Oil Pressure

[TedW]

Amsoil / Mobil1 / Castrol Syntec

It is my understanding that synthetic oils can have a wider spread in viscosity without the risk of thermal breakdown of the polymers described above. I believe that this is because they are simply more stable throughout any given temperature range.
I have a new engine (under 3000 mi. so far) and plan to run synthetic(probably 5w40 Castrol Syntec) when I hit 3k. My mechanic (I believe everything he tells me) says to break the engine in on the "dino juice" (regular oil).
A change I strongly recommend is synthetic gear oil. A huge change in performance was my experience after making the switch.
One very cold night during a winter in the early 90's I left a bottle of synthetic gear lube (Amsoil, I think - available from our hosts!) and a bottle of standard 90w hypoy out on the porch. It hit -20F that morning. The regular gear oil came out of the bottle like it was rubber cement, but the synthetic seemed little different than when it was warm. I will never run regular hypoy again.
The only problem: It leaks out faster!
I would very much like to hear other opinions about synthetic versus regular oils, especially if you have read of negatives regarding synthetics.

[LRBear]

2 "Problems"...

The only 2 problems w Synthetic that I'm aware of are:

-the higher cost. (Although this can be offset by the ability to extend your oil change intervals.) AND this isn't as bad of a cost delta for the do-it-yourself job as it is for the Jiffy-Lube job.

-the uncanny ability of synthetics to find even the smallest leak path. (Although this probably also indicates an increased ability to lubricate even the "tight spots".)

In general an older engine might not be a good candidate for synthetic simply because of all of the "new" leaks you'll discover. But a newer engine will reap all of the benefits AND last much longer! (Still, I'd go ahead and try it in an "older" engine, then determine if the "new" leaks are significant...)

Yes, most mechanics will recommend that you use the "dinosaur-oil" for an new engine break in.

-Bear-

[TSR53]

...The only problem: It leaks out faster!...

Land Rover has always been ahead of the times. That's the built-in Land Rover GPS system! Follow the trail... so at least you know how to get back home.

[luckyjoe]

Ted,

I see the increased cost of synthetics as an burden for a Series used off-road. It's much more expensive to change the fluids after significant water crossings, so I doubt I'd ever really see the advantage of extended change intervals. I'd gladly welcome the synthetic advatages, but in a Series I'm not sold.

I run Mobil Delvac1 5W40 in my VW Tdi and it is a fantastic oil. It's full synthetic from group 3 base stocks. If you are looking for a 5W40 full synth, then I would look no further than this oil. I've run it in a high mileage D1 4.0L as well and no increase in leaks.

Tom P.

[TedW]

Tom,
I agree with your point on cost vs. benefit, especially if you are doing water crossings on a regular basis and change fluids frequently. I find Synthetics to be preferable because of the temperature swings up here and because (as I understand it) they just run cooler and do a better job of lubricating and preventing wear. I do not extend my changes - every 3k for me. I do think that synthetics are a no-brainer for everyone with a Fairey overdrive with its small oil capacity.
You are right about the Delvac. Great stuff. I actually have a stock of VW/Audi spec 5w40 Castrol Syntec (from Belgium! Smells like good beer!) that I plan to run. Also group 3 base stocks, if I remember correctly.
Some people go nuts about oil. Castrol has a 0w30 Syntec that was green and smelled like gummy bears (still might). Supposedly the elixir of youth for the Audi 1.8T engine. People on the Audiworld site were hoarding it, and sending messages about which Autozone stores had it in stock. They would even post pics of their garage walls lined with bottles of the stuff. The conversation got to the point where people were comparing lot numbers printed on the bottles. Must not have any kids or aging parents!

[jp-]

Ted,

You don't compare lot numbers?


...I didn't know oil had lot numbers

[yorker]

Tom
Some people go nuts about oil. Castrol has a 0w30 Syntec that was green and smelled like gummy bears (still might). Supposedly the elixir of youth for the Audi 1.8T engine. People on the Audiworld site were hoarding it, and sending messages about which Autozone stores had it in stock. They would even post pics of their garage walls lined with bottles of the stuff. The conversation got to the point where people were comparing lot numbers printed on the bottles. Must not have any kids or aging parents!

That must be that "German Castrol" I was reading about on the oil guy page...

[jp-]

Oh by the way, I wasn't going to say anything, but I can't help it.

The low oil weights 5W-40, 0W-30 are meant for very tight tolerance engines. i.e. not Land Rover engines. You really don't want to run anything thinner than a 10W-30, unless you are continually running in temps colder than -10 to -20. Match the oil with the engine and with the temp you regularly drive in.

[jp-]

I predict a CSI episode where the killer is caught by the lot number on his motor oil.

Could happen...

[TedW]

Yes, Yorker, it is the "German Castrol" discussed at great length on the oil page.
It supposedly was all base 3 ester stock (which is best, I am told) as opposed to the 'murrican made motor honey.

[yorker]

Yes, Yorker, it is the "German Castrol" discussed at great length on the oil page.
It supposedly was all base 3 ester stock (which is best, I am told) as opposed to the 'murrican made motor honey.

Yep that stuff is supposed to be great oil- I never hunted it down though.


German Castrol FAQ

http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=711450&an=0&page=0#Post711450

Thin Oil thread:

http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=711581&an=0&page=0#Post711581

[TSR53]

http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-8...il-gallon.aspx

I run Amsoil 15-40 (AME) Heavy Duty in my 1995 Audi //S6 20v turbo - since day one. It now has 178,000 miles and the engine sounds and drives like it is brand new. Also, I use Mahle oil filters and 5,000 miles oil changes, which keep it purrrrin'. I use it all year round even in sub-zero weather with no leaks. Since we are an Amsoil dealer, I order it by the case, comes with four easy to pour gallon containers. Less landfill waste.

I plan to swap over my new-to-me 1991 2.1 litre wasserboxer Volkswagen Westfalia to the same oil, it has 149,000 original miles. I've used Mobil 1 15-50W in my older Audi ur-quattros but, sometimes when hot (track tempertures - Lime Rock Park '96) the Mobil 1 just got thin and my oil pressure dropped.

I am seriously contemplating swapping over my 2006 MINI Cooper S from the factory 5-30W Castrol Syntec to Amsoil...

I also ran the 15-40W HD in my ex-1994 Defender 90 NAS soft top. Pulled a Coleman Taos pop-up (and fully laden rig with wife, daughter, stuffed animals, mtn. bikes and all gear) all the way to Colorado nationals and back to Vermont in 2001. Vail Pass was brutal. Better yet, after having the pedal matted for hours coming up hwy 70 to Silverthorne, CO, We then drove south on hwy 9 past Breckenridge, CO over and up and down several Continentai divide passes with the pedal mashed again. Worked awesome.

This oil is da kine.

[jac04]

Some people go nuts about oil. Castrol has a 0w30 Syntec that was green and smelled like gummy bears (still might). ... The conversation got to the point where people were comparing lot numbers printed on the bottles.

I have a 'stash' of green 0W-30 German Castrol Syntec that I use in my Prodrive Stage 3 Subaru WRX (2.0 turbo running 19 psi of boost). And, yes, you need to have certain lot numbers to ensure that you were getting the green versus the newer gold oil.

[jac04]

Oh by the way, I wasn't going to say anything, but I can't help it.

The low oil weights 5W-40, 0W-30 are meant for very tight tolerance engines. i.e. not Land Rover engines. You really don't want to run anything thinner than a 10W-30, unless you are continually running in temps colder than -10 to -20. Match the oil with the engine and with the temp you regularly drive in.

Don't be fooled by the low "W" number. You really need to look at the actual viscosity specs of the oil that you are using. Check out the FAQ link posted by yorker.

[TedW]

jac04: OK, I confess...I have a stash, too!

I run it in my chipped '02 A4. Also have a bunch of Belgian made 5w40 Syntec (meets all the fancy VW/Audi specs) that I plan to run in my new (not rebuilt) 2.25 after break-in. Anything to make it last. And no, I will not extend drain intervals. Just want to keep wear to a minimum and get better mileage.
My new 2.25 engine runs at +/-75psi oil pressure with GTX 10w40 (capillary oil gauge - looks just like the original electric one) and around 50 psi at idle. It will be interesting to see what my oil pressure is in the heat of August after I change over to the Syntec.