Anyone replaced any light bulbs with LEDs? Any benefits? Heard of people doing this as they are suppose to last long, produce more light, use less energy...but i'm curious to see if anyone has done this with dash lighting, turn signals, etc?
Replacing Bulbs: LEDs?
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Replacing Bulbs: LEDs?
1971 Series IIa Hybrid: 2.5L MILSPEC 5-Main Bearing Engine|Turner Engineering Performance Head w/ oversized hardened steel valves & phase shift/increased lift cam|LT77 Tranny/LT230 Transfer Case|11mm Ignition Wires/Super Coil|Jacobs Ignition/Petronix Ignitor|D90 Axles|Galvy Frame|Old Man Emu Coils|Cust Rear/Side Fuel Tanks|Cust Drive Shafts|Tags: None -
I've thought about this too, but have not tried it. I think I've read that LEDs can cause a problem with older flasher units because they draw so little current, however. -
Originally posted by green 'n stinkyI've thought about this too, but have not tried it. I think I've read that LEDs can cause a problem with older flasher units because they draw so little current, however.'67 sort of station wagon (limestone), '65 gray hardtop, '63 blue Station Wagon, '64 limestone station wagon in piecesComment
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I would think that would normally be the case, but I believe I had read that it was possible that they could also just not blink at all. I wonder if adding a resistor to the circuit would solve the problem.
There's also a company advertising complete LED replacement light assemblies for series/defenders in the UK Rover magazines but as I recall they are very expensive and look a bit too modern for a series (in my opinion). I prefer NC Rover's idea of just replacing the bulbs.Comment
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They Work Great
When I rebuilt my series three I baught purpose built LED bulbs for my blinker lights and for the brake marker light. They Are Twice as bright as conventional lights, haven't failed even when the cover got broke off roading leaving them exposed to the harsh North-eastern salt roads and react faster then conventional bulbs. Testing them at .08Watts compared to the 4 watts the conventional bulbs ran has also helped make them work better with my standard flasher while towing the trailer which also uses them. I highly recomend getting a good set. But they are pricey, and as I've only had them in a year I cannot verify if there long term surviveability is justifying the price.....Comment
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I've been very very interested in LEDs just simply because I'm so geeky. Found a couple of replacements that look close but not being able to hold them in my hand, I can't be sure.
Search "Britax Model no. L14" or "Rubbolite Model no. 838LED" and you should see some in there. They look like the defender round style lights. If you search "LED" you'll find a bunch and there are others that might be a good match as well.
There is also these lights but they seem a little cheap...
I'm more of a build it kind of guy and after seeing a few short instructables like this one: (http://www.instructables.com/id/How-...ortable-light/) I figure I'd rather try my hand at making some of my own to fit into the original housing. I'll probably never do it though.
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Those bulb replacements are interesting. Are they really that much brighter than the originals? How many LED's are in them? Any idea what brightness the LED's are in them? There are LED lights and there are LED LIGHTS!
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As for the turn signals, you'll probably need to wire in an electronic flasher to handle the low power of LED's. You see a lot of boy racers with LED lights assemblies in their Honda's and it just looks cheesy when the flasher isn't timed right... if it works at all.
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I've just recently replaced my interior light with some under the counter "puck style" LED lights from home depot. I was sick of the old light shorting it's case against my interior.
They were about $15 and work a treat. You simply cut off the transformer which makes 12 volts and then wire them directly to your truck. So far so good and they are modular so I can add more as I need. They even come with a handy on off switch so I can remember to not turn them off much easier now.
Cheers,
TimComment
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Good deal. Well I guess I'm going to go for it and order some LED products. I'll give everyone the rundown on the results once I get everthing installed.1971 Series IIa Hybrid: 2.5L MILSPEC 5-Main Bearing Engine|Turner Engineering Performance Head w/ oversized hardened steel valves & phase shift/increased lift cam|LT77 Tranny/LT230 Transfer Case|11mm Ignition Wires/Super Coil|Jacobs Ignition/Petronix Ignitor|D90 Axles|Galvy Frame|Old Man Emu Coils|Cust Rear/Side Fuel Tanks|Cust Drive Shafts|Comment
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I've used the clear LED's in my rear military stop tail and rear fogs but I left the standard bulbs in the signals. The LED's are definitely brighter from the rear, but they lose the effect from the reflector in the lens assembly hence there is less light when viewed from a side angle. Overall a good swap.Comment
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LEDs for interior lighting
First, a warning: I am not a LR purist. Non-standard, non-genuine parts/replacements/upgrades are fine by me. I am installing LEDs throughout the interior of our 109--dash area, footwells middle row floor and rear/cargo floor plus inside tuffy box. Just completed running power leads and have not actually hooked any up (its been too cold to solder outdoors). I am not looking for "daylight" lighting, just enough to see. When it gets dark at 4:30 or so in the winter and there is NO light inside, even a little illumination is helpful.Comment
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Originally posted by redmondroverFirst, a warning: I am not a LR purist. Non-standard, non-genuine parts/replacements/upgrades are fine by me. I am installing LEDs throughout the interior of our 109--dash area, footwells middle row floor and rear/cargo floor plus inside tuffy box. Just completed running power leads and have not actually hooked any up (its been too cold to solder outdoors). I am not looking for "daylight" lighting, just enough to see. When it gets dark at 4:30 or so in the winter and there is NO light inside, even a little illumination is helpful.
thanks!1971 Series IIa Hybrid: 2.5L MILSPEC 5-Main Bearing Engine|Turner Engineering Performance Head w/ oversized hardened steel valves & phase shift/increased lift cam|LT77 Tranny/LT230 Transfer Case|11mm Ignition Wires/Super Coil|Jacobs Ignition/Petronix Ignitor|D90 Axles|Galvy Frame|Old Man Emu Coils|Cust Rear/Side Fuel Tanks|Cust Drive Shafts|Comment
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Has anyone done any of this yet?
Birmabright Brotherhood
Take the vow, join the brotherhood!
Clint Rankin - 1972 SIII SWBComment
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Hey Stacy,
Have you done this? If so...did you use the 3v. 5v. 12v, etc...?
Birmabright Brotherhood
Take the vow, join the brotherhood!
Clint Rankin - 1972 SIII SWBComment
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