Got My Lightweight!! Stay Tuned for Project Updates and Plenty of Questions!

[jac04]

The Allmakes slave is aluminum and moves very freely.
I haven't had a chance to change out the slave yet, but my chirping noise has been absent for a little while. Last thing I did was lube the end of the pushrod that contacts the clutch release fork. That may have helped a little, but I still need to make the slave 'correct'.

[amcordo]

Drove it down to Lake Cumberland, KY for a boat trip. I had so many neck breakers staring at it on the way down made me feel special. Only when I stopped at a red light did I realize they were staring at the underside where hot oil was pouring onto the exhaust just behind the manifold. Flaming rover anyone?

Lessons learned:
- VERY TIGHT is the level of wrenching required to safely install a oil PSI gauge.
- NEVER install an exhaust system under the places oil is most likely rain from

[yorker]

- NEVER install an exhaust system under the places oil is most likely rain from

Funny how Land Rover never got that....

[luckyjoe]

Funny how Land Rover never got that....

'Cause LR were 007 DB5 fans....

[SafeAirOne]

NEVER install an exhaust system under the places oil is most likely rain from

That doesn't leave many places to put an exhaust system in a Rover. Are you suggesting an exhaust system that goes through the bonnet and over the truck?

[scott]

...suggesting an exhaust system that goes through the bonnet and over the truck?

this would only work 'til ya roll it

[jac04]

Anyone have any experience with the military hazard/signal light relay as used on the Lightweight?

Every once in a while, my signals don't work - no clicking from the relay for either RH or LH. If I turn on the hazards, it usually starts working. Alternately, as soon as I touch the plug on the relay, the signal lights start to work. I'll double-check all my connections. I just hate to relace that relay if I don't have to - it's very expensive.

[scott]

it the relay anchored? is the anchor point also the ground? is the ground good?

[jac04]

^Yes, yes, and yes (should be). The relay is mounted to the bulkhead. I was very careful to clean the paint from around one of the mounting bolts - the one used as a mounting point for the ground wire.
Thinking about it, the bulkhead checks out as grounded when using a multimeter (continuity to the negative side of the battery). But, I guess I could always be absolutely sure about the ground and run a dedicated ground wire from the negative battery side to the relay ground wire. Would only take a few minutes and is probably worthwhile anyway since the bulkhead is used as a ground for the instruments.

[Les Parker]

Relay number

What's the Lucas number on your relay, I may have one avail...

[mongoswede]

That doesn't leave many places to put an exhaust system in a Rover. Are you suggesting an exhaust system that goes through the bonnet and over the truck?

I thought about doing this actually. You could integrate it around an external roll cage so that it would have some protection in case of a roll. Certainely helps reduce the chances of it tear off on a rock or stump.

[jac04]

Fixed the Relay!

What's the Lucas number on your relay, I may have one avail...

Les- It's not a Lucas relay. It's the big "box" hazard/flasher relay - 6 pin. Mine is a Flag, but Hella makes one as well. Part number is 579373.

Anyhow, I was actually able to fix mine. Very proud of myself. Like any good Mechanical Engineer, I always want to take something apart to find out why it isn't working, and why should this relay be any different? Well, maybe because I've forgotten most of what I learned ages ago in my EE classes. Back to the story....So, I pulled the guts out of it, which was very easy. Turns out that this thing is not your average flasher unit that utilizes a bimetallic strip. This thing has a bunch of resistors, diodes, some 3-legged things I couldn't identify, 2 capacitors, and a regular type relay (electromagnet coil) inside, all mounted to a circuit board. Apparently, all that electrical stuff tells the relay when to make & break. Turns out the relay was failing closed for some reason. I could tap on the circuit board to get it working again. Then I noticed a tiny spark on the circuit board every time it would either quit working or start working. It was a poor solder connection. I carefully re-soldered it and it seems to work fine. We'll see how it holds up.

[mrdoiron]

Les- It's not a Lucas relay. It's the big "box" hazard/flasher relay - 6 pin. Mine is a Flag, but Hella makes one as well. Part number is 579373.

Anyhow, I was actually able to fix mine. Very proud of myself. Like any good Mechanical Engineer, I always want to take something apart to find out why it isn't working, and why should this relay be any different? Well, maybe because I've forgotten most of what I learned ages ago in my EE classes. Back to the story....So, I pulled the guts out of it, which was very easy. Turns out that this thing is not your average flasher unit that utilizes a bimetallic strip. This thing has a bunch of resistors, diodes, some 3-legged things I couldn't identify, 2 capacitors, and a regular type relay (electromagnet coil) inside, all mounted to a circuit board. Apparently, all that electrical stuff tells the relay when to make & break. Turns out the relay was failing closed for some reason. I could tap on the circuit board to get it working again. Then I noticed a tiny spark on the circuit board every time it would either quit working or start working. It was a poor solder connection. I carefully re-soldered it and it seems to work fine. We'll see how it holds up.

great DNA work Jeff,
every now and again it's nice to see that Eng brainwashing training come in handy... ERTW.

mike

[Les Parker]

Yes, we keep the Flag version in stock.
It, unlike the original, will work on 12 or 24 volt applications.

Number is PLH625 Flasher unit, sorry currently nil stock , though turn round time is 10-14 days.

[Andrew IIA]

That doesn't leave many places to put an exhaust system in a Rover. Are you suggesting an exhaust system that goes through the bonnet and over the truck?

I saw a version of this set up a few years ago (on a 109 i think): raised air intake pipe came down along one side of the windshield frame and exhaust went up the opposite side.