oil leak

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  • Zimbos
    Low Range
    • Jul 2013
    • 90

    oil leak

    after a routine Friday spin found this , the hole where it seems to be coming from looks threaded but not clean like a bolt just came out any thanks gareth dallas tx
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  • bugeye88
    1st Gear
    • Apr 2013
    • 167

    #2
    Zimbo,

    Well, they all leak, but this looks a bit more than usual. Rear main seal is my best guess. Oil looks a bit black, may be time for a change. As for the threaded hole, I think it's supposed to be open unless fording rivers and such.
    Rob
    68 series 2a Bug Eye

    Comment

    • stomper
      5th Gear
      • Apr 2007
      • 889

      #3
      I agree with bugeye. That is the clutch housing drain. If oil
      Leaks from there, it is usually the rear main seal. No plug should be put in there.
      Bad gas mileage gets you to some of the greatest places on earth.

      Comment

      • Zimbos
        Low Range
        • Jul 2013
        • 90

        #4
        is this rear main a nightmare , do I have to take off driveshaft, tunnel covers etc I assume the gearbox needs to be dropped and clear of working area
        any idea why it would leak all of a sudden like that , the only thing ive changed recently is the air filter bypassed the oil bath for a while

        Comment

        • SafeAirOne
          Overdrive
          • Apr 2008
          • 3435

          #5
          Is the crankcase being sufficiently vented? If the vent has been eliminated or obstructed, the pressure could build up, blowing stuff past the seals.
          --Mark

          1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel

          0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
          (9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).

          Comment

          • Zimbos
            Low Range
            • Jul 2013
            • 90

            #6
            thank you mark , wher and what should I look for in the vented issue

            Comment

            • SafeAirOne
              Overdrive
              • Apr 2008
              • 3435

              #7
              I don't have a 2.25 engine, but venting usually takes the form of a vented oil fill cap or a PCV system.
              --Mark

              1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel

              0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
              (9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).

              Comment

              • Zimbos
                Low Range
                • Jul 2013
                • 90

                #8
                I checked the venting all seems good , I did a oil change also dropped the pan cleaned out the sludge ,new gasket installed new oil and filter , drove around town and leak seems to still be there , rear main job in the pipeline . any ideas on shop rates for this I will have a shop do this too big for me

                Comment

                • stomper
                  5th Gear
                  • Apr 2007
                  • 889

                  #9
                  I had a shop do mine last year. Small local garage, that I went to high school with the owner. I think it set me back around $900. I did pick up the parts, including a fresh clutch, I removed the wings radiator and breakfast so I could save myself some shop labor.
                  Bad gas mileage gets you to some of the greatest places on earth.

                  Comment

                  • BobJones
                    Low Range
                    • Jun 2008
                    • 61

                    #10
                    Yup rear main. First job I've ever had a shop do for me. I also had a new clutch plate installed. I wish I had the trany seals or transfer case done too they're now leaking like crazy too.

                    Comment

                    • fliptscript
                      Low Range
                      • Jul 2008
                      • 12

                      #11
                      This isn't a terrible job to do yourself - it's just no fun. In a nutshell... take the seat box/floor/tunnel out, disconnect the rear prop, and you should be able to pull the transmission out. I think I had my tub off at the time, but I don't think that was necessary. After that, you can get to the rear seal by removing the drain pan. The seal (~ $15) is sort of an interesting split design. Replace the clutch before you bolt the transmission back on.

                      I can't say doing it made me a better person, but it really wasn't that bad.
                      1967 IIA 109 Regular RHD
                      1993 Range Rover LWB (gone, thankfully)
                      1969 IIA 88 Bugeye (gone, unfortunately)

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