Should I save the hydraulic lines?

[kwd509]

My project is moving slowly pending locating a winter workspace, but I'm preparing for some winter indoor projects just in case. Yesterday, I removed the left fender with intent to access and remove the brake pedals and associated brackets and hydraulic cylinders. The hitch I ran into is that the 6 hydraulic line fittings (2 out of fluid reservoir & 2 in & 2 out of the 2 hydraulic cylinders) are rusted solid. ONe fitting on the reservoir loosened but the line twisted and immediately snapped. Sprayed again with PB Blaster and retired to consider.

I want to review my conclusion to see if it a reasonable course.

That is: it is full speed ahead........ the lines have sat rusting inside and out for 28 years and even if they came off intact I should replace them. Therefore, I propose snipping them and discarding. This approach simplifies things and assumes that new piping is required, even if I could get them off of my car, (or the donor).

Thoughts?

Thanks again.


Lastly,
this rover has been in my family since I was a kid. It's just been reclaimed from a field. Yesterday, in cleaning out the cab, removing the heater and ductwork I found my next project....... a tr3 that has also been in the family for years.
See photo

[LaneRover]

If they are rusty enough to snap off and you are going through the truck I would replace the brake lines definitely. At least if the clutch line goes you can still stop. You just need to know how to drive without the clutch to get going. But since you are at it I would also fix the clutch line.

Nice TR3! Are you going to go with new rims as well as tires? Will you paint the TR3 in a two-tone scheme?

Brent

[siiirhd88]

The steel fittings and lines are available from a number of sources, including out host. If they are that worn or rusty, I don't think I'd trust them.

I have a TR3 just like that one, same green color and in slightly better condition. Neat find. Also, like Terri Ann, I have a full size TR3 to go along with the Series. The full size TR3 has been in my family since I bought it in 1970. The small one not nearly as long.

Bob

'02 Disco II SD
'80 SIII 109
'75 SIII 88 V8
'68 SIIA 109 V8

[KevinNY]

Junk them, they did their time. Rolls of alloy brake line are available at NAPA which are easy to bend by hand and make easy flares.

[SafeAirOne]

Junk them, they did their time. Rolls of alloy brake line are available at NAPA which are easy to bend by hand and make easy flares.

I might caution you that Rover did seem to love to mix and match hydraulic fitting thread pitches and types of flares, so it might not be as easy as grabbing a bunch of flare nuts at your local auto parts store and banging out lines using a single-flare ...um...flaring tool.

There were BSF, UNF and metric threads used at one point or another as well as "old style" SAE convex bubbe flares, DIN/ISO flares and possibly some regular double flares too, though I'm not certain.

In other words, make sure the flare nuts you use fit the wheel cylinders, master cylinder and junction blocks and be sure you can put the right types of flares on the tubes before you dive in too deep.

Good info:

http://www.fedhillusa.com/webnuts/common%20flares6.pdf

http://store.fedhillusa.com/technicalhelphowtopdfs.aspx#17

[kwd509]

thanks. All very helpful......
now for removing fittings from cylinders.

[KevinNY]

I said that the line was available at NAPA, not the fittings. FedHill is a good source for those. My flare tool kit is also from NAPA and can make the proper bubble flares as well as single flares. Photos and notes as you disssemble will help you get it all back together correctly.

[Jim-ME]

The Kunifer lines available from other sources seem to be the same item. The beauty is that you can order a complete kit with the correct fittings. Give it some thought.
Jim

[SafeAirOne]

I said that the line was available at NAPA, not the fittings. FedHill is a good source for those.

Yeah--I know that you knew, I just wanted to make sure the OP knew also...

[KevinNY]

[kwd509]

The Kunifer lines available from other sources seem to be the same item. The beauty is that you can order a complete kit with the correct fittings. Give it some thought.
Jim

Yes, that is v helpful...... complete kit may be good, because at this early stage even though I am taking photos, I have not perfected the camera use so that it provides the info, perspective and sequencing necessary for easy reassembly.