Buying Rebuilt Engine Sources

[mongoswede]

Here is some info on mileage. While many are saying mileage will be scary low mpg, due to average weight of average expedition vehicle. This is not an average anything, now, or when I have it ready to leave. Lizzy will not be loaded down with every piece known to man, nor have every creature comfort. I will construct the interior as light as possible, while being durable enough to make the trip. That being said, will take a lot of stress off the vehicle, which should help with reliability. We all drive different, and there are too many variables to guess. The question never arose before I purchased the motor, and asked later on. The previous owner real world figures are 14+ off road, and on last trip laning in France, loaded for two was over 16mpg. This is with points in the dizzy. I am installing a Magnetronic points replacement in a new dizzy, with exhaust modifications, and talking with Roland I should get 16+ off road, and expect more with long highway stretches. I have no reason to doubt either statements, as I had already bought the motor, and Roland's reputation is on the line. I will have 145ltrs aboard, and doubt fuel will be a problem. I will research fueling a little further out, when a rough route is better defined, and have extra Scepters if I think it will be a problem. Almost sounds like everyone would be happier if I got a diesel Toyota LC, which has about 1/2 the interior space as Lizzy.

I think its pretty clear that everyone would have been happier if you just bought a prius

[gchinsr]

Here is some info on mileage. While many are saying mileage will be scary low mpg, due to average weight of average expedition vehicle. This is not an average anything, now, or when I have it ready to leave. Lizzy will not be loaded down with every piece known to man, nor have every creature comfort. I will construct the interior as light as possible, while being durable enough to make the trip. That being said, will take a lot of stress off the vehicle, which should help with reliability. We all drive different, and there are too many variables to guess. The question never arose before I purchased the motor, and asked later on. The previous owner real world figures are 14+ off road, and on last trip laning in France, loaded for two was over 16mpg. This is with points in the dizzy. I am installing a Magnetronic points replacement in a new dizzy, with exhaust modifications, and talking with Roland I should get 16+ off road, and expect more with long highway stretches. I have no reason to doubt either statements, as I had already bought the motor, and Roland's reputation is on the line. I will have 145ltrs aboard, and doubt fuel will be a problem. I will research fueling a little further out, when a rough route is better defined, and have extra Scepters if I think it will be a problem. Almost sounds like everyone would be happier if I got a diesel Toyota LC, which has about 1/2 the interior space as Lizzy.

[albersj51]

If your old drivetrain needs a home, let me know!

[/B][/B]QUOTE=gchinsr;64176]It is a 110 first registration AUG 1984. It has a 2.5 petrol with a Lt77, and a 1.6 T/C and runs fine. It would cruise at 65 all day in 5th stock, and hit 85, but be a bit scary. I loaded it with 800lbs spread out in the rear to get an idea of power requirements. It ran fine through 1-4, but was not accelerate in OD. It held speed fine, even on slight upgrades. This is where the 25 extra hp number came from. It's not a race car, and don't expect it, just a slight upgrade needed for the extra weight.
Greg[/QUOTE]

[gchinsr]

It is a 110 first registration AUG 1984. It has a 2.5 petrol with a Lt77, and a 1.6 T/C and runs fine. It would cruise at 65 all day in 5th stock, and hit 85, but be a bit scary. I loaded it with 800lbs spread out in the rear to get an idea of power requirements. It ran fine through 1-4, but was not accelerate in OD. It held speed fine, even on slight upgrades. This is where the 25 extra hp number came from. It's not a race car, and don't expect it, just a slight upgrade needed for the extra weight.
Greg

[greenmeanie]

Am I the only who has noticed that the truck in question appears to be a Defender? I suppose I should start by asking for the specs for the drivetrain? What engine is in there now - at worst it would be a 2.5 petrol from the factory? If it is a Defender I would expect 3.54 diffs, LT77 or maybe an R380 mated to an LT230. The transfer case could be the make or break of that engine as you have high ratio choices of between 1:1 (ish) up to 1.6:1.

[LaneRover]

to be honest if we all thought the same about stuff the world over we most likely wouldn't be driving old Land Rovers in the first place!

[gchinsr]

Hi Terry
The long stroke crank is from the Ford truck engines manufactured in South America, the rest is all land Rover. What spares I don't have on hand, my family can ship me spares from home. What isn't clear to all, is after this trip, it will be stripped out, and be a run around for fun truck, and that is why I am happy to have it a petrol. I have always been a petrol head, and like the way a petrol responds, and drives. I have nothing against diesels, just does not fit my needs here. Yes the fuel cost are more,the range is less, but that is fine, and not an issue. I was only wanting another 25hp over stock, with a little more torque to be happy honestly, so this engine exceeds my expectations. I have just bought a lifting roof for a 110 in the UK, and will build a 110 with a diesel for this roof. That one will be a dedicated camping truck, built with different parameters, and intended usage.I hope this clears up why I chose the 2.8 ACR lump, and not a TDi

[Terrys]

gchinsr, I don't recall if you said where you and your son plan on going, in South America. It would appear from your comments that you've given some thought to the trip, but, from my perspective, you've overlooked some points in favor of assuming the best. While a Land Rover may be a good platform for the typ of trip you're planning, there are Land Rovers, and there are Land Rovers. It's certainly never been considered a 'one size fits all", evidenced by the vast array of configurations.
Having a newish engine does not guarentee a trouble free trip, so, will every potential problem have a fix waiting for you at the next town? Are the componants unique to the ACR petrol engine available everywhere? There aren't as many Land Rovers running around S. America, like there used to be. You may find a dealership willing to help out, but willing and able differ vastly from country to country.
Have you considered that fuel costs, with the exception of Ecuador and Venezuela, range from 10% more than US, to 70% more. Couple that with a range of less than half of a diesel vehicle of equal tankage, you may well find yourself planning your trip around fuel stops. I can't claim experience with an ACR engine, but having had more than 3 dozen Land Rovers of varying engines and configurations over 45 years, I think you're overly optimistic with your fuel consumption figures. Driving down there simply isn't like any, ANY parts of the US mainland. Also, my Defender 110, weighing half again as my 88, gets 25% better milage.

http://www.nationmaster.com/graph/ene_gas_pri-energy-gasoline-prices

[yorker]

I did look at many options, just don't have your same opinions. Better choices for who? Are you driving this vehicle? What am I only supposed to use what you want me to use. What is the big issue, I get it, you don't like the engine, so don't buy one. But to say I am wrong in my choice is just ignorant. That is your opinion, nothing more. I don't need a whole lot of extra power, as it will not be loaded anywhere close to max weight. I have a somewhat unique vehicle, and am taking advantage of that fact. I am not using it for a rock crawler, just a long trip south, off the beaten track sometimes. So my choice will suit me just fine. End of story. If it bugs you that much, buy it and lets see what you will do, if anything.Then we can start a new thread, and I will tell you why your choices are all wrong. The reason I brought up the extra interior capacity, is because it will allow me to NOT have a roof rack, and it is a sleep in conversion. Yes you have a formula for drag on the hi top roof, but it is a lot more aero than a loaded roof rack, with a RTT. Or is that wrong too? I must have a roof top tent? I will have a fridge, it that cool? Here's a great formula: I bought it+ My choices+ My cash+ My build= My Land Rover The math does not lie. I like friendly banter, it's entertaining, but insisting that you alone know all, is just getting boring.
Cheers
Greg

Sorry you have gotten your panties all in a twist. Yes it is your truck and you are free to do what you want with it. All I am trying to tell you is that your expectations are unrealistic. BTDT. You are entitled to your $, your truck, and your obviously uninformed opinion but not your personal version of physics.

What the hell do we know though? feel free to prove us wrong.

[Eric W S]

Guess it depends on what is being done. Local race shop to me will lighten a flywheel for $90, do a 3 angle valve job with cleaning, and head planing as necesary, and valve seals on an 8v head as needed for $200. Not sure what they charge for measure/inspect the cylinder bores, boring, and honing on a 4 cylinder but I doubt its much more than $500 - $750. So for about $1000 you should be able to get all the basic machine shop work done. Now this bill will of course go exponential if you get into balancing, blue printing, crank grinding, knifing, extrude honing, titanium rods, forged pistons, double valve springs, etc etc....but then again this is a rover engine...you would have to be rather foolish to dump that much work into a 2.25 motor (or really friggin obsessed ).

x2. Basic Machine work, a basic balance and some porting isn't even close to half of what the total cost of an ACR or Turner delevered is and offers the same performance, with the added benefit of supporitng local craftsman...

[Eric W S]

Less than half????? The machine shop work alone is around 2k for a proper rebuild and that is without buying parts. Not sure where you are getting your figures from......good luck with that.

Several race shops around the Midwest. And that is a la cart service with full balancing/blue printing.

Guess I am lucky or at least not getting ripped off...

[junkyddog11]

I will not running around at peak RPM's all day.
Greg

I think you'll find that you will be much more often than you'd think. Not trying to be critical, just realistic.

[gchinsr]

I did look at many options, just don't have your same opinions. Better choices for who? Are you driving this vehicle? What am I only supposed to use what you want me to use. What is the big issue, I get it, you don't like the engine, so don't buy one. But to say I am wrong in my choice is just ignorant. That is your opinion, nothing more. I don't need a whole lot of extra power, as it will not be loaded anywhere close to max weight. I have a somewhat unique vehicle, and am taking advantage of that fact. I am not using it for a rock crawler, just a long trip south, off the beaten track sometimes. So my choice will suit me just fine. End of story. If it bugs you that much, buy it and lets see what you will do, if anything.Then we can start a new thread, and I will tell you why your choices are all wrong. The reason I brought up the extra interior capacity, is because it will allow me to NOT have a roof rack, and it is a sleep in conversion. Yes you have a formula for drag on the hi top roof, but it is a lot more aero than a loaded roof rack, with a RTT. Or is that wrong too? I must have a roof top tent? I will have a fridge, it that cool? Here's a great formula: I bought it+ My choices+ My cash+ My build= My Land Rover The math does not lie. I like friendly banter, it's entertaining, but insisting that you alone know all, is just getting boring.
Cheers
Greg

[yorker]

Originally I was going to swap a diesel, until this engine popped up on Ebay. It was mentioned earlier that the 2.8 is only good for ease of swapping. The 200Tdi requires only a few mods for the intercooler, and fuel delivery, no biggie.I would have to learn all I can, and wrench a lot before i leave to be self sufficient with any Tdi, which have taken away much time that could have been used in vehicle preparation.

The TDi is simple, and the learning curve isn't steep. It wouldn't require a lot of work to get to know it well enough for such a journey. There is always the 2.5 and 200Di too if you want added simplicity. There are other even better choices out there but I assume you want to stay with the Rover part's box for simplicities sake.

Now I have an engine optimized to the best standards possible, without negatively sacrificing reliability, that I can repair myself. Perfect for my needs. And bringing up the argument that its too this, or too that, is just opinions. How did countless travelers ever survive, or complete a trip with a, gulp, stock grossly under powered, inefficient engine, impossible right?

They drove slow used a lot of gas and eventually got there, the same thing you are going to do. The 2.25 and its derivatives are a slow, thirsty and overworked but pretty reliable series of engines. At low speeds the 4 cylinder gas engine's thirst for fuel can be alarming. Don't discount all the "opinions" you find here, many of them are a result of genuine first hand experience over the decades with these things. Everybody has an opinion but some of them are very well informed and the result of years practical knowledge.

Its not all about the engine, as there are more than one to choose, but the whole package we are able to put together. My ambulance weighted at Tillbury with a quarter tank was 1603k, light starting point. I do intend to keep it as light as possible, and travel light. As for the aerodynamics, my interior has roughly an extra 35sq ft over stock roofs, and how do you think I will compare with a 110 that needs a full roof rack, and RTT.

They usually a penalty of at least 2-3MPG with a V8 powered Rover with a roof rack, it is likely you'll see the same. Then again it depends how fast you travel too. The physics of the matter is just one of those things you can't escape. Naturally the slower you go the less and less this has an impact.





1603KG/3530 Lbs for a starting point is pretty light, ask around for the average expedition weight of these trucks. Post here what it weighs when you are fully kitted out for this adventure.

[mongoswede]

Less than half????? The machine shop work alone is around 2k for a proper rebuild and that is without buying parts. Not sure where you are getting your figures from......good luck with that.

Guess it depends on what is being done. Local race shop to me will lighten a flywheel for $90, do a 3 angle valve job with cleaning, and head planing as necesary, and valve seals on an 8v head as needed for $200. Not sure what they charge for measure/inspect the cylinder bores, boring, and honing on a 4 cylinder but I doubt its much more than $500 - $750. So for about $1000 you should be able to get all the basic machine shop work done. Now this bill will of course go exponential if you get into balancing, blue printing, crank grinding, knifing, extrude honing, titanium rods, forged pistons, double valve springs, etc etc....but then again this is a rover engine...you would have to be rather foolish to dump that much work into a 2.25 motor (or really friggin obsessed ).