Ripped the Band Aid off! Build Thread and Advice Sought.

[I Leak Oil]

You don't often get to hear lambaste used in a sentence.

mmmm.....I like basted lamb.....

[albersj51]

... Any damn fool can open a checkbook order a bunch of brand new parts and assemble them.

Hey! I resemble that remark!

[stonefox]

I thought this was a perfect opportunity to plug the very solid 109 5 door frame I have sitting in my yard for sale.Its not perfect but it sure has a lot of good miles left in ...... I know shameless ... completely shameless..

[o2batsea]

Do I care?

[PH4]

Pressure washed the bulkhead today. Not too awful/bad. Also checked the wings under the tread plate. Couple of holes but think they will be fixable to what i want in the wings. The second photo is the top of the dash below the vent openings.

[PH4]

Was a FFR apparently in original skin.

[I Leak Oil]

That's a hideous sight! You should let me take it off your hands so you are no longer burdened with it.

Pressure washed the bulkhead today. Not too awful/bad.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]6523[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]6524[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]6525[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]6526[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]6527[/ATTACH]

[PH4]

That's a hideous sight! You should let me take it off your hands so you are no longer burdened with it.

I have to say that I was pleasantly surprised with the relative good shape that it was in after removal. I have waxoxlyed my Rovers every year so I bet that has made a big difference. By the way, anyone know a company that does Chem stripping in the Charleston, SC area?

[LH Drive]

My rover has never seen salt as its originally a south west rover. I dont' think my chassis was going to break apart in the next 8-10 years even if I did nothing to it and as long as I keep it of the winter salted roads. Have a similar described chassis as yours and was going the hot dipped route but after adding up the total cost, its not far off from buying a new galvi one if I farm out all the labor.
Had to cut off the front 3 inches of the front horns where there was rot. That opened up the frame and to my suprise I could see nice solid metal inside the chassis with a flash light. After the metal repair I decided to go the DIY route instead and use POR15. Wirewheeled the surface rust and used chem stripper on the original chassis paint. After I had it all stripped down to bare steel it was degreased twice, dried, zinc metal prepped and let it dry a couple days. Then brushed on 2 coats of the POR15 starting with one thin first coat as instructed. It was a labor of love and in just a few days I was done. Just finished it yesterday
The inside of the chassis will get 4 rattle cans of Waxoyl treatment.
What ever you decide to do i'm sure you'll be happy with. Chris

[madp]

By the way, anyone know a company that does Chem stripping in the Charleston, SC area?

I came across this place after I hand stripped my chassis. I have not used them but their sign says they do chemical stripping.

American Stripping Co.
3824 South Okatie Highway
Hardeeville, SC 29927
(843) 784-2932

[PH4]

My rover has never seen salt as its originally a south west rover. I dont' think my chassis was going to break apart in the next 8-10 years even if I did nothing to it and as long as I keep it of the winter salted roads. Have a similar described chassis as yours and was going the hot dipped route but after adding up the total cost, its not far off from buying a new galvi one if I farm out all the labor.
Had to cut off the front 3 inches of the front horns where there was rot. That opened up the frame and to my supprise I could see nice solid metal inside the chassis with a flash light. After the metal repair I decided to go the DIY route instead and use POR15. Wirewheeled the surface rust and used chem stripper on the original chassis paint. After I had it all stripped down to bare steel it was degreased twice, dried, zinc metal prepped and let it dry a couple days. Then brushed on 2 coats of the POR15 starting with one thin first coat as instructed. It was a labor of love and in just a few days I was done. Just finished it yesterday
The inside of the chassis will get 4 rattle cans of Waxoyl treatment.
What ever you decide to do i'm sure you'll be happy with. Chris

After going over it again last weekend, I do not believe the chassis requires to be galvanized and would be fine using POR 15 or regular paint, however, the Rover will be used mainly in the Fall and Winter on often very muddy logging roads and the extra piece of mind I should get with a galvanized chassis may be worth it. I realize that Galvanized chassis will rust and needs to be hosed off but it will be more robust than regular chassis. I have had the Rover for 17 years on two continents so I doubt I will sell it anytime soon plus I really do not want to think about doing this again in the next 15 years. But it is tempting to leave as is and not remove engine/suspension etc. By the way any tips/tricks for removing bushings in chassis? Sounds horrible from the little bit I have heard about it.

[o2batsea]

If you can get the shackle bolt out, the rest is easy. Use a propane/mapp torch and point it thru the bushing sleeve. In no time the rubber will soften and you can push the inner sleeve out with a big screwdriver. If you continue to hold the flame to it, the rubber will burn away and then you can chisel out the outer sleeve. Alternately you can take a sawzall to the outer sleeve with a metal blade and cut just thru the shell. then it will tap out with the above mentioned big screwdriver.
The burning method requires the least effort but is awfully smelly.

[PH4]

Anyone have a suggestion for replacement of all the nuts and bolts? Instead of me going back and forth to the hardware store which does not have good fastners is there a kit someone sells? A list of sizes so I can purchase prior? Should I use all galvanized fastners? These may be ignorant questions but on projects in the past I have spent a lot of time going back and forth to the hardware store and they never have the correct fastners. Advice appreciated.

[Jim-ME]

I do the same thing as far as running back and forth to the hardware store so I'm not going to be much help with bolt sizes. I have replaced every bolt I've taken out with SS and the more I read it looks like I'm creating more problems than I solve. I'm going on advise from a friend in the Rover business and I'm going back to galvanized fasteners with SS nuts. The bolts may rust but I should be able to get the nuts off and hopefully my aluminum won't be as adversely affected.
Jim

[albersj51]

I am using grade 8 anodized bolts everywhere I can. I'd buy packages from mcmaster, www.mcmaster.com, in 5/16" and 1/4", wrench size 1/2" and 7/16" Those two size cover most things. I'd get various lengths from 1/2" to 2" long. You'll have left overs, but still cheaper and more efficient than going to the hardware store. Probably need the 1-1 1/2" the most. Quantity is hard to say. You'll order a few hundred. As for thread count, I think i'm using mostly course.