblanket
    Low Range
    • Dec 2007
    • 98

    #2
    Wow. That must've taken a hell of a lot of torque to do that.

    Sorry but you're screwed. The crankshaft will have to come out.
    '55 SI 86

    Comment

    • rbbailey
      1st Gear
      • Sep 2010
      • 161

      #3
      I don't even lift.

      Will the engine have to be removed to do this?

      Comment

      • NC_Mule
        2nd Gear
        • Mar 2010
        • 222

        #4
        Just changed my front main seal and preformed the mud shield mod last week. No reason not to do the mud shield mod if your going to change the seal. That being said breaking that bolt is a serious situation. Did it make a clean break at the crank or is some of it sticking out?

        Info on ft seal.

        Comment

        • meatblanket
          Low Range
          • Dec 2007
          • 98

          #5
          Originally posted by rbbailey
          I don't even lift.

          Will the engine have to be removed to do this?
          Yes. But post a pic of what you've got now, maybe someone will come up with a creative way to remove the broken bolt from the crankshaft nose. But with something that large and that tight I doubt you'll have much luck with that.
          '55 SI 86

          Comment

          • rbbailey
            1st Gear
            • Sep 2010
            • 161

            #6
            I saw that thread earlier, thanks. That's how I knew about the mud cover mod. But I don't have the tools or knowledge to do that. And if I tried, as seen here, I would end up ruining the block.

            Something I'm unclear on -- the steps. Can someone provide the steps to this project (aside from breaking the bolt). All I can see is that it is "easy" or "no problem". But I am not clear on what has to come off to get to the seal. Does the front engine cover have to come off? Seems like that is what I'm reading. But in other places, it doesn't sound like that.

            Comment

            • siii8873
              Overdrive
              • Jul 2007
              • 1013

              #7
              ouch, not good. Did you bend the locking tab out of the way before trying to remove the bolt. Was it a bolt or the starting dog, not that it matters. If ot were me I'd check the lock tab first. If that is clear drill and tap the center of the bolt for a left hand threaded bolt. Might work.
              THING 1 - 1973 88 SIII - SOLD
              THING 2 -1974 88 SIII Daily Driver - SOLD
              THING 3 - 1969 88 SIIA Bugeye Project
              THING 4 - 1971 109 SIIA ExMod - SOLD
              THING 5 - 1958 109 PU
              THING 6 - 1954 86" HT

              Comment

              • rbbailey
                1st Gear
                • Sep 2010
                • 161

                #8
                Well, considering that none of the info I read said anything about a locking tab, and since I didn't notice one, I have to assume I didn't bend it out of the way the normal way. Where is it anyway?

                See if this link works to the photo of broken bolt: https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B8PQ...it?usp=sharing

                Comment

                • JimCT
                  5th Gear
                  • Nov 2006
                  • 518

                  #9
                  bolt

                  that bolt looks fine, plenty of thread left



                  Originally posted by siii8873
                  ouch, not good. Did you bend the locking tab out of the way before trying to remove the bolt. Was it a bolt or the starting dog, not that it matters. If ot were me I'd check the lock tab first. If that is clear drill and tap the center of the bolt for a left hand threaded bolt. Might work.
                  1968 battlefield ambulance/camper
                  1963 Unimog Radio box
                  1995 LWB RR

                  Comment

                  • rbbailey
                    1st Gear
                    • Sep 2010
                    • 161

                    #10
                    But what does that really have to do with it? I mean, the pulley is still on, can't change the seal, etc.... Buying a new bolt is the least of my worries.

                    Comment

                    • JimCT
                      5th Gear
                      • Nov 2006
                      • 518

                      #11
                      pull the pulley off the crank
                      1968 battlefield ambulance/camper
                      1963 Unimog Radio box
                      1995 LWB RR

                      Comment

                      • rbbailey
                        1st Gear
                        • Sep 2010
                        • 161

                        #12
                        Won't come. I think the threads are still part on pulley, part on whatever it anchors to. Is there some way to take the pulley off if it is not still threaded?

                        Comment

                        • NC_Mule
                          2nd Gear
                          • Mar 2010
                          • 222

                          #13
                          Bolt doesn't look broken. Take a rubber mallet and hit the back of the pulley. Or take a brass drift and hit the back of the pulley at different angles and positions. As for the seal you still have to pull the water pump, radiator, generator. If you feel you're in over your head it would be best to stop now.

                          Comment

                          • SafeAirOne
                            Overdrive
                            • Apr 2008
                            • 3435

                            #14
                            Ha! JimCT said it best:
                            pull the pulley off the crank
                            You didn't break the stupid bolt off--you broke it loose.

                            That bolt's not broken at all and the pulley is not threaded onto anything either. You've simply removed the bolt. Period. Now you must slide the pulley off the crankshaft. It may be reluctant, but it just slides off. You can't spin the pulley on the crankshaft because it's keyed to the crankshaft, but it will slide STRAIGHT off.

                            If it were me, I'd thread that bolt halfway back in, put a gear puller on the backside of the pulley and slowly crank it out against the head of the bolt, being careful not to break the pulley casting. Once it starts moving, it'll come the rest of the way off. Obviously, once the pulley bottoms out against the bolt head, stop cranking on the puller.

                            BTW, gear puller:



                            I'd recommend hitting the factory Workshop manual for the SIII--It's downloadable from several places on the internet--and it details this procedure quite nicely (as do the pre-SIII books, I'm sure) plus the SIII book tells how to accomplish the front seal mud shield modification as mentioned earlier in this thread.

                            What engine is that? Probably a 2.25, judging by the non-aluminum timing case? Your bolt looks like an ETC7934 bolt, which I believe is metric (2.5 liter engines and probably later 2.25 engines), and if it is, there usually isn't a locking tab of any kind, so make sure you use plenty of red threadlocker on it when you tighten it down, and tighten it down HARD when you reinstall it (trust me on this one).

                            Also, if it is a 2.5 engine, don't worry about that mud shield modification--It doesn't use that setup. Later 2.25 may have been factory modified. Oh, and if it's a 2.5 engine, download one of the Workshop Manuals for the 90/110 that covers this engine.

                            ETC7934:



                            Good luck.
                            Last edited by SafeAirOne; 06-19-2013, 07:20 AM.
                            --Mark

                            1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel

                            0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
                            (9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).

                            Comment

                            • rbbailey
                              1st Gear
                              • Sep 2010
                              • 161

                              #15
                              Hummmm...

                              I think it is broken. The end looks just like a sheared axle, and the threads don't come to a nice end, they look ripped.

                              HOWEVER! I did finally get the pulley off, and I'm now able to visualize how this all goes together (not knowing how the parts fit to one another makes it hard to figure out what to do next, you know?) And I think the bolt, broken or not, has enough thread on it to reuse.

                              So, I'm going to proceed as normal.

                              Drill out the rivets now. I assume they will fall inside and out through the oil pan?
                              Is the seal held in by the mud shield, or is there another piece I don't know about?
                              What else do I need to know?

                              Thanks for the help!

                              Comment

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