Frustration, as usual, when I wrench on my truck...

[badvibes]

'64 Series 2A. Was driving home thought I heard/felt a very faint "snap" rolled up to a light to stop, truck came out of gear just fine. Went to shift into gear when the light went green and all I could do was grind gears without the tranny going into gear. Was able to turn off the motor, put the truck into 2nd, hit the starter button while it was in gear and get the truck running so I could limp home. Truck has been dripping hydraulic fluid from around the clutch slave cylinder and I've been adding fluid as needed. Replaced the resorvoir a couple of months ago because it was leaking. That went well and hasn't been an issue since it was done. Got a new slave cylinder and installed it, replaced the spring on the clutch linkage that wasn't there when I crawled under the truck, noticed this when I looked at the Haynes manual to get ready to do the slave cylinder. Just used a generic spring I had and it seems to have plenty of tension to return the linkage. I think the spring broke and may be what I heard/felt snap when the problem started. Have bled the system several times now and I still cannot shift the tranny into gear, it grinds as I try to shift. The tranny shifts between gears just fine with the truck not running with the clutch either in or out. Suspect that the flex line between the slave and the hard line to the master cylinder may be bad, I can't watch it and pump the clutch at the same time but the jacketing around the rubber hose is coming apart and it seems damp, maybe it's weeping fluid. I don't find a definite hole in it anywhere. Can't see where I'm missing something, or overlooking the problem. Any ideas or suggestions from the collective think tank?

Jeff

[LH Drive]

Flex hose

I replaced the same things you did on my clutch. Everything new except for the flex hose. Not longer after I got my truck running I was driving down town Milwaukee when my clutch pedal went down to the floor. I started it in gear to get out of traffic. I looked at the only thing I did'nt replace, the flex hose, and it was also damp. I had some DOT 4 fluid in the tool box, filled the clutch MC and after bleeding the slave cylinder on the side of the road it still was not enough to disengage the transmission to shift into gear. So I started the engine in gear and got home. Called RN and a few days later the flex hose arrived, installed it and everything is fine now.

[badvibes]

LHD-

Yeah I'm suspecting the hose now also. I was supposed to head out for Colorado tomorrow. Looks like I'll be staying in town and wrenching instead.

Jeff

[gudjeon]

I had a problem with similar symptoms as you describe, but it wasn't the hydraulics. The diaphram spring of the 9.5" pressure plate broke as I pushed in the clutch. It made a slight snap as it did. It would no longer disengage like the system was full of air. Just something to keep in mind if the hose replacement doesn't work out.

Jon

[badvibes]

gudjeon-

Thanks for the info. I'll keep it in mind.

Jeff

[alaskajosh]

Not saying this is the problem but one thing I've had happen was the hose got like a hernia spot.. a little area that would blow up like a balloon on the side of the hose when I'd depress the pedal.

Of course I never saw it because I was in the cab pushing the clutch pedal at the time and it would only herniate under pressure. And no external leak.

So I'd bleed it and bleed it and it would always feel like there was air in there.
Well I finally figured it out, changed out the hose, happily ever after--

Does the clutch hydraulic also need that gerbil, or whatever, Lucas fluid? Or just the brakes?

[badvibes]

Does the clutch hydraulic also need that gerbil, or whatever, Lucas fluid? Or just the brakes?

I've got the one resorvoir style, whatever you put in supplies the clutch and the brakes. Been using DOT 3 for several years. Brakes are fine.

Jeff

[LaneRover]

You may also want to check the pins that connect the clutch hydraulics to the clutch itself. I had one of those that was really worn and it would just grind into gear, problem went away once I replaced that pin.

Brent

[badvibes]

You may also want to check the pins that connect the clutch hydraulics to the clutch itself. I had one of those that was really worn and it would just grind into gear, problem went away once I replaced that pin.

Brent

You talking the short linkage that is visible between the slave and the bellhousing? Or somewhere/something else?

Jeff

[LaneRover]

You talking the short linkage that is visible between the slave and the bellhousing? Or somewhere/something else?

Jeff

That is the exact spot.

[TeriAnn]

the jacketing around the rubber hose is coming apart and it seems damp, maybe it's weeping fluid.

I'm convinced that the single document least likely to be read and followed by Series owners is the Land Rover factory maintenance schedule.

EVERYONE seems to ignore it.

Land rover states that all the rubber in the hydraulic systems should be replaced every two years. Long before the outside of a hose starts sloughing off its outer rubber covering.


Sigh

[badvibes]

pardon my mediocrity...

Teriann-

My bad but I'd bet that this was the original hose. I know for sure I haven't replaced it in the almost 8 years I've owned the truck. I'd love to be the best Rover owner I could be but I know I won't do all rubber parts every 2 years. My bad. This particular hose is not solely rubber though, it's braided steel underneath what I think is a cloth type jacket. I'm sure the braided line is coated with something (rubber?) on the inside to seal it.

Jeff

PS- I think you have one of the nicest Rovers out there, a cool website, and I realize that there are Rover owners out there who really do take it to the next level. Here's to you.

[jp-]

Land rover states that all the rubber in the hydraulic systems should be replaced every two years. Long before the outside of a hose starts sloughing off its outer rubber covering.


Sigh

Every two years! No way. Maybe that was back when the quality of rubber wasn't so good. Now days it's no sweat for a hose to last 10 years or better.

Yeah, I guess if you're using natural rubber it might be wise. But with synthetics you will be fine.

Hell, my 109" clutch hose lasted 30 years and never leaked a drop. I replaced it just for fun. The metal brake lines were a little rusty though.

[singingcamel]

You may also want to check the pins that connect the clutch hydraulics to the clutch itself. I had one of those that was really worn and it would just grind into gear, problem went away once I replaced that pin.

Brent

fix the leak but look real hard at the clutch linkage!