Shorland brake booster problems.

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  • Contractor
    1st Gear
    • Jan 2013
    • 127

    #16
    Originally posted by clearcut
    Update

    Still no brakes. 2 or 3 pumps, then to the floor

    By passed everything

    Getting a pressure brake system next..

    there are no leaks of brake fluid

    Question, can you get air from the clutch master back into the brake master?

    Replaced the brake master
    Replaced all brake line to front wheels and back wheels
    Did the hose test, IE master is good.
    Reset the cams


    thanks

    josh

    Are you 100% positive you bled the brakes and got ALL of the air out?

    The 109 master is a Mother F*&^%$ to bleed.
    1969 IIA - Tan
    1969 IIA - Blue

    Comment

    • clearcut
      2nd Gear
      • Jul 2014
      • 233

      #17
      Originally posted by Contractor
      Are you 100% positive you bled the brakes and got ALL of the air out?

      The 109 master is a Mother F*&^%$ to bleed.
      Not sure at all

      That is why we going to use a pressure bleeder this week.

      Having to buy one


      Dual Cyl on front wheels is the issue

      Anyone used a pressure bleeder?

      Best Practices?
      1967 Land Rover 109
      1966 Land Rover 109

      Joshua Tyler

      Comment

      • SafeAirOne
        Overdrive
        • Apr 2008
        • 3435

        #18
        Originally posted by clearcut
        Dual Cyl on front wheels is the issue

        Best Practices?

        Some folk plumb the fronts so the bottom cylinder is upstream of the top cylinders. In other words, the bottom wheel cylinder will be the first cylinder after the flex line, then the top cylinder, as opposed to the opposite way the factory plumbed the 2 wheel cylinders.

        The theory is that the air will want to rise in the system so the bottom cylinder will get the fluid (and get bled) before the top cylinder, where the excess air from the bottom cylinder will gather.

        The other way I've seen it done is by removing the backing plate, securing the wheel cylinders so they don't pop out, then bleeding with the brake backing plate sitting horizontally, so the cylinders are at the same height. Once the side is bled, reinstall the brake backing plate on the axle and do the other side. Kind of a huge PITA if you ask me...
        --Mark

        1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel

        0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
        (9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).

        Comment

        • Contractor
          1st Gear
          • Jan 2013
          • 127

          #19
          Originally posted by clearcut
          Not sure at all

          That is why we going to use a pressure bleeder this week.

          Having to buy one


          Dual Cyl on front wheels is the issue

          Anyone used a pressure bleeder?

          Best Practices?
          Been there........bang head on wall.


          I have had luck gravity bleeding first for a while.
          1969 IIA - Tan
          1969 IIA - Blue

          Comment

          • 917601
            Low Range
            • May 2008
            • 44

            #20
            Click image for larger version

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ID:	169236Can anyone direct me to a store that sells the British brake line fittings or hoses? I may have found a shop to rebuild my remote brake booster, however I need to take it out , ship it, and want to drive it while booster is being repaired. I need a hose/ fitting to go from the old style brake master cylinder directly to the junction block, or a hose to connect both ends at the point where the booster was removed ( a simple brake fitting union? ). Thanks.

            Comment

            • TravelinLight
              Low Range
              • Jan 2015
              • 51

              #21
              Our host would be my first call as they have just about anything. If not...........





              Sean
              1971 Series IIA Dormobile

              Comment

              • 917601
                Low Range
                • May 2008
                • 44

                #22
                Thank you, it appears num 2 has a few unions, thanks!

                Comment

                • 917601
                  Low Range
                  • May 2008
                  • 44

                  #23
                  Can anyone tell me what size line and thread pitch I would need to use a union to connect the two lines at the booster together? I take it they are standard British bubble flares, but they are asking for line DIA. and thread pitch.

                  Thank You.

                  Comment

                  • SafeAirOne
                    Overdrive
                    • Apr 2008
                    • 3435

                    #24
                    I don't have the answer for you--In fact, I recognize almost nothing from your picture--but using this resource, you can probably get it figured out:

                    http://store.fedhillusa.com/technicalhelphowtopdfs.aspx

                    Oh wait--I just had another look. I recognize the front drive shaft and the steering gearbox arm.
                    --Mark

                    1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel

                    0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
                    (9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).

                    Comment

                    • 917601
                      Low Range
                      • May 2008
                      • 44

                      #25
                      Thank you, on a footnote, I have always had "problems" when bleeding the brakes. I found (as suggested many times), be sure all 4 brake shoes are adjusted correctly. Rover issued a bulletin years ago, jack the wheel, have a person hold brakes down solid, then adjust the snails as far as they go. Release brakes, ( drum will still be unable to move), then back off the snails carefully till wheel is free ( I allow for a very slight drag).They say it lines up shoes and puts least force on the snail adjusters. It solved my soft brake, ( long travel). THEN bleed the brakes as usuall.

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