Doing the Brakes - Easy Job?

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  • Bostonian1976
    5th Gear
    • Nov 2006
    • 750

    #16
    Originally posted by daveb
    my point exactly. young man, you ought to have one.
    I know

    Spending money on other things...need to get one
    '67 sort of station wagon (limestone), '65 gray hardtop, '63 blue Station Wagon, '64 limestone station wagon in pieces

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    • jp-
      5th Gear
      • Oct 2006
      • 981

      #17
      I find that the only thing I really need my manual for these days is torque specs, and sometimes those aren't even listed!
      61 II 109" Pickup (Restomod, 350 small block, TR4050)
      66 IIA 88" Station Wagon (sold)
      66 IIA 109" Pickup (Restomod, 5MGE, R380)
      67 IIA 109" NADA Wagon (sold)
      88, 2.5TD 110 RHD non-hicap pickup

      -I used to know everything there was to know about Land Rovers; then I joined the RN Bulletin Board.

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      • daveb
        5th Gear
        • Nov 2006
        • 513

        #18
        yes, but you don't post asking how to install the brake shoes. The series trucks are pretty simple and you don't need the manual once you've been around one for a while. I do consult mine when tearing into gearboxes and the like, they tend to be full of valuable information. (go figure)

        if there is no torque spec in the IIa guide I go and look in the SIII book. If there is none there, it just gets "tight"




        Originally posted by jp-
        I find that the only thing I really need my manual for these days is torque specs, and sometimes those aren't even listed!
        A Land Rover would never turn up to collect an Oscar. It'd be far too busy doing something important, somewhere, for someone."


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        • Bostonian1976
          5th Gear
          • Nov 2006
          • 750

          #19
          Originally posted by daveb
          yes, but you don't post asking how to install the brake shoes. The series trucks are pretty simple and you don't need the manual once you've been around one for a while.
          only been around one for 3 years. and since my Rover isn't kept near me, I need to plan out my repair time and want to be sure I've covered all bases before starting the job, since I don't have a garage etc that I can leisurely work on it. so - that's why you see me posting things like this....

          it's like those 'the more you know' commercials....
          '67 sort of station wagon (limestone), '65 gray hardtop, '63 blue Station Wagon, '64 limestone station wagon in pieces

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          • scott
            Overdrive
            • Oct 2006
            • 1226

            #20
            a bleeding tip. i use a really long peice of clear tubing. long enough to go from the right rear bleeder to the resevior. a big binder type paper clip to hold the resevior end on so the it stays submerged. open the bleeder valve, grab a beer, and just sit there pumping 'til no more bubbles pass by.
            '64 Series IIA 88 Canvas Tilt
            '68 Series IIA RHD Ambulance
            '76 Spitfire 1500
            '07 LR3 (Series Recovery Vehicle)

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            • Bostonian1976
              5th Gear
              • Nov 2006
              • 750

              #21
              ok got them all pulled apart - drums are like new, plenty of pad left on the shoes.

              Driver's side brake was full of oil and goop....

              passenger's completely dry

              could this good be causing a 'shudder' that is pretty severe that sounds like metal on metal brakes almost when the brakes are applied (2nd pump)?

              and what seal do I need for the hub to prevent further leakage into the brake? seems like an inner seal..
              Last edited by Bostonian1976; 05-04-2008, 10:07 AM.
              '67 sort of station wagon (limestone), '65 gray hardtop, '63 blue Station Wagon, '64 limestone station wagon in pieces

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              • pvkd
                1st Gear
                • Jan 2007
                • 118

                #22
                You need a hub seal and likely a new Race. The only way you know is when you pull the hub off you can inspect the race on the spindle and see if it has a small groove in it (a flash light held at a angle can help you see this).

                You may as well order a seal kit fro our hosts that way you will have the lock washer and felt seal.
                1971 109 Safari Wagon (1 ton chassis)
                1995 LWB Range Rover Classic
                1997 Defender 90 (repaired at last)
                2001 P38A Range Rover

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                • Jim-ME
                  Overdrive
                  • Oct 2006
                  • 1379

                  #23
                  Make sure your breather on your axle is clear. It should rattle. If it doesn't I've had good luck cleaning them out with Gun Scrubber or brake cleaner. Also make sure to hole in the axle tube is clear or you will just blow another seal.
                  Jim

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                  • Bostonian1976
                    5th Gear
                    • Nov 2006
                    • 750

                    #24
                    meh - note to self: don't hold the brake shoe away from the wheel cylinder for too long or the little flathead piece pops out, followed by the rubber piece that seals the brake system. I caught it just in time, but still think I got a little air in the system....
                    '67 sort of station wagon (limestone), '65 gray hardtop, '63 blue Station Wagon, '64 limestone station wagon in pieces

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                    • Donnie
                      2nd Gear
                      • Apr 2007
                      • 287

                      #25
                      Originally posted by scott
                      a bleeding tip. i use a really long peice of clear tubing. long enough to go from the right rear bleeder to the resevior. a big binder type paper clip to hold the resevior end on so the it stays submerged. open the bleeder valve, grab a beer, and just sit there pumping 'til no more bubbles pass by.
                      While we are speaking of bleeding brakes...............I'd like to get a grip on the person that decided that 2 wheel cyls. per wheel was a better design, especially since the bleeder is on the BOTTOM cyl>>>>>>>anyone???
                      I spent most of my money on women & cars, the rest of it I just wasted.......

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                      • yorker
                        Overdrive
                        • Nov 2006
                        • 1635

                        #26
                        Originally posted by Donnie
                        While we are speaking of bleeding brakes...............I'd like to get a grip on the person that decided that 2 wheel cyls. per wheel was a better design, especially since the bleeder is on the BOTTOM cyl>>>>>>>anyone???
                        swap them around:
                        There was a great post sometime ago detailing the clamping down of cylinders and a process to bleed them nicely. I cannot find this post and was hopin


                        Through the years I've read alot of posts on the horrors of 109 brake bleeding but had no experience in the matter. I just had the opportunity to go o
                        1965 SIIa 88",1975 Ex-MOD 109/Ambulance, 1989 RRC, blah, blah, blah...

                        Land Rover UK Forums

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                        • thixon
                          5th Gear
                          • Jul 2007
                          • 909

                          #27
                          Originally posted by yorker
                          swap them around:
                          There was a great post sometime ago detailing the clamping down of cylinders and a process to bleed them nicely. I cannot find this post and was hopin


                          http://gunsandrovers.yuku.com/topic/1985
                          Thanks Yorker,

                          that's the difference I was trying to remember early in the this thread. I've never owned a 109, but helped a guy near me do his brakes once years ago. All I remembered was that something about it pissed me off.

                          Bostonian,
                          If you don't already have one, go get and easy-bleed from NAPA/autozone/O'reilys etc. You may not be cracking open the system, but if you do, it will make it easier. Try to find the kind that uses the tire valve stem to pressurize the fluid canister. You can make one out of a garden sprayer, but thats another thread.

                          I like Jasons' method of bleeding mentioned earlier. The only danger is leaving small bubles in the system that you don't see, and recirculating them to into the system. Doesn't mean I havn't done it his way a million times, just something to be aware of.

                          You don't need to buy a manual, see my post from a while back.
                          Travis
                          '66 IIa 88

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