I grabbed the top with a box end wrench or in the worst case scenario I used vise grips then hammered a socket on to the all but rusted off bottom and hit it with the impact gun, that turned them all off. Only downside is I need new bolts, darn eh.
New fuel tank rusted and leaking
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Got sick of boiling,, acid dipping, welding and soldering on fuel tanks. Had some issues with aluminum - Stainless is the answer
The only thing that I can think of that would make a dramatic improvement besides Stainless steel as a material, is fabricating an extra layer of 3/16 flat on the bottom for protection. Cheers,Comment
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After much delay I'm finally back at this project. I got the bolts off with an angle grinder and I decided to coat the tank with a POR15 kit and defer buying a stainless tank until later. So I've just put the metal prep in the tank and I noticed that it seems to be leaking back out fairly quickly. About half the degreaser/cleaner came out through the holes while I was sloshing it around. The problem is that I can't see any holes so I can't patch them from the outside. I assume that just means lots of pinholes. But my concern with the metal prep is that too much will leak out before it does an adequate job.
How do I know if it's done the job? And if not, is there another kind of metal prep (something cheaper/in larger bulk) that I can put in to continue the job? I'd hate to keep pouring quarts of POR15 in.1970 Series IIA
1964 Series IIA [sold]Comment
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How about just temporarily sealing the pinholes with duct tape from the outside until the POR15 has had a chance to do it's job? I restored an old Jaguar many years ago, and coated the inside of the tank with a sloshing compound I got from a shop that sold parts for antique Fords. It worked great. Can't remember the name though....Comment
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How is everyone's thoughts about the negative effects of Ethanol on the steel tank?Les Parker
Tech. Support and Parts Specialist
Rovers North Inc.
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