Weird no start/no power.

[Billy5]

Ok, first off I am new to rovers. Second I have the green bible. So heres my problem. My right tail light would light up when the key is on, but the light switch is off. I looked at the grounds on the top of the tub, looked ok. Dusty but ok. So I thought perhaps the switch itself maybe be bad, allowing power to pass through to that side. I took the dash plate with the switches off to look around ( lots of wires back there) didn't see anything to out of line, except that they are old. So I decided to leave things alone for the time, and went to start it. I got nada. The headlights dont come on, no power at all. I checked the battery and I have 12.15 volts. Mind you I had zero issues up until I looked into the rear light. Always started with no problem. Now, could I have jarred a wire loose when I put the dash back in? Or are there fuses elsewhere that I am missing. I have two on the firewall that appear to be good. Thank you for any direction you may have.

[I Leak Oil]

What happens when you put a set of jumper cables on it?

[Billy5]

I didnt try cables. I have 12 volts, I dont even have a click click. Its as if the truck is getting no power now. Headlights dont come on, nothing. I just cant think of what I could of done to cause it. Did I jar a wire loose? Its just bizarre. all from a tail light that comes on with the ignition switch, rather than the light switch. But I guess I will try a jump pack. Cant hurt.

[Apis Mellifera]

It sounds like perhaps the ignition circuit and brake light circuit have been switched. As a laugh, you could try pressing the brake and then try starting it.

I'd suggest tracing the various circuits to find where the power is. Brown wires are constant 12V, white is switched, and, as I recall, green with purple is the brake circuit.

The minimum you need to run is constant (switched via the key) 12V on the coil (white wire).

To activate the starter solenoid you need momentary 12V. You could jumper the battery to the coil and then either briefly jumper to the small spade terminal on the (new style) solenoid or briefly (via an actual jumper cable) directly to the starter (new or old style) solenoid.

Regardless, you need a test light and some time to ring some wires.

PS, both brake lights should light unless there is something REALLY weird going on.

[leafsprung]

trace your circuit backwards from the battery with a voltage meter. Do you have a wiring diagram you can work from?

[Billy5]

OK update: I have 12.30 volts at the battery. I checked the connections at the fuse block on the fire wall, seemed ok, but the spade connectors seemed a little loose, I will crimp them down tomorrow. However, When I turned the key to try and start it, it turned over but did not run. So, I checked the connection at the ignition switch. All popped off easily, so I put them back as best as I could, hopefully on the right prongs. Does the switch distribute all the power to the vehicle? I know on boats they do. The switch looks like a standard multi position one. I also think its original, so is it possible the switch just finally crapped out in a coincidental matter? I have looked at the wiring diagram, and I dont see how I can get power to the rear running light with just the ignition switch on, unless the switch is allowing power to flow...I will keep search and researching. Hey its my first rover, with 42 year old wires and switches. And it is just the right rear running light that comes on with the ignition turned on. The po, wired in an aftermarket brake light switch, but it was running just fine until today. Thank you for all the help thus far.

[leafsprung]

-are you getting power to the fuse block switched terminals with the key on?
-Are you sure that the rear lamp is a running light and not a brake lamp?

Check your ignition circuit for voltage:

Bat->solenoid->ign switch->fuse block->coil->distributor

[Billy5]

-are you getting power to the fuse block switched terminals with the key on?
-Are you sure that the rear lamp is a running light and not a brake lamp?

Check your ignition circuit for voltage:

Bat->solenoid->ign switch->fuse block->coil->distributor

Not sound stupid, but the wires to the fuse block are a little murky. There are two fuses. The top and bottom. Which one is switched, and which one is hot all the time? i will clean the wires off so i can tell the colors tomorrow. I have power to the solenoid, but then nothing to the fuse block ( of course I am not sure which one I should be looking at), also heres a kicker, the light comes on with my emergency brake engaged? I just found that one out. I have owned it going on three weeks, what a way to jump in..Now, there is a brown wire going to the same panel as my ignition, it goes to a little box with green and white wires, this is fused ( or so it looks, but I cannot get it open to look). The diagram isnt clear as to what it is or I might be misreading it. Just curious. I will check the power tomorrow. I have both a test light, and a meter.

[SafeAirOne]

Not sound stupid, but the wires to the fuse block are a little murky. There are two fuses. The top and bottom. Which one is switched, and which one is hot all the time?

According to the wiring diagram, the brown with blue tracer feed wire is hot all the time and the one with the white feed wire is switched via the ignition switch. Note that the white wire also feeds other stuff BEFORE the fuse (cold start lamp, oil pressure lamp, charge lamp, coil/fuel shutoff solenoid (if equipped).

[martindktm]

also heres a kicker, the light comes on with my emergency brake engaged?

There is no switch or nothing electrical connected to the parking brake...

[Billy5]

tell me about it, I just noticed that one right before all this happened. Im thinking pinched wires when I engage it. But right now I would like for it to run. I am still amazed how I went from a tail light issue to a non running rig. As i said, the lights dont even come on with the ignition switch on now. A big bummer, yes, do i still love it, without a doubt. Its learning curve for me, and I am getting to know other members, searching the boards..

[Apis Mellifera]

A couple of things: the lights should work without the key on and in my SIII, the brake lights also work with the key off.

As I said before, it's really easy to get it running, if that is your goal: put power to the coil and turn the engine over; either via the hand crank or starter.

It sounds like you have some serious wiring issues. It's impossible for anyone to remotely test the various circuits, so you're going to have to dive in with a test light/DVM and a diagram. Luckily, the older the vehicle, the fewer the wires. I've found printing a copy of the diagram and tracing it with a highlighter makes it easier to keep the circuits straight. Good luck. I actually love wiring problems - easy to fix and satisfying when the light finally lights.

[Billy5]

thank you for all the help. I am going for round two today. I figured something electrically would go awry at some point, just not in my third week of ownership. It was running the champ before this. Thankfully, not alot has been mucked with, no accessories tied in all over, although it has the gm alternator conversion. I just hope I can see the wire colors, the bible the letters are so damn small. Whats getting me the most ( other than being a newbie), is i am not getting power through the truck. So testing maybe daunting..I will get there.

[amcordo]

There really aren't that many electrical connections in this truck. Just be patient and make a list of connections to check via the wiring diagram. If you're willing to do it all right - go to each connection, undo it a little, clear it of debris and rust, and smear some dialectric grease on it. If it's your third week, future you will appreciate cleaning the connections thoroughly now.

[stomper]

I don't know if this helps, but on my series IIA, the P.O. connected a spade connector incorrectly on the back of the ignition switch, and it caused my marker lights to light up whenever the key was turned on. Does the left marker light light up at all? You may have a burnt out bulb, and in actuallyity it is not just one lighting up, but both.

I would take everyone elses advice here and start cleaning and tightening all of the connections. I would start at the ignition switch though, as I bet this is where the problem is.