How to turn a 10 min job into a 1/2 day project...

[SafeAirOne]

While changing the exhaust gasket between the exhaust manifold and downpipe, I broke off one of the 3 bolts holding the downpipe on the manifold. Two of the boltholes are accessable and can be drilled out from the topside of the engine, the third is directly under the manifold and must be accessed from below with a 2-foot long drill bit (impossible, in other words). Guess which one broke off?

Before I pull the manifold(s) off and drill out the broken bolt, I figured I'd ask if anyone had any other secret, easier method or trick that would require a minimum amount of profanity-screaming on my part...

Now to find a 2.5 diesel intake/exhaust manifold gasket...

[thixon]

Can you hit it using a crowsfoot on the end of an extension?

[SafeAirOne]

Can you hit it using a crowsfoot on the end of an extension?

No---The bolt goes UP through the pipe flange and into the exhaust manifold. The bolt is broken off just below the surface of the hole on the bottom side of the manifold.

I'm just trying to avoid having to take the whole manifold off and drill out the broken bolt.

On a good note, Rovers North has the manifold-to-block gaskets for a 2.5 diesel in stock. Despite the thrashing Les has taken here lately regarding RN prices, the gasket is cheaper than I expected--About $12. 11 and some change, I think. Too bad the shipping is about $8...

[dunerunner]

Too bad RN can't put it between two pieces of cardboard in an envelope and mail it to you. How about a photo mailer, anything the doesn't soak you for $8 shipping.

[LaneRover]

It takes a steady hand but I have drilled out that bolt from underneath before. I think that I may have worked a drill up closer but I may have used a long extension (don't really remember) I took my time and pretty continuously double checked that I had the angle right. Got it drilled out enough, used an extractor to get the rest of it out and then used a tap and die set to clean out the threads.

Goggles are of course necessary for this as I have found that my eyes don't really like having shiny metal bits flicked in them.

Brent

[SafeAirOne]

It takes a steady hand but I have drilled out that bolt from underneath before.

I've considered this route. I agree that it's doable--probably only moderate amount of swearing involved, too. I'm a bit embarrassed to say this, but my problem with this method is with the chasis rails and engine. Well, to be more specific, the amount of oil and gunk coating my engine and chasis rail in that particular area. If I were to drill it out in place, from the bottom, I'd be up to my biceps in thick black filth. Not a new experience for me, but the older I get, the cleaner I attempt to stay. The soot that gets suspended in these diesel detergent oils is like india ink, except that india ink washes off your skin easier!

I was just hoping someone had some clever and easy way of extracting the broken-off bolt out without going through the bottom or taking off the manifolds.

Perhaps this is my punishment for trying to "squeeze" the exhaust leak off in the first place. I foolishly torqued the heck out of this bolt a few weeks ago in a rediculous attempt to seal the surfaces. I finally broke down and got the $4 exhaust gasket today and promptly broke off that over-stressed bolt in attempting to install the gasket.

[LaneRover]

only moderate amount of swearing involved

I call it Rover induced Tourette's!

It is very closely related to Plumbing Tourette's, Just smashed my thumb with a hammer Tourrette's, I guess that is a live wire Tourette's and the I hate driving in LA traffic Tourette's.

Brent

[greenmeanie]

IF the broken of surface of the stud is flush or just below the surface of the manifold you could attempt to weld a nut to it by placing the wire down the inside thread of the nut. Of course, to do this, you still have to lie under the truck and now you have to endure weld spatter burns. That always makes for a fun evening.

I know it's a very long shot as to whether it would work but if youare determined not to remove the manifolds a little pain will remind you about proper torquing in the future.

Cheers
Gregor

[scott]

i made pretty much the same mistake, i snapped the stud while tightening it up. i patiently drill it out while laying on my back. garf the thred so i run a tap in the freak'n hole and the tap snaps. so screw it i says and throw a "c" clamp on it. about 6 months later i'm having a custom exhaust put in and the exhaust guy was able to plasma cut the tap out. i have no idea what size studs are in ther now or even if all three are the same but it's tight and no leak and from where i sit i can't see it

[SafeAirOne]

IF the broken of surface of the stud is flush or just below the surface of the manifold you could attempt to weld a nut to it by placing the wire down the inside thread of the nut.

That's a fine idea! You're right that it'd be easier to pull the manifold off (I'll be doing that tomorrow), but I'm certainly going to add this to my "bag of tricks." It's a great idea in my humble opinion .

Thanks!

[thixon]

Sorry,

Did'nt read your post well the first time. Missed that it was broken off (lack of sleep). I was up the night before talking to my guys in Taiwan.

Greenmeanies advice is spot on. The only thing I'll add is that it can be done with a bolt, if its broken off too far below the surface for a nut. Obviously it has to be a smaller bolt than the one broken, and you have to be very careful when you weld. Good news is, I'm the Sh(t(est welder of all time, and I've pulled it of many times. Much better option than drilling

Good luck,

[adkrover]

I don't personally own one of these tools because it is just too homowner/weekend warrior ish for me but try a Dremel tool. With the right carbide burr or grinder gead, you could most likely dig enough of it out to get an easy out in there or tap new threads. Another option that might be better than laying under the truck is to get a right angle drill and do it from above. Sometimes they are available in small cordless models but most commonly they are called electricians drills for getting into framing and other tight spots. Either purchase one or rent one.

If you're looking for the cheeky answer, try cleaning your engine bay first or flip the entire truck over and stand on top of it with the 2' extension bit. If you do decide to pull the manifold, go easy on those bolts or the 10 minute job will soon be a three day job.

[JSBriggs]

Use plenty of copper antiseize when you reassemble.

-Jeff

[SafeAirOne]

...Another option that might be better than laying under the truck is to get a right angle drill and do it from above...

That's the first thing I thought of as I was lying under the truck with the broken bolt in my hand. Unfortunately there's about 3/4 of an inch between the top of the flange and the bottom of the manifold exhaust collector--Not enough room

If you're looking for the cheeky answer, try cleaning your engine bay first... If you do decide to pull the manifold, go easy on those bolts or the 10 minute job will soon be a three day job.

The dusty oily gunk attached to the forward chassis seems to be better than waxoyl in preserving the steel. I almost wish my entire chassis was covered in it

Good advise--I will definitely take it easy on those studs. My wife tells me that the manifold gasket arrived today. Boy, it's nice living next-UPS-day away from Rovers North! I'll TRY to keep this a 2-hour project tomorrow. I'll swing out to the parts store and get some hi-temp anti-seize tomorrow. (thanks for reminding me, Jeff).