The plot tickens (series III backfire/idle, brakes)

[NickDawson]

I'll second that. I discovered my bad voltage reg by running out of gas with 1/4 tank indicated. Same symptoms you had.

Interesting!
Had not thought to link the two... but with the charge light on and the tank reading 1/4, it really might be that simple.

I'll report tonight when go for the rescue mission. If that fails, then we'll see how many horsepower I have as I try and push it home

[rbonnett]

Being that you are new to the truck, I'd suggest checking to make sure you have gas. Gauges can be finicky sometimes.

I'll second that. I discovered my bad voltage reg by running out of gas with 1/4 tank indicated. Same symptoms you had.

[Nium]

You probably need to make a blood sacrifice and bow 5 times toward Solihull and offer up prayers to the Rover Gods while sprinkling EP90 on the driveway.

[Tim Smith]

Being that you are new to the truck, I'd suggest checking to make sure you have gas. Gauges can be finicky sometimes.

[NickDawson]

well...
After 4 days of running like a top, it just died about 6 blocks from home

I was driving about 25 mph, it bucked hard like it had been dropped into 1st and then stalled and will not restart.

I had been running errands and stopped and started a few times, no issues. The only other thing I did today was install an inverter - but that did not even require lifting the hood (I already had a 12 gauge wire from the battery and and another from the ignition switch for the relay)... although I did notice earlier today that the charge light was on during idle and the ammeter showed about 11V - both problems were fixed by a light touch of the accelerator.

I'm going to let it sit for an hour and hope that it was just vapor locked or something... but if not I'll test the alternator - but the starter motor is turning over fine, the battery is at least charged.

[NickDawson]

Brief post mortem (once a consultant, the business speak sticks with you)

First the good:
The engine is tuned in really well - I'm very pleased. In fact, the idle is so smooth when I put the clutch in to come to a stop it feels/sounds like the engine has cut out. The MPG is greatly improved (anecdotal at this point) and it just feels like its running better.

Root cause - blown fuel shutoff relay causing the solenoids in the carb not to function properly. After all that tinkering with timing, points, carb cleaning, throttle cable...it was a damned relay. Not sure I'd have ever found that, but I'll be sure to check it in the future.

The steering is improved, although he was concerned about the astronomical amount of weight that the tire shop put on to balance it. Apparently he was right and the brakes were sticking and causing the darty steering.

The so-so:
The brakes are good, but not great. He expressed that concern when I picked it up. He thinks the power assist is completely gone, something we can confirm by pumping the brakes and hearing the vacuum leak affect the engine.

I realize that probably raises a huge red flag - it does for me as well. It stops well, but there is a lot of travel in the pedal. I question if the power assist would change the travel, or if we still have the wrong MC for the swapped 109 front in this thing?

I'm game to tackle the power servo myself unless someone tells me that is more complicated than I expect - seems like a part swap.

Slack in the drive train - I've always noticed a little slap when engaging 1st or 2nd quickly. My AWD sedan does that as part of design to prevent wheel slippage...I've noticed it on tons of old trucks and never thought anything of it. The mechanic thinks there is about 1/2 a turn of play in the drive shaft and suggests its indicative a problem in the rear diff. Anyone have any thoughts on that one?

The Bad:
There is still the crack in the exhaust manifold. Its not causing any noticable performance issues and I'm going to live with it a while.


All in all, I'm really happy to have it back and drivable. There are some things to consider in the next few months but nothing that seems to be preventing me from enjoying it now.

Thanks for the patience and support gang - this board has been a wonderful resource (as I'm sure it will continue to be) - I'm especially thankful for everyone putting up with my frustrations. I'll say this, I know a heck of a lot more about mechanics than I did 6 months ago. (enough to be dangerous now )

[bmohan55]

Look forward to meeting you. My wife is VERY worried about the parts swap...mmm maybe I should bring a trailer!

[NickDawson]

If it's the bolts on the downpipe he's worried about they may be re-tapped to a larger size, I had to do that with mine, brittle metal but it can be done. BTW waiting 4 weeks for wheel cylinders? tell him about a place called Rovers North, I was able to get my wheel cylinders in 2 days...but maybe I just got lucky!

If you need to feed your Land Rover Jones why don't you come out to MAR anyways, believe all you would need to do is pay dues and sign a waiver. Then you can hang out with very knowledgeable Series owners (I'm not including myself in that group) and learn. I'm sure you would get plenty of offers to ride along as we could always use another person to help push.

I don't want to pit the two against each other, but lets just say he pointed the finger somewhere on the parts delay... Truthfully, there are always two sides and I really don't care. That has not been my experience with our hosts and wont influence my future shopping decisions.

I'll tackle the exhaust some other time, either by taking it somewhere or relegating myself to parking it and doing the work myself. The mechanic and I discussed it and we both think its an approachable repair, just a matter of who and when. He is also confident that it is not causing any other problems and should not get any worse. Actually, when the block heats up, the leak goes away (there's that thermal expansion business)

I'm going to pick it up tonight - I could come as a spectator but it'd be too painful Its not that I feel the need to trash the truck on a trail, but to go and not have it with me would stink. But like Bertha and BMohan55 said - I really am just excited to be there, I'll be all over the place with my camera and wife in tow (you'll recognize us b/c she'll have my wallett and be lagging behind with a very concerned look on her face).

[Bertha]

Nick you should go to MAR anyway

If you need to feed your Land Rover Jones why don't you come out to MAR anyways, believe all you would need to do is pay dues and sign a waiver. Then you can hang out with very knowledgeable Series owners (I'm not including myself in that group) and learn. I'm sure you would get plenty of offers to ride along as we could always use another person to help push.

That is a great suggestion. When I had gone down to MAR years back, I ended up driving my truck for a short while, but there were so many great folks down there, I ended up parking my truck and riding in everyone elses truck.

[bmohan55]

If it's the bolts on the downpipe he's worried about they may be re-tapped to a larger size, I had to do that with mine, brittle metal but it can be done. BTW waiting 4 weeks for wheel cylinders? tell him about a place called Rovers North, I was able to get my wheel cylinders in 2 days...but maybe I just got lucky!

If you need to feed your Land Rover Jones why don't you come out to MAR anyways, believe all you would need to do is pay dues and sign a waiver. Then you can hang out with very knowledgeable Series owners (I'm not including myself in that group) and learn. I'm sure you would get plenty of offers to ride along as we could always use another person to help push.

[kevkon]

Nick, do yourself a favor and let the mechanic tackle it. If you are not happy with his performance, find another. Replacing an origional exhaust manifold is usually never a fun job. Remember, it's not just the manifold that must be removed. As for an epoxy patch, it would depend on where the crack is and how severe it is. I have an industrial epoxy that will work under extreme heat, but thermal expansion and contraction are another story.

[Nium]

If there is a concern of shearing off bolts have new ones on hand to replace any that do break. Plus, if they're that bad looking maybe you should get new ones to replace the old anyway.

Is JB Weld even rated for the temperature of an exhaust manifold?

[NickDawson]

Sorry to hear its taken so long. Dont go the JB Weld route, find a used manifold if you want to save some $$$ or pony up the 276.00 for a new one from our hosts.

Actually, $276.00 doesnt sound too bad - maybe a winter project. The biggest fear is the bolts sheering off. At least that's his biggest fear and I suspect he may be on to something. Again, that makes it great idea for a long winter project.

Anyone have concerns about letting it go until winter or using JB in the mean time?

[Bertha]

I'm going to get it back as soon as I can, leak and all, and deal with that some other time (JB wield?).

Frustrated but trying to remember how much fun it is when it does run....

Sorry to hear its taken so long. Dont go the JB Weld route, find a used manifold if you want to save some $$$ or pony up the 276.00 for a new one from our hosts.

[NickDawson]

Brief update - my guy finally got the wheel cylinders in but has not finished installing them. Due to my schedule this week, tonight was my only window to pick it up before the Mid Atlantic Rally this weekend. Such is life, but I'm bummed.

In the mean time he did nothing to tackle the exhaust leak which he now states is a large crack and blown gasket. I told him he had it for 4 weeks and could have done that any time while waiting on parts. I'm going to get it back as soon as I can, leak and all, and deal with that some other time (JB wield?).

Frustrated but trying to remember how much fun it is when it does run....