Suggestions for Electrical Testing Tool?

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  • SafeAirOne
    Overdrive
    • Apr 2008
    • 3435

    #16
    Originally posted by jgkmmoore
    Can someone with electrical moxy address Les Parkers question regarding jumping the brakelight switch? I can't, or I certainly would.

    Well, there never was a question about brake light troubleshooting, just testing tools.

    However, since there is a demand for some brakelight troubleshooting here, if one takes the +12v lead (green) off the brake light switch and connects it to the other lead on the switch--the one that goes to the brake lights (green/purple)--the brake lights should illuminate, indicating (or eliminating) the brake pressure switch as the culprit.

    It would appear that the switches (ignition and military light switch) have to be in the correct position to complete this test.
    --Mark

    1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel

    0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
    (9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).

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    • Les Parker
      RN Sales Team - Super Moderator
      • May 2006
      • 2020

      #17
      SafeAirOne,

      A more complete answer, thanks for the input, though I was attempting to multi-task and solve the intital query.
      If the 6 way switch is not correctly in the "off" position the brake lights will not work, thus making it a little more difficult to diagnose.
      Les Parker
      Tech. Support and Parts Specialist
      Rovers North Inc.

      Comment

      • kevkon
        3rd Gear
        • Aug 2009
        • 364

        #18
        Originally posted by roverlandpark
        I'm trying to hunt down an issue with my brake lights and figured now would be a good time to pick up a decent testing tool. Does anybody have suggestions? I'm sure I can pick one up a cheap one at Wal-Mart, but I would like to know if anybody has a better suggestion.
        The better circuit testers like the Snap on http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog will not only indicate power, but ground and a good connection as well.
        I would have to agree with TeriAnn though, a multi tester is invaluable especially with resistance which can be a real problem with old vehicles, hacked up wiring, and corroded bullet connectors.
        94 D-90 tdi
        72 Series III

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        • roverlandpark
          Low Range
          • Feb 2009
          • 38

          #19
          Thanks everyone for your advice. I have finally gotten a continuity tester and ruled out the pedal switch. At this point, I think that it could be the hazard switch. It's not working at all. I looked at the circuit diagram and the brake lights connect through this piece. My next step is to see if I can take the switch apart to test the individual leads. I'm a little bit reluctant to do this because I have a tendency to break plastic parts. This piece retails for over $100 at our hosts....
          1979 Land Rover Half-Ton GS

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          • roverlandpark
            Low Range
            • Feb 2009
            • 38

            #20
            Lucas is the Prince of Darkness...

            So right after I pull the dash from the bulkhead, I try the hazard switch. It works. Then I try the brakes, they work! I swear, the only thing I did between the last post and now was to take the dash out. Ah, the joy of working with Lucas electrics....
            1979 Land Rover Half-Ton GS

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            • kevkon
              3rd Gear
              • Aug 2009
              • 364

              #21
              That's a common sympton of an improper/bad connection or loose contact. Use your tester and jiggle the suspect wire and switches.
              94 D-90 tdi
              72 Series III

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              • unimog875
                Low Range
                • Apr 2010
                • 3

                #22
                POWER PROBE!!!!!

                Hands down, In my shop i use the newest power probe EVERY day and it absolutely makes me money!

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