Weird no start/no power.

[Billy5]

Ah..the saga continues. Well I am getting pretty good at reading wiring diagrams..and the guys at RN are way helpful. The diagram was confusing me because as i followed wires on it, some go to a voltage regulator. I no longer have on, as it was converted. So, I am trying to figure out where did the wires that went to the regulator go. I have four greens on the switched fuse, and four on the other. One of these is supposed to be hot all the time ( unswitched). This i do not have. The switched fuse has power when the key is on, but the other has none. So, I jumped the switched fuse strip, to the one with no power, and she started. And, I really loved this one, both brake lights are on. But hey only one was on before ( the whole reason behind this mess.). the good news is, my oil light works ( it didnt before) and the cold start light ( that stays on though). So i am making progress I think. There was a question regarding the output of the alternator. From what the guys at RN told me, the wiring can handle up to 42 amps, the alternator is 60. So my concern could this cause a problem. The way i understand the diagram is, one of the fused strip goes the interior light, and thats it. The other has five whites, and four greens. So why do i have all the extra wires?

[Billy5]

Well it helps to have the right diagram. US fed standard. Didnt know about that one. Big difference. Still nothing yet, but hey. I put the gallon of gas away, along with the matches. Thank you RN, for sending me the right one. Now,wheres the for sale sign..

[Billy5]

Had quite a few AH HA moments. two of the three problems found, and fixed. Thank you guys again for the help!

[SafeAirOne]

...two of the three problems found, and fixed.

Details??

[Billy5]

Ok, well first things first. I wasn't great at reading diagrams. But I am now ( well not great but much better). I also didnt know what wires went where ( the whites), so I powered each one and traced it to the item it was powering ( cold start light not on, but I am not sure if it needs to be). The main culprit was intermittent power from the brown/blue to the ignition switch. The po did a gm alternator conversion, so the two wires that got connected together wasnt great. So i reconnected and poof power to the ignition switch and thereby power to the lower fuse strip. Once I did this, the brake lights ( both) lit up when I turned the key ( original problem except I only had one lit) The po installed an aftermarket brake light switch. When I poked my head under the dash where he installed it, one of the prongs was bent over making contact with the EXPOSED spade connector therby shorting it, send power to the rear lights. Since I had an intermittent power issues all along, that is why one lit and not both. That end of it is fixed. But now for another question. According to the diagram, one of the two fuses is constant hot, from the brown/blue. THis power the sockets on the dash and panel light switch. I could not find it. So i untaped the wiring for the alternator. There it was. THe po had this connected to the white wire from the alternator. There is also a lead from the battery. In my mind this tells me that the alternator is getting power from two sources, the battery and the brown. Am i correct in that thinking. The third wire is red, which was connected to the fuse strip. I started it up and checked for power from the alternator ( trace amount from the white, nothing from the red). The smaller red and the white come from a connector at the alternator. I am going to research that more on the boards. For now, i am going to run the brown back to the fuse strip to power the other fuse. At least thats what i am seeing in the diagram. I learned so much in the past few days, thank you guys!!

[Partsman]

http://www.series2club.info/diagrams/2A_petrol_pos.pdf Here's a wiring diagram, it may be of some help to sort this problem out, now keep in mind that this is how it SHOULD be, not how it may actually be. Who knows what changes the PO's have made over the years.

[Billy5]

Thank you, i have a diagram. I had one, but it was the wrong one. I have a US spec series 2a, i didnt know there was a different one for it. All the difference in the world. I have figured out the alternator wiring to ( i think). It has one red going from the battery to the post on the alternator. THen two wires from a connector. One red, and one white. The red was connected to the upper fuse strip ( where a brown, constant hot should be), and the white was connected to a brown constant hot ( approx 10g). The white should be connected to my ignition light or a switched power source. The red should go to battery. At least thats what I see.

[Billy5]

All fixed!! First experience with the electrical system on it. Overall, frustrating, but I learned a tremendous amount, thank you all again for the help. Hopefully I can return the favor!