What did you do to your Rover today?

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  • siii8873
    replied
    well this is actually over a few months. I rebuilt my 1954 2.0liter Siamese bore engine; cylinders bored out, new pistons, rings, mains, big ends, gudgeon pins/bushings, cam shaft, camshaft bearings, exhaust seats, exhaust valves,,..
    Went to start it for the first time last weekend, it fired up and ran nice for about 10minutes then coughed a few times and stalled. Have not been able to get it to fire more than a few seconds since. Checked fuel pump and it's pumping fuel and plugs smell gassy. Have not been able to figure out where I'm loosing spark yet.

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  • cedryck
    replied
    Drove Rover through a small trail with loads of mud to dress it up for the Comvec Show at Chester. Cannot show up all pristine and clean!

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  • MJL
    replied
    I drove it !!

    Sad to say but I hadn't driven my Series III since last December except for a short trip for its State inspection at the end of April. Today I was determined to start and use it again. It started on the first turn and I drove it out of the woods were it had been parked, gave it a good wash and then took it out for a drive.

    I know it's a sacrilege to have treated it this way, but I promise to try and do better for the rest of the year.

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  • 80sailor
    replied
    Installed new,upgraded alternator.

    And it works!

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  • DGG
    replied
    Refurbished my oil/water gauge. painted the needles to match the new VDO gauges that are going in.Click image for larger version

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  • caperover
    replied
    and blanked off extraneous openings. Had inside of tank epoxied.

    Began the refurb of an FFR gas tank.
    Drained old varnish, removed tank, - washed with phosphoric acid and chains. Viewed hundreds of pinholes from inside.
    Procured new side fill tank - had top fill cap cut off of old tank and soldered to new tank. Blanked off other filler holes.

    Resurrected 24V. fuel sender. Drilled out rivet holding spade terminal, listed out wire wound resistor, unwound 2 turns, reinserted resistor, inserted new spade terminal (swedge fit), and re-soldered.

    Next steps: Add replacement float and arm, repair fuel line pickup

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  • cedryck
    replied
    Top up, 90W in swivel balls, rear, and front diff, gearbox, and transfer box. Making ready to change crankcase oil after a run to the local auto store for the appropriate oil. Also cleaned a couple of months worth of Terrier slobber from all five rear windows in atop the tub, this enjoyable physical arm activity takes nearly an hour as the two Terriers have what seems to be industrial strength, long lasting, viscous, thick, oral slobber that only goes away with lots of Windex, and a copious amount of arm motion. Now I can see through them again.

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  • Les Parker
    replied
    Ref the gaiters, depends on where you are. In the salt belt, if they get torn they retain all that nasty stuff and it festers away. Though, if they are looked after and kept supple with dubbin or leather softener, they can keep the corrosive stuff at bay. Long and short, yes - a good idea but need to be attended to (along with all the other items -topping up, adjusting, cleaning etc).

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  • LaneRover
    replied
    Changed the hydraulic parts of the clutch system and boy did it need it. Though the fluid up on top of the reservoir looked nice and clean there was quite a bit of sludge at the bottom. I also took a chunk of some seal out of the master cylinder reservoir . . . not quite sure how it got in there!
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ID:	169610 What the fluid near the bottom looked like eeewwwwwww!

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  • cedryck
    replied
    Using truck to move rocks that are going to be used to rebuild a stone wall on my property, back of my 88 can hold 8-10 large stones, and 20-30 smaller stones

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  • tmckeon88
    replied
    Originally posted by siii8873
    working on replacing the front SPH balls, bearings and seals on my 54" and converting to a railco bush assembly. Completed disassembly of the front right axle. This truck has the older style tracta joint assembly. Removal of the bearing retainer is a real PITA.

    [ATTACH=CONFIG]10859[/ATTACH]
    I also did a SPH rebuild on my '69 IIA. The driver's side has had a wobbly wheel for what seems like years- it made getting inspection stickers a matter of pleading with mechanics that it wasn't that serious. I finally tore into it and got a new kingpin driven into my existing steering arm. This has old steering arms which sit on top of the housings. A new swivel ball, bearings, seals and sundries. Very satisfying to feel that front wheel now sitting as solid as a rock. I also made the acquaintance of a local garage that has a press and will do bearings and so forth essentially for free.

    I have a set of the leather gaiters on order- what are people's opinions on those? I had an old set on there and the balls under them were pitted and rusty; are they actually causing more damage than they are preventing?

    Tom

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  • cedryck
    replied
    Originally posted by Jeff Aronson
    Brent,

    I did that to my Corvair this past year. A backfire, caused by points that were too close together, leading to unburned fuel in the cylinders and then in the exhaust, blew out the muffler and the short pipe. It was quite an explosion!

    Jeff
    I have had that happen to me my canister split at the seam.

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  • printjunky
    replied
    Well, past few days, really.

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  • DGG
    replied
    Sorry the pictures are sideways. I don't know why they are like that.

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  • DGG
    replied
    I made it myself. I used some 1/8 self adhesive sound deadening foam that I stuck to the metal roof, and then glued headliner material to that.
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