Ripped the Band Aid off! Build Thread and Advice Sought.

[PH4]

I am using grade 8 anodized bolts everywhere I can. I'd buy packages from mcmaster, www.mcmaster.com, in 5/16" and 1/4", wrench size 1/2" and 7/16" Those two size cover most things. I'd get various lengths from 1/2" to 2" long. You'll have left overs, but still cheaper and more efficient than going to the hardware store. Probably need the 1-1 1/2" the most. Quantity is hard to say. You'll order a few hundred. As for thread count, I think i'm using mostly course.

Thank you Albersj51. I believe MercedesRover just replaced all nuts and bolts on his 109. MercedesRover, do you recall about how many nuts bolts you used?

[stonefox]

So, I think grade 8 are good for some apps. like bulkhead to frame ,spring hangers , but in general grade 5 would suffice.Although I dig the yellow coating I think 8"s are over kill for seat box and sheet metal to sheet metal apps . Correct me if I'm wrong but very few originals were 8's.
I think never seizing it well and washing your truck regularly goes a long way for corrosion resistance. Also using bolts that are not too much longer than the nut make for a much easier nut removal in the future.

[gudjeon]

I know a lot of places only stock stuff in Grade 8 as it is virtually the same price as stuff in Grade 5. I like to use fine thread with flat and lock washer against the nut. It is like the original and doesn't come loose with vibration.

[PH4]

Will grade 8 or other grade anodized fastners cause any issues with the aluminum bits? I use copious amounts of the copper anti-seize on the threads.

[gudjeon]

Probably no more than other stuff. The zinc plated doesn't last that long out in the elements. For body tub, etc, I used galvanized flat washers for my nuts/bolts. I got them from the hardware store. they are used for constructing docks with pressure treated wood. They are not a great quality, but they do not contribute to holding strength. Never seize is excellent on everything, but head bolts. I used to use this in a machine shop where I used to work. Its the only thing that made parts serviceable after a few years in underground hard rock mines.

[albersj51]

Totally agree...grade 8 is overkill and most of the bolts were originally less than grade 5, I'm guessing. The price difference per bolt is small, but it adds up quick! Also, the chromium/zinc coating (yellow), lasts longer than zinc plating, but not as long as galvanizing.

If you go with galvanized, try tractor supply. The one here in greenville has them and sells them by the pound.

So, I think grade 8 are good for some apps. like bulkhead to frame ,spring hangers , but in general grade 5 would suffice.Although I dig the yellow coating I think 8"s are over kill for seat box and sheet metal to sheet metal apps . Correct me if I'm wrong but very few originals were 8's.
I think never seizing it well and washing your truck regularly goes a long way for corrosion resistance. Also using bolts that are not too much longer than the nut make for a much easier nut removal in the future.

[PH4]

What are pros and cons of going with fine thread over regular thead?

[crankin]

When replaced my bolts, I went with Grade 8. I used more 7/16th than 1/2, I think it was close to about a 75-100 on the 7/16 and maybe about 50 on the 1/2.

You can get a grade 8 in a plain finish, which is black. But the gold (zinc plated) will resist rust a little more. Yes, you could go with a grade 5 or 3 if you want. But, if you are going through all this trouble...put a little more money ($45-$60 more) and go overboard.

[JimCT]

Copper is a big no no with aluminum, eats it for breakfast. Far apart on the galvanic scale.

Will grade 8 or other grade anodized fastners cause any issues with the aluminum bits? I use copious amounts of the copper anti-seize on the threads.

[PH4]

Wow. That's the first time I have ever heard that copper ant-seize will harm the aluminum. Great stuff though. Is there an alternative that works well?

[stomper]

Yes, it is the silver colored antiseize. it has aluminum in it.

[gudjeon]

You can get silvery nickel High heat never seize, coppery greasy type never seize, and cheap graphite based stuff from Loctite and permatex. It all works better than using nothing. For the money, I go with the graphite based stuff for all body/chassis stuff. For high heat, the copper. You can spend the extra bucks if you want if you think think things are hot enough to use nickel. I have never seeen anything steel/copper rot off due to copper never seize being used on threads.

[JimCT]

graphite

Graphite is as bad or worse than copper. Just look at the galvanic scale to see what is safe and works. Aluminum is pretty much at the bottom of the list.

You can get silvery nickel High heat never seize, coppery greasy type never seize, and cheap graphite based stuff from Loctite and permatex. It all works better than using nothing. For the money, I go with the graphite based stuff for all body/chassis stuff. For high heat, the copper. You can spend the extra bucks if you want if you think think things are hot enough to use nickel. I have never seeen anything steel/copper rot off due to copper never seize being used on threads.

[gudjeon]

Someone has not told my Landrover about this scale, as it has been on threads for many years and hasn't rotted anything off. This, and the cap full of powdered graphite in all the gearcases that make things run quieter. That, and its GL-5. And its a series1. sometimes life is not worth splitting hairs.

[PH4]

Accomplished a good bit this weekend and will post photos as soon as I can fix issue with photos. This week the engine and transmission will be removed together. I am going to Harbor Freight to get a 1 ton shop crane for the job. What is the best way to hook crane to engine and trans and what did you use to do so?

Do/should I need to remove steering components before engine? Any major issues I should watch out for problems etc. the only thing left on chassis at this point is engine, trans, springs, axles, wheels, steering components.