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Oh, interesting.
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Sounds like you are talking about the US swivel type pintle hooks, they protrude through a rear crossmember and don't mount flush like the Dixon Bate or whoever makes the Brit army ones. The Brit ones are pricey, once in a while you might score one for a song though if you ask around or keep a close eye on ebay.Originally posted by scottComment
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I can't see your photos from work but if your hitch is like this one below it was used on vehicles with the military rear crossmember. The lightweights (at least mine has them) and 101s have holes for mounting in the front also.
you can get them here but they're pricey:
Stacy
Motta S.A. ItalyComment
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scott here is one, shipping might be a bitch though:
for comparison's sake here is the US swivel type:
I think US trailers- at least the smaller ones have always had lunettes that swiveled so the smaller pintles didn't require that capability, larger lpintle hooks on US Army vehicles had that ability, some were spring loaded too I think.
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even this one would require cutt'n the cross memberOriginally posted by yorker'64 Series IIA 88 Canvas Tilt
'68 Series IIA RHD Ambulance
'76 Spitfire 1500
'07 LR3 (Series Recovery Vehicle)Comment
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Yes that was why I posted it for illustrative purposes for those who didn't know what you were talking about in regard to the US swivel type pintle hooks, the ebay.uk link was one for you to potentially purchase.Originally posted by scottComment
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I have been busy with other things due to the Holidays, but...
...my collection of restored and ready-to-go bits & pieces is getting larger:
...and I was missing a seat bracket, so I made a new one:
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My seat box is now all set to go back on the vehicle, although who knows when that will be. Originally, I was going to just use the seat box ass'y as-is, but I decided to remove the seat rails, sandblast them, prime & paint them, then install with all new Grade 5 hardware.
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I see you've taken over the house, nice
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I'd love to see how you reattach the lower sides. Mine are a combo of bolts, rivets and I think some tig work... Nothing lines up the way it should.Comment
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^^ The lower sides of the rear tub, right in front of the rear tires? If so, I'm not planning on removing them from the tub. They are riveted, bolted, spot welded and welded - so I'm not touching them.
By the way, a few nice Lightweight parts arrived today from TLR:
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<sigh> So that is what the tunnel cover is supposed to look like... before you bend it around the shin burner four or five times.Originally posted by jac04
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when you reinstall the inner fenders or mud/splash guards, use a nut or some washers to space the bottom of the shield out 1/4 of and inch from the bulk head, this allows anything trapped in there to escape and still protects the bulkhead. I just saw the picture on the first page or so of the bulkhead. the project looks great, keep up the good work.Comment
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^^Sure will - I've used the splash guard spacers on all my past rovers.
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The fuel valve is all rebuilt & ready to go. I have all new fuel lines as well.
Before:
After:
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