block heater options for 2.6 engine

[xsbowes]

Hmm, Phillips & Temro lists a 1" bore, I didn't see anything other than the threaded plug that was close to 1"...

LRFAQ had the old temro part numbers but the 4 and 6 cylinders were different.

[Cutter]

I've got a garage, its not heated however. The rover was in the driveway and wouldn't start to return to its cave so it sat. I suppose the battery could be too weak and need replacing, but it is (supposedly) a 3 year old Optima the P.O. put in.

[I Leak Oil]

Ya, it should start in 20 degree weather no problem. There's something else wrong. A block heater will just address the symptom leaving the problem to bite you in the arse at the most inconvenient time. I'd start with the battery and connections, go from there

[Terrys]

No offense, but a block heater won't leak if care is taken when puting it in. Everyone has a story to tell, and everyone has a preference, and I'm no different. I have had a block heater in my 110 for 8 years. If it's leaking, then the rover fairey has been pi$$ing in my radiator, because I don't loose coolant. My '87 diesel merc wagon has the same block heater since new. Guess where it's installed.
When the thermostat is closed, you don't get much circulation, so my thinking is I'd rather put the heat into the engine, then into the rad. Any kind of breeze and the heat is nicely dissipated right out through the rad fins. Last dumb yankee thought is that it's the engine I'm trying to start, not the radiator.

[bpj911]

inline heater

I don't know much about a lower radiator hose heater but one of the inline circulating heaters heats the entire engine by circulating hot coolant. I have had several of the freeze plug heaters and most were ok but the ones that weren't were a hassle. Notably, leaking. Not that it's a big deal to replace one but compared to just loosening some heater hoses I find it to be a hassle. At least here in Nebraska where it's warm all the time.

I use a Swingfire or Schwingfeur if it's super suck cold out and i can just carry it around to that gearboxes or wheel drives or whatever is frozen.

[Cutter]

I'll make everyone happy but my wife and start with the battery and then see about the block heater. I sort of follow Terrys's logic regarding the ideal placement, and like the cleanliness of that solution, though the simplicity of the lower hose inline heater is attractive.

[yorker]

It really should be starting in this weather- it isn't THAT cold out yet. I'd suspect your battery- get it tested, there was a while when Optimas seemed to go to hell left and right.

For engine heaters i always liked the ones that circulated the water, I have had a bunch of the Kat ones like this in the past:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KATS-K200-TANK-TYPE-EXTERNAL-ENGINE-HEATER-2000-WATT-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem19c1a28b2dQQitemZ110622837549QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

[bpj911]

those are the ones

I like those KAT heaters. I couldn't remember the brand name.

[Moose]

The original 2.25 engine in my Series 3 had that same threaded port. It was near the rear of the engine just past and above the rear freeze plug. It was a 1" thread I seem to remember. I was able to get a thread in heater at Canadian Tire, the big chain store up here in the Great White North. This was many many moons ago so I don't have a clue about the part number now. Was a Temro though.

After an engine swap, the "new" engine didn't have the threaded port so I went with the lower rad hose heater. The thing worked great and the truck would start easily at -30. The way you are supposed to install the inline heaters is above the bend in the lower rad hose, nearer the water pump. That way, the the majority of the heat rises up through the engine from the bottom.

I've got freeze plug installed heaters now in both my 88 and 110 diesels and neither of them leak. Both were installed while the engines were on the bench, so that may have had something to do with it... much easier that way.

Brett

[Dav1550]

Hmm, Phillips & Temro lists a 1" bore, I didn't see anything other than the threaded plug that was close to 1"...

FYI.....The 1” freeze plugs are on the left side of the motor there about the exhaust header.

[Cutter]

Really? On a 6 cylinder engine? I'll look again.

[Dav1550]

Really? On a 6 cylinder engine? I'll look again.

They’re pretty well hidden by the manifold, except for the one at the front of the motor…. You’ll find it just next to where the block serial # is stamped.
Dave
74 SIII 109 stationwagon 2.6 6/cyl

[Cutter]

There they are, thanks for pointing that out. I don't think that is a good location for a block heater due to the heat from the manifold-seems like it would shorten the lifespan significantly of any electrics and the rubber gasket. I also see on the Temco pdf of vehicles (2009_Zerostart_Application_Guide_and_Product_catal og.pdf p.23)that the heater listed is threaded 1"- so I think it might be intended for that port on the side that I pointed out. I read that plug is near impossible to take out without destructive means.

[Donnie]

Anyone with experience in the past know if the 2.25 block heater fits the 2.6 engine? I am guessing it will not, so I'm trying to determine what my options are. As of now my rover is outside and not in the garage because it won't start due to the 20º temp here today.

Pushing in the clutch petal will help a SLIGHT bit as you are not churning the 90 weight oel in the gearbox. Not a BIG concern or solution to your problem, just a tid bit of info,,

[Roverowner]

http://www.wolverineheater.com/

I just put one of these on my diesel Dodge Sprinter yesterday. Never needed to put a heater on a gas engine before, even in really cold weather. As in -20F cold.