Probably worth fitting new bearings through out the gear box and intermediate shaft of the t. box. PM me and I'll get a Quote together for you.
Oh noooo - tranmission!!
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Just an update. My gearbox is stamped suffix A. So I ordered the appropriate parts for an A. The first thing I noticed was the layshaft was different. Whoopie. Mine has raised teeth and the one for an A does not. The raised teeth layshaft is apparently from a suffix D and beyond tranny. Also the intermediate shaft was also incorrect. Mine is a constant diameter and this one is reduced at one end.
So, the only thing "A" about my tranny is the plate the A is stamped on. My tranny is a D. Isn't that special.
edit to add: I will have some parts for a Suffix A tranny later at bargain basement prices.--David
1959 TR3
1970 Series IIa 88" ("Homer")
My hovercraft is full of eels.Comment
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I should probably say I did, but I sat there and zoned out while I cleaned it by hand...rubber gloves, gas, lots of rags, beer. Not in that order. I simply can't reinstall a dirty part. Must be the Forest Gump in me.--David
1959 TR3
1970 Series IIa 88" ("Homer")
My hovercraft is full of eels.Comment
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1968 Series IIa
1997 Defender SW (Original Owner - Sold)Comment
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Who ever designed the rear lay gear bearing concept for this transmission should be shot out of a cannon.
Here's why. The bearing race is pressed into the back of the case (or tapped in with a large wooden dowel and rubber mallet in my case). The roller bearing half is pressed onto the layshaft. Your job, is to insert the layshaft past the main shaft, reverse gear, etc, and get the roller bearing lined up with the race and press it in. Seems easy enough on the surface.
However, it ain't. The gearing on the mainshaft and the reverse gear need to be somehow levitated so that the layshaft can get by. Ok. There are ways to do this. I used sockets underneath the gears and accomplished that part of the mission. Next, when the roller bearing came into contact with the race, not all of the rollers slid inside the race. Since no one on earth has hands small enough to reach in and no tool exists which has eyes and is able to get past the few millimeters of clearance, there is no way to somehow check each and every little roller.
Therefore, if even one roller hangs up on the race instead of nicely slipping into the correct position, the roller bearing half will not mate with the race. Once I finally thought I had them all cooperating, I gave it a little convincing with my trusty rubber mallet. Noting that the shaft was wobbly and therefore, the bearing had not mated with the race, I withdrew the assembly and noted with pure joy that the roller bearing was now ruined.
Pray-tell. Can someone share the trick to accomplishing this task. And if the engineer who is responsible for this cluster-truck of a design is on the forum, please purchase a pie and smash it in your face so I don't have to. That is all.Last edited by slowmo; 03-11-2015, 06:55 PM.--David
1959 TR3
1970 Series IIa 88" ("Homer")
My hovercraft is full of eels.Comment
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I am sure many out there feel your pain.
When assembling the shafts, try standing the gearbox up on its end, so the shafts are facing vertically. Gravity will assist in lining the layshaft bearing to its race. This is the method we have successfully used for many years. Hope this helps.
2p.Les Parker
Tech. Support and Parts Specialist
Rovers North Inc.
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Gak. I figured out why this wasn't going together so well. As I noted I ordered parts for a suffix A tranny, and it turned out the only part that was suffix A was the plate the A was stamped on. The rest of the tranny is suffix D. Well, Slowmo Einstein put the suffix A first gear on the suffix D layshaft. For reasons known to no one, the suffix A first gear has 15 teeth. The suffix D first gear has 14 teeth (you can see where this is going).
I slathered my aviation gasket gunk on, got the bell housing buttoned up and proceeded to insert the gear selectors. "Hey," said Slowmo Einstein. "I can't get it into first gear. Fiddle-sticks." (edited for the under 18 crowd). Did a little research, kicked the cat (don't have one so that was lucky for the cat we don't have), and ordered the correct parts. I hope.
The odyssey continues.--David
1959 TR3
1970 Series IIa 88" ("Homer")
My hovercraft is full of eels.Comment
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Interesting read. I'm watching this thread closely as there's a gearbox rebuild in my future and my currently installed rebuilt transmission may be similarly mysterious.
Applicable info that confirms your finds here: http://www.seriesdiesellandrover.com...20Gearbox.html--Mark
1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel
0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
(9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).Comment
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A little update. Things are going together well. One thing I would point out to those going this route is to order the various shims at various thicknesses. Just do that, because they are inexpensive. I didn't think of ordering more slowdometer housing shims and I need some. Also, I can see no way those shims and the slowdometer housing can be sealed. I will probably "caulk" it with high temp RTV or something. Another poor design "feature."
One question to those experienced. After assembling the main gear box, I notice the shifting between 3rd and 4th is "heavy." I lubricated the syncro and assume that after a bit of running it will loosen up. What say yee?
edit to add: I am not working on this 24/7. Maybe a couple of nights a week after work. I am on the home(r) stretch and might even get it in this weekend...or next.--David
1959 TR3
1970 Series IIa 88" ("Homer")
My hovercraft is full of eels.Comment
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