Copper "grease" on bolts

[SafeAirOne]

Mark, Not to put too fine a point on it, but the only difference between 304 and 316 is Moly(bdenum) and they both have the same physical properties (Yield, UTS, E2" and RA) and will gall equally.

I think I may have got the types of stainless wrong in my example--Trying to do it from memory, as I'm not at the shop. My experience with the galling problem is that I was putting a bunch of 1/4-20 SS nyloc nuts on 1/4-20 SS bolts and was having many of them jam halfway tight. I went back to Fastenal and asked them what was going on, and they explained the galling issue and gave me their other stainless alloy nuts--Probably 18-8. Either way, I've used hundreds of these nuts in combination with the different alloy bolts and haven't even had a hint of galling since. Galling problem solved.

[amcordo]

Sorry, Tony. I never said the aluminum was going to turn to dust. In response to someone pointing out that galvanic corrosion will still occurr with stainless fasteners on aluminum, you stated "Already accounted for. That's why I use nylon washers on either side of my normal washers." You seemed to be stating that you were using the nylon washers because you knew about galvanic corrosion and were actually trying to do something to stop it. I was simply pointing out a key flaw in your reasoning.

Now, all the Rovers I have restored have utilized a lot of stainless hardware with no attempt to isolate it from the aluminum. I actually drove one of the vehicles I mechanically restored (a 69 SWB) through a few Maine winters with absolutely no signs of galvanic corrosion issues. The vehicle even had very thin original paint, so the aluminum wasn't well protected. However, the vehicle had a galvanized chassis which was left bare. Because zinc is more active than aluminum, the zinc on the chassis becomes the sacrificial anode.

I know you are "rust proofing" your vehicle by galvanizing a bunch of stuff, which is great. I know you are not galvanizing the chassis. Have you thought about installing sacrificial zinc anodes on the chassis?

Well eventually I'll upgrade to a galvanized chasis - but it's a ways off for a number of reasons. Let me take a step back and ask this: does anyone have a timeline for galvanic corrosion on any of these parts? Do I really need to worry about sacrificial anodes? Keep in mind my primary enemy no matter what has to be your run-of-the-mill salty roads in the winter corrosion.

It's starting to sound like, at least for me, the tradeoff I need to make is either resisting salt spray or resisting galv... blah blah corrosion.

I demand both.

Now I just need to find more plastic/fiberglass parts and just turn the whole car into a modern vehicle...

[jac04]

... does anyone have a timeline for galvanic corrosion on any of these parts? ...

Check out PeterK's post above. Looks like several years. Maybe he can provide a little more feedback on the exact timeline.

[thixon]

Time line.....Look at your tuck. Look at other peoples trucks.

There is already 60 or so years worth of observational data that can be used to predict how long it will take for things to start coming apart.

If anyone here is that worried about it, then coat the fasteners, parkerize, or maybe plate with gold? You could always use nylon fasteners.

[kevkon]

And in doing so it becomes obvious that galvanic corrosion between dissimilar metals is the least of the concerns with a Series truck. The big killer is corrosion of the metal frame and bulkhead. Keep those protected and call it a day.

[printjunky]

and galvanize everything!

http://www.freepatentsonline.com/6165630.html

[gudjeon]

When I made my own wiring system, I grounded every panel and made one large common ground to eliminate any potential electrical problems. A larger main ground is seen, as mentioned on composite construction such as planes and boats. Will this help with galvanitic corrosion? I'll let you know in another 50 years.