So if I understand correctly, you can stick spade terminals into the original headlight plug to save having to run new wires to the switch and the dimmer switch?
Jim
That is correct. Your switches (headlight and dimmer) use the origional wireing to power the relay. The ammount of power neede to for this is minimal (much less that powering teh bulbs). Unless you existing wiring is bad, I would run spades into the stock headlight plug.
You just unplug the original plugs from the lights and leave them hanging, you don't remove the stock wiring. This is a shortcut to wiring back to the switch. This way, you don't have to pull the dash to drop in the kit.
That's going to be the real fun part plus I'm going to add a 6 fuse fuse block at the same time for expansion. I'll post pictures when I get it done.
Jim
painless makes a harness just like that with waterproof hella relays. You don't have to modify stock wiring and can remove it later if you like. I mounted the relays on the radiator support next to the battery.
Am I just being cheap or are 4 relays for headlights a little extreme? I can see one relay for low beams and one for high beams but are 4 that much better. Than way I will have a relay for my to be purchased worklight and a relay for the Hella fogs I plan to add down the road as well.
Jim
Well Power = Amps X Volts = basic electric theory. You have a 12V system which in theory could put out as much as 14.4V. For this we'll say you'll get 12.5V at the relay with a healthy system. Now for arguements sake lets say you are using 60W bulbs as I can't remember any real values right now. That = 4.8 Amps per bulb. For giggles lets say you went with 100W bulbs you would get almost 8 Amps per bulb. With 2 bulbs that means you're pulling a grand total of 16 Amps.
If you purchased te 30 A relays shown above you should have plenty of margin to run both bulbs of a single relay.
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