What did you do to your Rover today?
Collapse
X
-
-
2. Does anyone have a picture of a left hand drive model where the steering column attaches to the support that goes between the bulkhead and the frame? It would be a pic you'll have laying around because I need to see the whole thing without the wing on. ...can't remember how that whole area sets up...Last edited by TriedStone; 06-12-2010, 09:05 AM.Comment
-
--Mark
1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel
0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
(9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).Comment
-
More Painting...
A few days ago I went at my exhaust manifold with some Naval Jelly (or the Rustoleum equivalent of it) followed by a good wire brushing, till I could see only shiny cast iron. Painted it using some 1500-degree paint. Also painted the engine mounts, alternator mount and injector lines with the regular 500-degree paint:
Prepped and painted the rest of the engine. Prepping has got to be the worst part of this entire engine overhaul--I honestly despise it!
End result:
Now for the tricky part--curing the 1500-degree paint on the exhaust manifold. I need to figure out a time when my wife is at work where I can throw the manifold in our oven for 30 minutes at 300 degrees, let it cool for 30 minutes, then do 30 minutes at 450 and have the whole house smelling normal by the time she gets home...--Mark
1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel
0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
(9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).Comment
-
I've got all of the original door skins still. I had them chemically dipped with the frames, and then sent the frames on to the galvanizer. I just have to re-wrap the skins around the frames and paint them and I'm good to go!
Just a side note: galvanizing adds considerable weight to the parts.Comment
-
Nope I did a TON of parts. The only part that warped at all was this dumb little cover that goes over one of the holes in the bulkhead. I'll be able to put it back into shape though. None of the door frames, nor the hood frame warped which makes me very happy. It'll be great to open the hood and see a sturdy frame holding it and the spare above my head while I tool around in the engine bay!Comment
-
Today I did removed my fuel tank from the old frame, sand, clean and painted it. I then installed it on the new frame.
After that I began to remove some body panels. Maybe tomorrow I will remove the roof and the rear tub....
MartinComment
-
Looked up the VIN on my wagon today:
Model: Land Rover, Series IIA
Body type: NADA Station wagon
Wheel base: 109in
Engine: 6-cylinder
Model years: 1968-1971
Destination: Export, left-hand drive (LHD)00728Serial numberADesign: Unmodified
Suffix used on SIIA from October 1961 till March 1963, and on SIII from 1971 till 1973
It most certainly does not have a straight six in it anymore though I wondered because the bulkhead looked a little different. Also I think the 4 cylinder that is in there now is the lower compression one. And while removing yet more paint from the engine bay...I noticed that the engine mounts are some sort of sawed material painted black...cant tell if they are wood or some sort of rock hard plastic....definitely not stock....explains why the whole truck vibrates like it does when it runs.Comment
-
This afternoon I reinstalled the flat Smith's heater into my Lightweight. The PO had installed and removed a non-standard heater, but included the original heater as part of the sale. After many different wiring combinations, I finally got the two speed heater switch to work correctly. I know I shouldn't need the heater this time of year, but it was bothering me that it was missing.1979 Land Rover Half-Ton GSComment
-
1. Here is a picture of what I did with my rover today that will make some of you drool: http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pi...37&id=123022341979 Land Rover Half-Ton GSComment
-
Instaled the rear differential and shocks. Then I continued to remove parts from the old frame...
Comment
-
Many galvanizers will do the parts; I had to have them chemically stripped of paint and rust first at a seperate place. I used Columbus Galvanizing to do mine.
Chemical strip: $315
Some welding: $250
Galvanizing: $290Comment
-
Finally some alone time with my truck. Spent a few hours stripping paint, sanding, and hosing down the bare dash. Almost ready for some fresh paint there and then I can set my new fuse block and start rewiring. Figured I needed to get back at it after so many people hit me up to buy my truck at the neighborhood yard sale a few weeks ago.1966 IIa - ex-MOD, ex-FFR, ex-24v
1997 Discovery SE7 - I'm empty inside without herComment
-
separated the wheels from the rubber so i can blast them and give them a nice powder coating. Used a harbor freight tire changer, what a pain. Didn't help it was 85 out today either. I should have it bolted to the floor but i always move stuff around so a pallet and the fork lift to hold it down worked pretty well. I did punch my self in the forehead with the pry bar on the first tire, nice knot to talk about now. Also powder coated the swivel balls (see other thread) and did some coal slag blasting outside before it got way to hot to function. then had some beer to cool me down to top off the dayLast edited by masonater; 03-31-2011, 12:17 AM.1970 Series IIA 109 EX-MOD
1971 Series IIA 109 EX-MOD
1982 Mercedes 300TD
1989 RRC
1993 D110
1994 RRC LWB
1995 RRC SWB Brooklands Edition
1995 RRC LWB
1995 RRC LWB
1995 Disco
1996 GMC 2500 Suburban
1996 Disco
1997 Disco
2001 RR P38
2005 LR3 HSE
2006 RR HSEComment
Comment