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Late to thread. having driven a turner 2.25 with a variety of carbs and a decent running 2.5 NAD now (which should give you a fair approximation on a 200di). The acceleration off the line is slightly less with the 2.5, slightly. Where the 2.5 wins big time is the extra torque in mid to high RPMs. You do not slow down on hills anywhere near as much as the 2.25, I do slow down on highway hills with the 2.5 but slowing down to 55~60 versus 45~50 makes those hills less white knuckle driving. I would not go back to the 2.25 now that I have a nice 2.5. 25mpg is nice too. Unless I updated my brakes I do not want more engine than the 2.25.
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I know it's for a jeep, but someone did one in a 88.
It would move an 88 tweaked to 165hp...
EwSComment
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See , this is going way too far. As the poor bastard that started this mishagoss, my intention was a stop gap measure till I had the $$$ for my nice 200di.
I have done the whole POWER thing. I sold my last rover off for a unimog due to the bigger badder mentality.
I am acutely aware of the rover's weak links. The 200di is mildly better than a well tuned 2.25 and just as slow. I'm ok with that. If I wanted something more I would get a tracked thing form Howe and Howe in Maine. I want some thing I can use for a lifetime... mine.
I have the webber carb in now primarily due to their ease of tuning. I was just thinking outside the box .
The other reason for the upgrade was for access to power steering .... just the pump.
As a user and offroad trainer of winching skills , this past weekend at the winter romp and the 5 hours of recovery on the "kickass trail" I have had all I can have of the electric winch.
The thought process of taking mechanical energy and converting it to electricity then back to mechanical at the winch and attaching it all with thin ( 1/2 inch) heating elements .. read wire, is killing me.
I want my milemarker hydrolic winch back.
In the field they have never failed me.... ever. Never gets hot, no strain on the wiring ( Hi Lucas, you smoky bastard) works all day no questions asked.
Say all you want about any brand of electric winch, they all fail for the same reason.... heat, mostly due to duty cycle.
Anybody read the info sheet that comes with the winch? Holy crap, the amp draw even on a light load is 3 digits. How about a max pull ? in snow? up hill? weak batt? 63 amp alt? little bit of corrosion on the wires or terminals?
I will probably keep the webber and just save my pennies for the 200di.
Cheers to the lot of you for all your suggestions and help..
KrisWhence came you my brother ? From the East....Comment
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This is a highly debated topic. It's been my experience that if word liike 'hurst' 'muncy' 'quarter mile' etc are a major part of your automotive vocabulary, you need to adjust your driving habts downward a fair bit if you over power almost any part of a Land Rover drivetrain. I haven't ever found the need to uprate a series truck since they're just backroad plodders for me. I've never replaced a gearbox, or needed to rebuild one because of a failure I caused by pushing it. I have snapped a couple axle shafts in 35+ years, but that's really it. While concurrently owning very powerful cars at the same time as Landies, I change my shifting and 'foot' accordingly when I jump back in one of the series trucks. Many people claim synchros in LT77 and R380 gearboxes are weak, and begin to protest shifts early on. This isn't my experience. I cautioned my son years ago when I let him take my defender that he had to pretend there was an egg in between his hand and the gearshift lever. I fully engage the clutch before I put the ponies to it; no jolts, shocks or jerks, if you follow my thinking. The shock to the drivetrain is way less giving it the pedal when it's all coupled up, than having a lot of power on before it's coupled up. Within the limits of common sense upgraded engines, the torque is reasonably absorbed, but add the torsion of engaging the drivetrain with power 'on' is looking for an overhaul.Comment
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That is how the old series LR lasted for so long as they are slightly underpowered and you have to use your brains and gearing to do what you want. If I wanted to drive with just the accelerator pedal, I would have kept the '73 F250 3/4t 4x4 with the 427.
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Sure it could, was it designed to? no.
As for winches- KevinNY had a Power steering converision on his 2.25, There isn't any reason why someone couldn't duplicate that and run a hydraulic winch instead. I don't know why you'd want to when there are such nice PTO winches out there though.Comment
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Power issues and cheap parts
Well, I tuned the old girl today.....
The timing was off by 18 degrees. Bit of a power robber? The timing was originally done by me before the winter romp. Turns out the mark I was using was a spec of debris that reflected the timing light nicely. Looking closely I found the proper mark and was shocked at how far out it was....
Two things come to mind:
#1 holy crap , the engine still ran?
#2 not only ran but with 18 mpg and surviving the romp...Gotta love this engine, poor timing, age , runs on dirt and old gas...
The second thing I did under the bonnet was to see the new alternator bracket holding my new delco 10si was BROKEN. The weld( if you could call it that) , was broken and the part attached to the engine was only touching the part holding on to my shiny new alternator. At only 500 miles from install I am less than amused.
Took it to the local tractor repair place down the street. Old guy said a few choice words about poor craftsmanship and cheap welders, took it out back and 10 min later I had a welded bracket. Bugger was still hot.
I guess $80 for an alt bracket was not well spent.
Good news is the location being up on the top of the engine, the alt flapping in the breeze was easy to see.
I can't imagine what damage would have occurred if that thing had fallen into the spinning metal fan blade at highway speeds...
Well live and learn...Whence came you my brother ? From the East....Comment
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