Footwell Replacement

[JackIIA]

Self-tapping screws. what a great idea. i can't believe that never entered my mind when I did mine. I still like the welding approach. But the screws are an excellent first step to check fit I would think. And as poster noted, may save you the pain of building a jig, as I did.

[daveb]

I also use self tappers to hold panels together where clamping is impractical or impossible. Tack the parts together, then remove the screws and fill the hole with weld.

Self-tapping screws. what a great idea. i can't believe that never entered my mind when I did mine. I still like the welding approach. But the screws are an excellent first step to check fit I would think. And as poster noted, may save you the pain of building a jig, as I did.

[JackIIA]

Did you use a sheet of copper or something as backing for the hole created by the screws? I'd think you'd just blow through them. Still, way to go. Tried to attach a shot of the jig I built. But the forum has such a ridiculously small file size I couldn't do it. In any event, I was not impressed with the jig, so moot. Ike Goss has a much better and simpler one on his site.

[Leslie]

I screwed mine together w/ self-tappers, welded it up, pulled the screws and then tagged the screw-holes w/ the welder to close them up, too.

One of the problems I would have had if I'd not had a good coach on this would have been either leaving too much of the existing bulkhead (I was originally going to cut out just some smaller areas, then use a smaller patch-size cut from the replacement footwells: it's much better to cut out more of the old footwell, and have a cleaner install), or, take too much (you need enough of the surrounding areas cleaned up, but still there, to which to weld the replacement footwell...).

I definitely would study hard on Ike's pages.....

[thixon]

JackIIA,

The technique is called a rosette weld. Some guys call it a plug weld. Google rosette, and you should find some info. No backer needed, but you'rhe right, if you hold the torch on too long the puddle will drop through. Conversely, if you don't hold it long enough you don't get propper penetration.

The jig on Ikes site is essentially an angle iron rectangle that fits around the feet of the bulkhead to gauge the spacing. You can either measure using the frame of your truck as a guide, or build the bulkhead on the truck as I describe. I've done it both ways, and don't like either any better than the other.

Ikes site is extremely helpful, and I'd recommend it to anyone who's never done a bulkhead rebuild before. That being said, it ain't rocket science. My IIa needed a full rework from the dash down. This included both door posts, footwells, center dog house, fabbing of new flanges above footwells, fabbing of new center stiffener, etc. All this took me one solid weekend (not including removal and teardown which was done the previous weekend). Personally, if its a low end repair, I'd rather scrap the whole damn bottom of the bulhead, and replace with new. I can finish the project fasther than trying to patch here and there.

While I do have experience restoring cars, I am not a pro by any means. There's plenty of support on this board. In my opinion, a rover bulkhead is a great first project for someone who wants to learn to do this type of work.

Let the arrows fly gentlemen!

[JackIIA]

Travis,

I second you on Ike's site. Unfortunately I found it after doing my own bulkhead and after I went by some grainy photos from ECR (hence my jig which is a p*** poor replica in my mind). I think you are not giving the skill required enough credit. If folks need to know to drill out welds for instance (rather than just cutting with a high speed wheel) there is the first problem. Poor measuring the second (really the first I guess), repro parts that don't fit exactly, and the list goes on. Growing up, I worked in the family business (repair), and much of what I learned there was attributed to 'common sense' from my grandfather and uncles. Which isn't to denigrate it. But alot of it really isn't. It's time and skill, and instruction. I agree this site, and others like it are great sources. Yeah, I'm familiar with plug welds. I guess what I meant was if the screw is driven through both surfaces, you have a hole, rather than a surface for a plug weld. Small point. Thinking later, I of course realized you could leave the damn thing in and just spot weld and then drill out. I'm writing too much! Thanks for the ideas. Good stuff.

[daveb]

easy to close up small through-holes with the mig machine. I only use a screw where really neccesary, not every place there is a spot weld!

Travis,

I guess what I meant was if the screw is driven through both surfaces, you have a hole, rather than a surface for a plug weld. Small point. Thinking later, I of course realized you could leave the damn thing in and just spot weld and then drill out. I'm writing too much! Thanks for the ideas. Good stuff.

[kwd509]

footwells-I am having trouble finding the spot welds.

After taking a break for winter weather I am now beginning to consider drilling out the aforementioned spot welds in the footwells. Once I find one, as a starting point, is there a convention as to placement of these welds......thus allowing me to work my way around in finding them?

Would prefer to remove the panels this way, then having them simply cut out w plasma cutter.

[SafeAirOne]

Being maufactured well before robotics, these were hand welded, so the spot welds aren't in any predictable location other than along the footwell tabs.

Just look for the slight round surface distortions indicating the spot weld locations.