Lots of Questions!

[I Leak Oil]

Get the mechanical part of it (removing front cover, adjusting chain etc.) out of your head. If the motor ran fine before it was removed you shouldn't have to touch any of that. You probably don't have to touch the ignition timing either if it ran fine. Install the motor, start it up and see how it runs now.

Take a look at the video Mark posted. It will go a long way in helping your understanding of the ignition system.

[SafeAirOne]

The first 4 1/2 minutes of this video is another fundamental explanation of the ignition system. Disregard everything after the 5 minute mark:

Once you have an understanding of how this system works, it'll be easy for you to see how adjusting the ignition timing works. When you adjust the ignition timing, you are really just changing the position of the cam follower on the points in relation to the lobes on the distributor cam, causing the points open sooner (firing the spark plugs earlier in the combustion cycle) or open later (firing the spark plugs later in the combustion cycle).

[rbbailey]

I watched that first video yesterday, so thanks, it was a good thought!

OK, I think the one thing you are getting at -- why change what isn't broke? And get the mechanical part of what to do under the front cover out of my head -- that simple statement pretty much clears up my confusion. I think maybe people thought that when I had said I was putting in a "new" engine, they thought, "Have you done the timing?" Which would make sense with a NEW engine. So I was looking up and getting advice on the whole process for an engine that has had internal work or a new cam or something put in.

This is just a simple engine swap. A working engine coming out of one car, going into another, but I'm using the ancillaries from the old engine.

As far as I understand it, I should stick with a working engine, assume it is timed right internally, tune the distributor to the working engine. NOT go back to square one and set the static timing, etc...

The videos and such give good details, but they also confirm that my previous research had given me the basics in understanding the theory of spark to the engine.

I'll have this thing running in four hours.... which is what I said about 8 hours of work ago. Keep running into little things that shouldn't take so long, but do. So I'll work on it an hour after work each day this week and get it running some time this week.

[I Leak Oil]

Sounds like you're on the right track.
The joys of working on old vehicles! What should take an hour can sometimes turn into many hours of after work fun! Soak it all in, you'll be an expert on your truck before you know it!

[jac04]

Moly grease -- how much moly in the grease is acceptable? Napa has a version, but it does not say any specifics about it?

I assume you are talking about the moly grease for the shaft splines. If so, you really want moly paste, NOT moly grease. I use Loctite Moly Paste #51048 for these splines - it is 65% moly. Don't over-apply the grease, a little goes a long way. I don't know your location, but I'd be happy to give you a blob of it. Otherwise, some motorcycle shops will have moly paste since it's commonly used on motorcycle driveshaft splines.

[antichrist]

If the timing is right for the #1 cylinder the rest will be right, assuming the plug wires aren't crossed.
It's easier to get to TDC on compression before you install the engine. There's a mark on the flyhweel on the right side of the engine (as you face the flywheel). It's on the edge of the flywheel accessable beneath a cover plate.
With the distributor rotor pointing to #1 the mark on the flyhweel should be at the pointer. If it's not, rotate the crank 180 degrees.
Always rotate the crank in the direction of rotation as there is always a bit of slack in the timing chain.
If you don't know for a fact it was running before being taken out, you can make sure the distributor isn't in backwards by looking at the tappets to make sure they are both closed at TDC. You'll want the rocker cover off anyway to check valve clearance.