Copper "grease" on bolts

[printjunky]

It might take me awhile, since I'm changing them to stainless on an as-projects-crop-up basis. A LONG while, hopefully.

[bkreutz]

I haven't on the Rover, but I have on other projects, there are some special considerations that have to be factored in, there's a wide range of strengths available, and then there's the "galling" issue. I've used this company many times and they've been very helpful (and competitive on the prices)http://www.totallystainless.com/totallystainless.htm

[TedW]

I haven't on the Rover, but I have on other projects, there are some special considerations that have to be factored in, there's a wide range of strengths available, and then there's the "galling" issue.

I've only faced the galling issue once, and that was with the big nuts/bolts on the windscreen hinges.

On the bright side, when you have galling you don't need to use any red Loc-Tite!

[thixon]

Um...you guys realize you still have galvanic corrosion with stainless steel fasteners and aluminum right? Again, unless you're using your rover as a sailboat, its gonna take a really long time for you to have major trouble. Footboxes will be shot long before you loose a wing mounting point.

[jac04]

Um...you guys realize you still have galvanic corrosion with stainless steel fasteners and aluminum right?

And, since stainless is further away from aluminum on the galvanic series, the aluminum will tend to corrode more quickly than if a steel bolt were used.

[Jim-ME]

I'm thinking that I will go back to using zinc plated bolts with stainless nuts for the ones I may need to take off more regularly than usual. Otherwise I'll just use zinc plated steel.
Jim

[amcordo]

Um...you guys realize you still have galvanic corrosion with stainless steel fasteners and aluminum right? Again, unless you're using your rover as a sailboat, its gonna take a really long time for you to have major trouble. Footboxes will be shot long before you loose a wing mounting point.

Already accounted for. That's why I use nylon washers on either side of my normal washers. +1 on the galling: use locktite and don't over torque when putting the fasteners on.

And having taken the thing apart I can safely say that I had to replace 3/4 of the bolts I removed because I either had to grind them off or snap them in half to remove them. My teardown took twice as long as it needed too, but now that I'm SS it'll be a simple trick to get it apart again.

[NickDawson]

Quite the discussion evolving here.
All I know is that the stuff saved my bacon tonight, made getting the pin out from between the brake lever and the servo a breeze!

[Terrys]

now that I'm SS it'll be a simple trick to get it apart again.

fyi, 300 series ss bolts & nuts, because ss is so soft, tend to deform the threads, and you will find removing tightend ss bolts equally a pain. Also, 300 series stainless is not as strong as a grade 8 fastener. 400 series (CA15, 410ss) are very strong and heat resistant, but expensive.

[jac04]

Already accounted for. That's why I use nylon washers on either side of my normal washers.

Not really. The chances of the stainless bolt not being in electrical contact with the aluminum is slim. You would have to have centered the bolt in the hole before tightening, making very sure that the bolt didn't touch the aluminum at all during the tightening process. Use your multimeter to check for continuity between the bolt head and the aluminum and you'll see what I mean.

[SafeAirOne]

A couple of thoughts...

I think you are much, much more likely to have an issue getting an unprotected rusty nut off an unprotected rusty bolt than you are to have a galvanic corrosion issue using any type of anti-seize.

Galling in stainless isn't really a problem if you use a different type of stainless for the nuts and bolts. For example, use a 316 stainless nut AND bolt, and it'll probably jam up during tightening, but use a 316 stainless bolt and a 304 stainless nut and you'll be all set.

[mongoswede]

Just remember that stainless bolts are not as strong...or I should say they tend to be more brittle. So they work ok for low strain applications but I wouldn't use stainless on something like a spring bolt.

[amcordo]

Not really. The chances of the stainless bolt not being in electrical contact with the aluminum is slim. You would have to have centered the bolt in the hole before tightening, making very sure that the bolt didn't touch the aluminum at all during the tightening process. Use your multimeter to check for continuity between the bolt head and the aluminum and you'll see what I mean.

True, but I've minimized the area that will be corroded. Plus even if I used a normal steel it would STILL get corrosion. Not a concern for me, but thanks for yours!

fyi, 300 series ss bolts & nuts, because ss is so soft, tend to deform the threads, and you will find removing tightend ss bolts equally a pain. Also, 300 series stainless is not as strong as a grade 8 fastener. 400 series (CA15, 410ss) are very strong and heat resistant, but expensive.

That's why I haven't replaced any of the drivetrain hardware yet. However, the SS bolts I used weren't the cheapest type; they are hardier than grade 2 (which as far as I can tell are what was used across the rest of the truck - for instance to hold the roof on) and just about on par with grade 5. They've got about 80,000 psi minimum yield strength and 100,000 psi tensile strength. I ended up spending about $400 on all of the bolts from an online distributor.

Quite frankly the strength issue is moot; they've been on some places across my car for a year now, and the rest for the past three months including that long trip to southern KY and I've had no issues with stripping, bending, or otherwise breaking. And I've no intention of using them on drivetrain since they're just not made for that kind of stress.

I'm surprised there's so much resistence to changing all the fasteners you can to SS from a few of you - it's not original, but regardless of what you say it'll be a darned site easier removing it than normal or zinc coated steel in a few years. I can attest to that because the PO used it in the floorboards when he did his upgrade in '95. They were simple to remove. Other bolts - as I said they were easier to grind or more likely to snap.

[thixon]

Tony,

I don't think anyone in this thread is resistant to using SS fasteners, we just wanted to make sure it was understood that using them with the intention of stopping the corrosion of the aluminum parts would not work.

I will say this, I think you'd be better off worrying about other improvements rather than spending time and money considering exactly what fastener goes where. It will take a really, really long time for you to have problems with corrosion of the aluminum parts. My truck had some issues with the mounting points of the wings in the engine bay. They were still usable, but did have some corrosion. The truck is 44 years old.

All that said, its your hobby. Do what you want with it. If it makes you happy to see nice shiny SS fasteners holding the body together then install 'em.

[SafeAirOne]

I've had my wings, rad support panel, floor panels, transmission tunnel and seat box off so many times that I've had plenty of opportunity to replace all the 1/4-28 fasteners with 1/4-20 stainless bolts and nuts/washers. I haven't had a problem removing the fasteners since. Occasionally I'll come across an original fastener (like on the sill panels) and it'll be a real PITA to get apart, or it'll just snap during removal.

The aluminum gets pretty corroded using the original fasteners in some areas, such as the fastener holes on the seat box where it rests on the steel t-posts or where the steel compartments in the seat box are riveted (using al rivets) to the aluminum seat box.