Drive shaft to parking brake bolts stuck and rounding

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  • tmckeon88
    1st Gear
    • Jan 2007
    • 142

    Drive shaft to parking brake bolts stuck and rounding

    Hi everyone-

    I'm trying to install a new main drive shaft in my Series IIA 88 (1969) and I have the rear bolts off but I can't budge the front nuts, which attach to the parking brake assembly. I'm worried that I'm rounding them off. Does anyone have a clever trick they've had luck with? My next attempt will probably mean taking off the brake drum to see what I can access that way, but I fear I will have to resort to chiseling to try to break the nuts apart. Any suggestions are welcome! I've already hit it with Aerokroil and heat.

    thanks!


    Tom McKeon
    Tom
    1969 Series IIA 88"
    I like it because I understand how it works (mostly).
  • jimrr
    4th Gear
    • Dec 2010
    • 497

    #2
    make sure you're using 6 point wrenches or sockets. I don't recall but if removing the drum exposes the nut better then do that. and hit the top of the nut solid with a good hammer blow. use a quality 6 point wrench/socket to ensure you get even with the bottom of the nut even if you have to grind the socket flat. (no rounded portion)) if you can't get it out use a hot wrench and blow them out, that works best and takes only a minit. (you'll have to clean/tap the thread bore out. use copper coat antiseize when re-installing and get the original bolts, no substitute for drive lines !!

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    • siiirhd88
      3rd Gear
      • Oct 2006
      • 383

      #3
      IIRC the parking brake drum is held in place by the driveshaft flange and bolts so no chance of removing the drum first. As previously stated, use a 9/16" six point socket and align as straight as possible. Our host does supply a special extension / socket made specifically to access the prop shaft nuts. It is part number RNT141.

      Click image for larger version

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      • tmckeon88
        1st Gear
        • Jan 2007
        • 142

        #4
        Well, I got the out eventually-after heat, Kroil, PB Blaster and cursing. I had to resort of cutting the yoke apart that holds the u-joint in place, then hammering out the u-joint. With the old drive shaft off I could get a socket completely on each nut and turn them relatively easily. The threaded shafts were undamaged, so I could just use new nuts with plenty of anti seize and I hope that will make next time easier. I put in a new drive shaft anyway so it was no loss to destroy the other one.

        BTW the brake drum is held on with separate nuts on separate studs, but removing them didn't seem to make a difference. There's very little clearance around each drive shaft nut so I couldn't get a socket on them at all with the shaft in place, even when it was detached at the rear and could be moved around. I was trying to just drive out the u-joints and remove the shaft that way but the yoke bent from all the hammering and I ended up just cutting through it.

        It's a relief to have it all done.

        Tom
        Tom
        1969 Series IIA 88"
        I like it because I understand how it works (mostly).

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