Ford 289 in a 109. One cylinder gone. Back to 2.25?

[Apis Mellifera]

Yes, I saw that, but there is only one picture of a 5.0 engined Series.

[TeriAnn]

Yes, I saw that, but there is only one picture of a 5.0 engined Series.

Well 2 of the engine itself actually. One looking down after a EFI conversion and one from the front with the vehicle front clip removed. Sorry, I hadn't realized you were looking for 5.0 eye candy and not information on how to do the swap and end up with a reliable LR.

If you just want pictures of a Series with a 5.0 in it, my web site is full of them. as my truck has a 1968 302 with 1991 EFI.

[1967IPA]

Here's a few shots of the engine bay (Apis)

I'm wishing the PO had done a better job of cutting/fabbing these footwells properly.

Yes, you can actually see the flywheel in the gap of the adapter. Not too sure about that one.

Overall, it's just SUPER tight in there with the panels + trans cowls + manifolds on the block. If I can't get to a spark plug, that's a problem.

TeriAnn - you modified these panels, I would imagine? If so, would you happen to have any images for reference?

Cheers,
Michael

[TeriAnn]

Overall, it's just SUPER tight in there with the panels + trans cowls + manifolds on the block. If I can't get to a spark plug, that's a problem.

TeriAnn - you modified these panels, I would imagine? If so, would you happen to have any images for reference?

Mine has lots of room around the spark plugs. The engine sits closer to the frame centre line and the stock steering box is removed (power steering box added to the frame near the radiator).

Sorry no pictures. What I do have is step by step instructions, including dimensions, describing what has to be cut and new metal added. Anyone who can cut & weld should be able to easily follow the description.

For example:

"In order to fit the larger American V8 bellhousing and to centre the engine more within the frame, the bulkhead has to be modified for more clearance in the bellhousing indentation. A small block V8 will need a bulkhead indentation that is 3 inches wider to the right and an inch higher clearance where the bellhousing passes through.

The bell housing clearance indentation needs to be modified to allow centring of the V8 engine and space for the larger bellhousing. For my bulkhead, a vertical cut was made near the centre of the indentation. Next the welds that held the right side of the indentation to the rest of the bulkhead were carefully removed allowing the removal of the right half of the bulkhead indentation. A new cut in the bulkhead was made three inches to the right of the edge of the stock bulkhead indentation edge that carefully followed the factory cut. The edges were formed and the right half of the indentation panel was welded back into place along the new cut three inches to the right of where it was previously positioned. A three inch wide flat sheet of steel was welded into place to cover the new three inch gap between the right and left sides of the bell housing indentation. At this point the the bell housing indentation looked factory stock but was three inches wider on the right side.

The new edge of the indentation comes to the edge of the Kodiak heater mounting flange. The heater did not need to be moved or modified from it's original location. The end result as a indentation about 25 inches wide. This is plenty for a small block Ford or Chevy but a GM 6.2 V8 diesel will need an indentation about 29 inches wide which will require taking a couple inches off the already narrow left side foot well. The other option is having the engine sit forward of the stock indentation and use a Defender front radiator support and bonnet.

The Ford or Chevy bell housing needs more clearance along the bottom edge of the bell housing indentation than the stock Rover one does. The horizontal flange that goes into the passenger compartment was cut out. One inch of metal was cut out of the bell housing indentation along the top of this cut and the flange was welded back into place. Basically the stock shape was retained but it now sits one inch higher and three inches wider.

This completes the bulkhead modifications."

[Apis Mellifera]

Anyone who can cut & weld should be able to easily follow the description.

Well, I've been welding and wrenching for about a quarter century, including building a Locost, and I don't know about anyone else, but I like pictures. The old adage "a picture is worth a thousand words" is an old adage because it's true.

I'll take a poorly written but illustrated description over one penned by Shakespeare himself any day.


1967IPA: Do you have a picture of the exhaust prior to disassembly? It looked as though yours had a U bend in the pipe. Also, did you have the stock steering box? Pictures of that area?

Thanks,
Matt

[1967IPA]

Apis -

The exhaust manifolds were mounted flipped. In other words, the exhaust pipes dumped out the front of the block and then down. A u-shaped turn down, if you will. I think that would be a headache to re-mount in this fashion, since the gaskets would have to be hacked up to make space for the spark plugs after mounting on the opposite sides. All this hacking!! I think it would may be wiser to go with the Falcon exhaust manifolds that dump straight down against the block and then y-pipe it after that.

I do have the stock steering box location - no changes there, although there's a remote oil filter mounted to the wing just above the steering linkage. Not sure an image would help ya. You can see the frame is notched to accommodate the oil cooler hose elbows. That remote filter hose then runs out the grill into an oil cooler mounted to the front apron. I have a sneaking suspicion this thing ran hot. I'm going to have the radiator flushed/boiled out - there's tons of mineral deposits clogging up the interior.

-Michael