Bed Repair

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  • thixon
    5th Gear
    • Jul 2007
    • 909

    Bed Repair

    Well,

    I've started my bed repair. I'll try to continue posting to this thread as I progress. Thus far, I've removed the bed floor. I'll have to post pics of that tomorrow, as I left them on my work computer.

    Tonight, I busted out the TIG, and welded patches into my corroded rear bottom section (where the tabs to the frame bolt on). I have'nt ground anything yet, and you'll notice that the tabs extend further than the bottom of the original piece. I wanted to make sure I had a little extra metal to pull over at the end of the weld. These photos stink, but you'll get the idea.

    This project started off as an attempt to just rivet new metal into place, and go. As you can see, I ended up having to plug the holes on either side of the patchs where the rivets were. (I'll post pics of the rivet attempt tomorrow).

    My plan is to flap disc everything smooth, and then weld beads on the back sides, that I won't grind smooth.
    Last edited by thixon; 09-08-2009, 09:01 AM.
    Travis
    '66 IIa 88
  • Mercedesrover
    3rd Gear
    • Oct 2006
    • 343

    #2
    I just did the tub over on my 109 last year. Here's a link to the section of a thread dealing with all that. Big job but worth the effort.
    www.seriestrek.com

    Comment

    • thixon
      5th Gear
      • Jul 2007
      • 909

      #3
      Thanks Jim. I know the thread well. Great post.

      For the most part, I'll be headed in the same direction. I may use alum c channel, riveted down the center for the stiffeners. If I remember right, you used two peices of angle back to back for your stiffeners. Since you've alread done this, any reason I should stay away from the c channel?

      I also may end up replacing a body panel. One is pretty banged up, but I"m gonna give it a go with the slapper, hammer, and dolly so we'll see.

      Thanks,
      Travis
      '66 IIa 88

      Comment

      • thixon
        5th Gear
        • Jul 2007
        • 909

        #4
        Okay,

        Here are more pics. Here you can see my start at a rivet type repair on the section I welded last night.

        You will also see the holes in the bed floor, and the bed floor removed.

        To get the bed floor out, I started drilling spot welds, then came to my senses. I got out the air hammer and chisel, and split the spot welds apart. A word of warning. If you try the air hammer method, you will bend up the flange that the perimeter of the new bed floor will mount to. If you aren't comfortable with beating this back flat, then stick to drilling out the spot welds.

        My mission for tonight will be to grind, bump, and hammer my welding job flat on the rear of the bed. Wish me luck.
        Last edited by thixon; 09-08-2009, 09:01 AM.
        Travis
        '66 IIa 88

        Comment

        • thixon
          5th Gear
          • Jul 2007
          • 909

          #5
          more photos

          Bed floor holes, and new floor cut from 4x10 sheet.
          Last edited by thixon; 09-08-2009, 09:01 AM.
          Travis
          '66 IIa 88

          Comment

          • jac04
            Overdrive
            • Feb 2007
            • 1884

            #6
            Originally posted by thixon
            Wish me luck.
            Good Luck! I doubt you will need it - skill usually negates the need for luck.

            Comment

            • NickDawson
              5th Gear
              • Apr 2009
              • 707

              #7
              Originally posted by jac04
              Good Luck! I doubt you will need it - skill usually negates the need for luck.
              Thanks for sharing the progress - helping me decide what to do about mine

              Comment

              • LaneRover
                Overdrive
                • Oct 2006
                • 1743

                #8
                Originally posted by jac04
                Good Luck! I doubt you will need it - skill usually negates the need for luck.
                Skill never negates the need for luck.

                Luck though can negate the need for skill.

                Given the choice between skill and being lucky I will always choose lucky.
                1958 107 SW - Sold to a better home
                1965 109 SW - nearly running well
                1966 88 SW - running but needing attention
                1969 109 P-UP

                http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...2&l=64cfe23aa2

                Comment

                • jac04
                  Overdrive
                  • Feb 2007
                  • 1884

                  #9
                  Originally posted by LaneRover
                  Skill never negates the need for luck.

                  Luck though can negate the need for skill.

                  Given the choice between skill and being lucky I will always choose lucky.
                  ...and to think that I've been relying on my skills for all these years. Maybe I've just been unlucky.

                  Comment

                  • LaneRover
                    Overdrive
                    • Oct 2006
                    • 1743

                    #10
                    Originally posted by jac04
                    ...and to think that I've been relying on my skills for all these years. Maybe I've just been unlucky.
                    Could be!

                    Though I kind of said the bit about skill and luck in jest I think that there is a bit of truth to it.

                    You can be the most skilled photographer in the world but never be in exactly the right spot at the right time. That famous shot of Ali in the boxing ring in Lewiston standing over Liston and taunting him was the result of that photog getting shunned by the other press folks and being forced to sit on the other side of the ring.



                    Of course the best situation is to be very skilled AND lucky - but choosing between the two, I'll choose luck.
                    1958 107 SW - Sold to a better home
                    1965 109 SW - nearly running well
                    1966 88 SW - running but needing attention
                    1969 109 P-UP

                    http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...2&l=64cfe23aa2

                    Comment

                    • Bertha
                      3rd Gear
                      • Nov 2007
                      • 384

                      #11
                      Ahh floor replacement brings back memories(of not too long ago). If you need the big round head rivets that hold on the cross braces let me know, I have a lifetime supply.
                      1965 109 2door hardtop (restored years ago)
                      1971 88 (restored and as new)
                      1967 88 (the next project)

                      Comment

                      • Bertha
                        3rd Gear
                        • Nov 2007
                        • 384

                        #12
                        Originally posted by thixon
                        My plan is to flap disc everything smooth, and then weld beads on the back sides, that I won't grind smooth.
                        Nice job. If you were looking for a more OEM look, than the bead welds, you could use metal to metal bonding agent and countersunk flat head rivets that give the appearance of spot welds when painted over. If interested let me know and I will send you the details.
                        1965 109 2door hardtop (restored years ago)
                        1971 88 (restored and as new)
                        1967 88 (the next project)

                        Comment

                        • thixon
                          5th Gear
                          • Jul 2007
                          • 909

                          #13
                          Originally posted by Bertha
                          Ahh floor replacement brings back memories(of not too long ago). If you need the big round head rivets that hold on the cross braces let me know, I have a lifetime supply.
                          Thanks Bertha. My lifetime supply will only get me through my bed repair, and possibly my refitting of my galv trim. So I may take you up on that offer.



                          Originally posted by Bertha
                          Nice job. If you were looking for a more OEM look, than the bead welds, you could use metal to metal bonding agent and countersunk flat head rivets that give the appearance of spot welds when painted over. If interested let me know and I will send you the details.
                          Thanks but it aint over yet. You may yet have the opportunity to say "Crappy job...way to go."

                          So far, the flat head solid rivets are my plan. I've also entertained the possibility of using countersunk blind rivets. My 8 year old son thinks those look cooler than the solid flat heads, so I may have to yield. We'll see. Part of the point of this build was to get him interested in this type of work, and for him to learn a few things. The healey 100-4 project will end up belonging to him one day(shh, don't tell him. He doesnt know yet), so the rover is functioning to wet his appetitie for car resoration. If he really presses for the countersunk pops, then thats the way I'll go.
                          Travis
                          '66 IIa 88

                          Comment

                          • Bertha
                            3rd Gear
                            • Nov 2007
                            • 384

                            #14
                            Originally posted by thixon
                            My lifetime supply will only get me through my bed repair, and possibly my refitting of my galv trim. So I may take you up on that offer.
                            I am talking about the large round head rivets that hold on the cross braces under the bed, not the smaller round head rivets(which I have a lifettime supply of as well) that hold the galv on.
                            1965 109 2door hardtop (restored years ago)
                            1971 88 (restored and as new)
                            1967 88 (the next project)

                            Comment

                            • ScottT
                              Low Range
                              • Jul 2008
                              • 96

                              #15
                              You guys are doing an awesome job.
                              I thought I was slick when I replaced the 109 pickup bed with tread plate and galvanized cross supports eight or nine years ago. I was unable to find anything to be used as the three length-wise supports, they run the length of the bed. After talking with our hosts and BP I left them out. I've used the bed for landscaping and rock hauling without issues.
                              Nice to see the great work.

                              Comment

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