Got My Lightweight!! Stay Tuned for Project Updates and Plenty of Questions!

[jac04]

...things are starting to come together....

[Tim Smith]

It's amazing. Looking at your tub, now I know why there are two big spots of bondo on mine. The PO must have been trying to hide the rivets on the front lower section where the bottom of the door meets up.

At least I hope that's why.

Looking good as always!

[jac04]

It's starting to take shape........

[xsbowes]

I see you are not using the rear military lights. What country was your lightweight from? Mines a '72 SIII LHD Ex-MOD from Canada but I only have 1 red light on each side.

[jac04]

No military lights, maybe later, but my lenses were in rough shape and replacements were going to be very expensive. So I decided to use the Defender lights. I don't know what country mine is from. The second red light on each side is a rear fog light.

[JackIIA]

Jac -

Nice. Perfection, as always. What about curing issues, if any? As I remember, you're using Rustoleum products for the bits in black. I've been getting a fair amount of scratches on this paint when reassembling. But, I know you paint while keeping temp around 70 or higher, which I have not necessarily done. However, I have let cure times run well into the weeks before reassembly. Curious if the temps, then, have made a big difference.

Also, did you use hardeners for the desert storm paint? These shots are huge motivators. Thanks as always.

[jac04]

The Rustoleum black paint will stay soft for quite a while - like over a month, even keeping the parts warm. Most parts that I am reassembling were painted several months ago, so I haven't had too many paint issues, although don't expect powder coat durability out of the Rustoleum paint.

I didn't use any hardener in the Gillespie tan paint because it tends to add too much gloss (or so I am told). I have been very pleased with how well the paint has cured, even though it has only been in the 60s here. I painted on Friday, and now the paint seems fully cured (can't dent it with a fingernail).

[sailtech]

Outstanding work! Did you have the galvanized bits re-galvanized?

[jac04]

^^No, they had quite a few layers of military paint on them , so they were very well preserved.

[jac04]

The bulkhead is now on the chassis, complete with the wiring harness and brake & clutch systems. All hydraulics are full of GTLMA fluid and completely bled.

[TJR]

Very Nice work... It looks great...
Does the Mower ever have a chance to get used? LOL

[jac04]

...one front hub is back together. The drum isn't on yet, obviouslysure it's machined correctly. I'll start a new thread to ask the question.

[Moose]

It's starting to take shape........

Interesting the way your license plate light is mounted upside down. I've not seen one done that way before. All the Ltwt's around here (and 101's) have the light on the tailgate (the lower half) with the plate mounted on a swinging metal bracket so the plate still hangs properly when the tailgate is open. To remove the tailgate, a single wire to the light also needs to be unplugged.

Brett

[Nium]

What are you running in that wall of the garage that you need 3 "High Voltage" warning signs. Must be one heck of an arc welder you are using.

The rebuild is looking good. It's just so odd to see a clean and shiny Land Rover kinda hard for me to wrap my head around at times.

[ktom300]

Interesting the way your license plate light is mounted upside down. I've not seen one done that way before. All the Ltwt's around here (and 101's) have the light on the tailgate (the lower half) with the plate mounted on a swinging metal bracket so the plate still hangs properly when the tailgate is open. To remove the tailgate, a single wire to the light also needs to be unplugged.

Brett

Like mine. Funny, I didn't know why the plate had a hinge unitl I read your post.