The plot tickens (series III backfire/idle, brakes)

[NickDawson]

Galen - I took it to a guy in Lynchburg whom I know well and who knows Series. As I mentioned in another thread, by way of marrage he is connected to one of Virginia's great Rover families. It was a tough call to have to towed down there, but it was the only resource I had at the time.

I'd love to have the name of your shop in C-Ville, much easier!

[galen216]

Ah yes, there is a large Rover contingent in Lynchburg.

Ben doesn't really have a shop name per se, but I'll be happy to pm you his phone #.

[Nium]

Basics

Timing

I wrote

You want the points to open just after the piston has moved a few degrees past TDC so it pushes the piston down on the power stroke and not backwards into the compression stroke.

After reviewing this statement I realized it was a little off. You actually want the points to open at 6 degrees BTDC (Before Top Dead Center) not after TDC. The reason being that by firing just before TDC the air/fuel mixture starts to burn and the momentum of the engine carries the piston past TDC at which point the air/fuel mixture is fully burning to give the most oomph to pushing the piston down in the power stroke.

The broken center electrode in the dizzy cap is a new one. How did ya manage to get the cap on crooked? Hope ya had fun on the long drive and were able to glean some useful info from the mechanic.

Cheers!

[NickDawson]

After getting it purring like a kitten (or maybe a kitten with emphysema) the shop took it for a test drive. They have since decided that the breaks, despite solid pedal are not as effective as they would like. They are also concerned about the darty steering - something I noticed but got accustomed to (most of the rovers I have driven are like that).

The latest update is that they want to replace all the wheel cylinders with the thought that some were sticking and some not extending fully - solving both problems. They are the experts, but it strikes me as an odd thing. I checked them previously and only found one to have slight corrosion. Didn't notice any sticking, but its entirely plausible and would account for the poorer than expected gas mileage.

My only concern is that they may be chasing the wrong problem - someone mentioned that given the upgraded front wheels and brakes that the new dual cylinder MC I installed may be insufficient. I passed that comment along to the shop - have to trust they know more than I do (and we all know that to be the case )

They also made a comment about a bad relay to the fuel pump - I had good solid pressure and they had it running, so I'm not sure what that was about.

Out of curiosity - why would someone replace the front wheels with the larger ones including the brakes? Is it just for braking performance?

I've also decided to let them fix the exhaust manifold leak - in for a penny...

I'd love to see it again before the Mid Atlantic Rally - but at this point, they seem to find something new every day. I trust them not to do unnecessary work for revenue's sake, but hope they aren't missing some rover-centric solution to the problem(s).

Fingers crossed - I'll keep everyone posted.

[Tim Smith]

I can't remember. Is this a rover specialist shop? If not then just be careful that they aren't trying to turn this into a modern performer.

Rover shop or not, make sure you get the total estimate before going ahead with it. You might find yourself in a big shock after all is said and done.

Good luck!

[NickDawson]

I can't remember. Is this a rover specialist shop? If not then just be careful that they aren't trying to turn this into a modern performer.

Rover shop or not, make sure you get the total estimate before going ahead with it. You might find yourself in a big shock after all is said and done.

Good luck!

Been pleasantly surprised so far - Expected a whopper - with the ignition and brakes sorted I'm about $200 - less than I spent on tools for tinkering. I expect the exhaust manifold leak to be much worse.

They are not a rover shop per se, but have quite a bit of experience (so I'm told)- The owner of the shop drives an old British sports car, so he's not totally stuck in today's mindset.

[Nium]

See you still can't spell brakes.

What did they find was the issue with the engine running like crap?

[Nium]

Out of curiosity - why would someone replace the front wheels with the larger ones including the brakes? Is it just for braking performance?

Yes, better braking. Same reason some vehicles are fitted with disc brakes in the front and drums in the rear.

[NickDawson]

See you still can't spell brakes.

What did they find was the issue with the engine running like crap?

kut me some slack
You believe that I was an English major? I'm hopeful that I'll get the rover back some time this week.

While I'm waiting, I think I'm going to turn my attention to refinishing the hard top.... but thats a topic for another thread.

[Nium]

Old Parts

Get all your old parts back from the mechanic. Then you can rebuild them or at least take them apart and see how they work and you won't have to worry about damaging them.

[NickDawson]

Brief update - my guy finally got the wheel cylinders in but has not finished installing them. Due to my schedule this week, tonight was my only window to pick it up before the Mid Atlantic Rally this weekend. Such is life, but I'm bummed.

In the mean time he did nothing to tackle the exhaust leak which he now states is a large crack and blown gasket. I told him he had it for 4 weeks and could have done that any time while waiting on parts. I'm going to get it back as soon as I can, leak and all, and deal with that some other time (JB wield?).

Frustrated but trying to remember how much fun it is when it does run....

[Bertha]

I'm going to get it back as soon as I can, leak and all, and deal with that some other time (JB wield?).

Frustrated but trying to remember how much fun it is when it does run....

Sorry to hear its taken so long. Dont go the JB Weld route, find a used manifold if you want to save some $$$ or pony up the 276.00 for a new one from our hosts.

[NickDawson]

Sorry to hear its taken so long. Dont go the JB Weld route, find a used manifold if you want to save some $$$ or pony up the 276.00 for a new one from our hosts.

Actually, $276.00 doesnt sound too bad - maybe a winter project. The biggest fear is the bolts sheering off. At least that's his biggest fear and I suspect he may be on to something. Again, that makes it great idea for a long winter project.

Anyone have concerns about letting it go until winter or using JB in the mean time?

[Nium]

If there is a concern of shearing off bolts have new ones on hand to replace any that do break. Plus, if they're that bad looking maybe you should get new ones to replace the old anyway.

Is JB Weld even rated for the temperature of an exhaust manifold?

[kevkon]

Nick, do yourself a favor and let the mechanic tackle it. If you are not happy with his performance, find another. Replacing an origional exhaust manifold is usually never a fun job. Remember, it's not just the manifold that must be removed. As for an epoxy patch, it would depend on where the crack is and how severe it is. I have an industrial epoxy that will work under extreme heat, but thermal expansion and contraction are another story.