Power Steering: Any DIYs? Worth the effort?

[Le Shed]

I am just at the end of doing this to my S3 109 SW with 200TDI,LT77,LT230
I used the following parts.
P38A Steering box
P38A intermediate column
P38 hoses (modded to fit).
P38 Rerservoir and bracket
200TDI PS pump. Type that uses a banjo bolt for high side
Defender upper steering column. Outer tube is modded with top of old column for needle bearing. Shortened and resplined to accept Series wheel and so that trim fits.
Custom tie rod as it is a lot further between the swivel bracket and the new P38 pitman arm.
Custom 3/8" plate that goes on outside of frame and then uses tubes for stengthening the 1/2" bolts that hold it to the frame. The two upper bolts hold the box to the plate. The lower front bolt screws into the tapped hole in the plate and the side of the frame. The lower aft bolt goes all the way through the frame, is also tubed, and secured on the inside of the frame. The tubes were done so that they were pushed through from the outside but butted up agains the frame on the inboard inside. Did not have to weld anything. Once all 6 1/2" bolts are tight the plate or box are not going anywhere.
An oddity of the P38 box is that when the box is centred the pitman arm is about 10-15 degrees towards the outside. The geometry is close but you will have more turns going right than left. This is normal.
The pump is fitted to the proper 200TDI plate and bracket. My 2.5 petrol has the bracket on it too.
I have a load of photos and sketches I can send you to make my explanation clearer. Beware this is not a cheap project even when you know all the pitfalls. One thing to remember is that when you make a modification at one end it goes down the line and seems to never stop. I do think this is worth doing. I have heard that PAS will break the swivel stops so you should also upgrade the bolts for them.
Good luck
Bill B

[tuko]

WOW, thanks for the replies.

Bill B has made one comment that warrants an immediate reply, "One thing to remember is that when you make a modification at one end it goes down the line and seems to never stop."........over 10 years ownership of this particular landy, one complete strip down, countless mods every summer, and the dreams/plans/ideas still continue to wreck havoc in my head. Oh and wreck havoc on the wallet.

My hybrid is like Kevin's purpose built on a Designa Coil Spring Chassis with the only difference of it being RHD. I can see the problems that you had Kevin with the Defender type PS box on the inside of the frame rail. But if you were jump over that for a minute, I'm wondering how much of an issue was the spring/turret mount? It looks tight in one of your pictures but I can't see if you had to use an angle grinder to do some trimming?

Matt many thanks for the pictures, they clearly showed me an issue that I was totally unaware of, the 4 mounting bolts spacing is wider that the depth of the frame rail. Custom fabrication is a favorite pass time for me so this is a challenge I'm looking forward to.

Bill, many thanks for the detailed description of your build. I'll send you a PM with my email address thats accepts 50mb emails (for images)

Two years ago I converted my landy to diesel, particularly a 300Di, a Defender 300Tdi without the turbo. Thanks to the surpintine belt I kept the power steering pump, ran two hoses to the PS fluid holder in front of the radiator. It basically circulates the fluid back and forth and it saved me the trouble of having to size/match up a serpentine belt to fit without the PS pump. With that said, thats one part of the build that I don't have to worry too much about.

Once again, many thanks for the pictures, descriptions, tips, and suggestions they have proved to be a gold mine of information.


Cheers,
Todd.

[tuko]

I should have added in my reply to Kevin, I see that the brake lines will need moving also. I never did like where they were placed and will be moving them to behind the front coils, hopefully in a place where they won't be in dangers way.

Here is a recent picture when I was out playing with some friends. The front brake lines are +2" and the mount on the frame was lowered 2" and still they are fully extended and exposed.

[KevinNY]

WOW, thanks for the replies.

But if you were jump over that for a minute, I'm wondering how much of an issue was the spring/turret mount? It looks tight in one of your pictures but I can't see if you had to use an angle grinder to do some trimming?


Cheers,
Todd.

Actually the spring bucket is no problem, close but no issues.

[tuko]

Awesome, thank you Kevin.

[junkyddog11]

these are photos of the P38 box on a leaf sprung rig. Not sure of the relevance as it will not work on a coiler.

That's pretty funny right there.......the P38 is a coiler. So, after looking at a coiler...... I think the P38 box would work just fine on a series hybrid and the crossmember would not have to be moved.

[greenmeanie]

That's pretty funny right there.......the P38 is a coiler. So, after looking at a coiler...... I think the P38 box would work just fine on a series hybrid and the crossmember would not have to be moved.

I ain't an expert but last time I looked the P38 was air sprung - hence all the heartache about airbags and compressors. It is true that it is commonly converted to coils but as designed it is not.

[junkyddog11]

I haven't had a P38 in my shop with air springs in years but technically I stand corrected.

[albersj51]

Thought I would bring this back...again.

I've got my 67 88" down to a rolling chassis and I am considering a new galvy frame. If I go that route, I'll need a new steering relay and new tie rods (since the ones on there look rough). That being said, if I were do to this power steering conversion would I still need the Series steering relay? I would assume no since the pitman arm would come off off the box and you get longer drag links to account for the different placement. Is this accurate? Could you also tie the power steering box into a series steering relay so you wouldnt have to get new, custom drag links?

Thanks!

Jason

[junkyddog11]

No on the series relay. yes on the custom drag link, which will need to have an end that works with whatever drop arm the steering box of choice uses. P38 box will use standard LR end.

[tuko]

Matt,
possibly you can answer this question for me with ref to custom drag links. I have a 2002 Defender front axle under my hybrid, using the P38 power steering box/pitman arm can I get away with simply ordering a standard issue P38 drag link?


BTW,
since last posting I've bought nearly all the necessary parts to get this conversion on it's way, other than the above part....to be continued.....


Cheers,
Todd.