Rivets.

[TedW]

I plan to replace some galvanized capping and would like to use the correct domed rivets where previously installed. Question: How are they installed? What special tools are needed? Am I nuts not to just use pop rivets all-around? I await sage advice from the group.

[Bertha]

They are definitely worth putting on for that oem look, however it will require some investment on your part. You will need an air chisel tool with the proper domed head attachment(actually called a button head rivet), a buck(metal block behind it) and a way to regulate the air pressurre so you dont do a number on your aluminum/paint. I have a ton of the proper rivets to do the job(our hosts sell them as well), however you will need to buy the tools yourself. If you lived closer, you could have come over for a day and work on it at my place.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Ingersoll-Rand-Air-Hammer-Chisel-Model-772-Extras-NIB_W0QQitemZ380092474967QQihZ025QQcategoryZ31482QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

and

http://www.aircraft-tool.com/

for the tool below

[thixon]

Bertha is dead on. I'm only chiming in to agree, and state again that you need to be careful. Practice a few on some test pieces. If the air hammer gets away from you, you can mess up your paint/panel.

Good luck!

[sailtech]

Roverhaul.com recommends:

http://www.bigflatsrivet.com/

[BGGB]

i used bigflatrivets. they have everything you need besides a air chisle. you will need to get the rivets and the bucking bar to hold onto the head... just air chisel the back and your good. its easiest to do with two people. Good Luck

[crankin]

I am currently doing mine right now. Big Flats is who I went with and he is more then helpful.

The only advice I can give is to make sure that you have the right length of rivet and to make sure that you keep the air hammer straight or the rivet will bend a little on you. I run my psi at around 35-40.

I have noticed that I can get about 4-5 mess ups on the same hole before the aluminum starts to really show signs from the stress.

Also, get you some ear muffs!

[TedW]

Thank you all for your advice!

I have purchased the air hammer and the requisite items from Big Flats Rivets. I am now, as they say, ready to rumble, and will post pics of my handiwork when finished - should be interesting!

Ted

[SafeAirOne]

I have purchased the air hammer and the requisite items from Big Flats Rivets. I am now, as they say, ready to rumble, and will post pics of my handiwork when finished - should be interesting!

Ted

Just be careful if you purchased an air chisel and not a riveting hammer. The air chisel is not designed with riventing in mind and does not have the finesse of a riveting hammer. Probably won't matter too much if it gets away from you and dings the galv capping, but it'll do a job on aluminum.

[Bertha]

Just be careful if you purchased an air chisel and not a riveting hammer. The air chisel is not designed with riventing in mind and does not have the finesse of a riveting hammer. Probably won't matter to much if it gets away from you and dings the galv capping, but it'll do a job on aluminum.

Good point. The proper hammer will allow you to "throttle" the air, however it may be a steep investment for someone who is just using it for 1 project. As a side note and fwiw, the round head rivet that "big flats" sells and the one Mike used in Roverhaul is technically not the correct head that Rover used. Rover actually used a button head. If you order the correct rivet from our host and compare it to the "big flats" round head, you will see the difference, however I am sure most people couldn't tell the difference.

[109 Pretender]

Ted, everyone has given vgood advice above - just want to add that one of the changes Rover made from SIIA to SIII was to start using blind rivets in place of hand bucked rivets in many locations - of course Defenders did away w/all solid rivets I believe. Solid rivets come in 3 grades (dead soft, intermediate, and full hard). They are identified by a dimple system on the head. (No dimple for dead soft, 1 dimple for intermed. and the full hard are also sometimes called "freezer rivets" because they achieve full temper at room temp.) You want dead soft or intermediate. For blind rivets - only use closed bottom style like Rover uses. Best price I have ever found on these was from Pegasus Racing - identical to Rover factory rivet.
Like everyone said - practice on scrap first and get someone to back up the rivet on the hard to reach places. Air chisel WILL work OK if you adjust the air pressure down (better to have air rivet gun). Practice will make you get the feel for it - then it's easy.

cheers!

[jp-]

No need for an air gun. I did all mine by hand, fairly simple really.

[TedW]

No need for an air gun. I did all mine by hand, fairly simple really.

jp: Any special technique or tools? I'd like to know how you do it.

Bertha: I see the difference between the genuine and the BFR rivets. Almost imperceptible.

109 Pretender: You are right about the sealed blind rivets. I've used them exclusively for years. Thanks for the tip on Pegasus Racing - awesome price!

SafeairOne: I purchased the air hammer referenced by Bertha earlier in the post - an Ingersoll Rand 772. I got a decent price relative to retail (I think). Now, lots of practice before I do the job!

Thanks to all for your advice. I promise to post pics.

[crankin]

So, I purchased some closed end rivets from Pegasus...How in the heck do you get the nail to break free?

I am using a regular hand rivet on these guys and they just won't break. I am also thinking about purchasing a pneumatic riveter...Anyone suggest one that works great?

[jp-]

Ted,

Sorry for the delay, been away from the boards for awhile. I bought a rivet tool that just fits over the head of the rivet and weighs several pounds. It might be for an air gun, but I just use it by hand. I hold pressure on the head of the rivet with the heavy tool (shaped for the rivet head) and I make sure that I have no gaps in the sheet metal that I am going to rivet (if there are gaps I use a small clamp to first draw the metal tight) then it's just a matter of hammering the back of the rivet to a nice mushroom shape. Very easy to do and I've had great results. I do believe that I am using the "dead soft" rivets though.

[Dav1550]

I make sure that I have no gaps in the sheet metal that I am going to rivet (if there are gaps I use a small clamp to first draw the metal tight)

# 10 stove bolts work well for mounting and holding the parts, cappings and such up in place. Then afterwards it's just a matter of following behind and replacing the bolts with a rivet....