Rear tub quarter replacement.....Success (I think)...Pictures of today's project!!!!!

[knac1234]

So, this will be this weekend's project. I will be replacing the right side quarter panel due to that riveted repair panel under the gas filler assembly and also corrosion around the circled riveted areas.

I have been advised from multiple sources to eliminate the Series III seatbelt reinforcement brackets.

Are those to be found behind the red circled areas? I am hoping to eliminate these sets of rivets.

The right side will be a new panel, but the left side I will have to cut out these sections (as the same corrosion exists in the same 3 areas), replace from panel from behind as did Martin on this board, and use a thin film of skim (could locate no LH panels anywhere).

Please let me know if all 3 red circled areas can be removed.

Thanks!
Julian

[crankin]

Yes. Those are the ones. You can go about removing them by hitting them with a chisel on the backside and then tap them out....or...drill them out. They are steel not aluminum. There are also some rivets on the tub that you will have to drill out.





In addition: the seat belt anchors (on the inside of the tub) are a real pain in the butt to remove. I had to cut a section of by tub out and drop them that way.

[cedryck]

Your galvanic corrosion holes are small. The tub I took off of my65 ex mod was way worse.

[knac1234]

Crankin-Thanks for the pics. This confirms what I am going to do (or try!). Did you affix a piece from behind as I am planning, and then use some light skimmer? By the way, unbelievable job on your S3 (I looked through your picture link).

Cedryk-Yes, they don't appear bad at all, but I want to eliminate the source of the problem so they don't get worse. The tub will be in-situ, so I am hopeful that access will be fine by at worse removing the rear wheels.

Cheers,
Julian

[crankin]

I did take a piece and stick it behind and then had a buddy weld it up. For the inside of the tub...in some of the pictures you can see that I pop riveted a piece of aluminum over the holes.

Thanks for the compliments!

[knac1234]

Thanks for the compliments!

Well deserved! Hope mine ends up half as good!


Julian

[knac1234]

Here's a look at today's success (I think).

After removing the roof and sidepanels for the first time ever (pretty easy but for 2 nuts covered in roof gutter sealant), the trim and lamps came off. I then drilled every spot weld out and tackled the seatbelt reinforcement areas by cutting around them (whatever rivets were used were made of an alloy unknown to man!!). Seatbelt reinforcements were then removed (I was able to wrench the loop hooks in the bench seat area out and the supports then slid out as seen in the pics!). Finally, had to drill the side lamp assembly holes and the holes for the fuel galvy trim in the new panel.

The panel is now riveted in place (under the galvy trim areas and in the door jamb covered by the rubber seal that will go back there). Now just have to wait 24 hours....hopefully nothing falls off! It's clamped in place pretty well with 2x6s and other creative things!

Incidentally, I expected to find a big dent under that riveted on panel under the fuel filler. Wrong....NOTHING....no dings, nice paint....why would someone rivet that there?!

Thanks for all the help. I MAY attempt the left side as I might have found left panels.....or may try to salvage the left side tomorrow first.

By the way, the pneumatic pop riveter I bought from Harbor Freight was awesome! Should have bought it years ago! Just got to get a hammer riveter now.

Cheers,
Julian

[SafeAirOne]

Nice job. I may have missed it somewhere--Did you use panel adhsive on the wheelwell-to-tub joint?

[knac1234]

Yes Mark, I used 3M 8115 panel adhesive as recommended by Ted on here who did the same job. So, between the rivets holding it in place and the adhesive that is supposed to be impossible to remove once cured, I am hoping nothing will fall off

Was a little nervous when I finally got the panel off, all hacked up. That was the point of no return

Julian

[LaneRover]

Is there any chance that the panel under the filler cap was there to protect the side from filling from Jerry cans?

[Jim-ME]

I kind of wondered the same thing except that it may have been put on to protect the panel from being chipped by the fuel cap and the chain the holds the cap to the tube. When you let the cap dangle off the chain while refueling it will bounce off the panel. That's what happened to my first Rover.
Jim

[martindktm]

Nice job Julian!

[Skeeball]

Very nice job the outcome was worth the effort..
I plan on replacing the 2 rear panels on my '64 a job I am not really looking forward to but after seeing your result I am feeling more confidant.
I will also need to replace the entire strip that allows the tub to bolt to the rear crossmember there is a lot of corrosion there. Has anyone here done this? its hard to tell but is this 1 piece or 3 seperate ones ??

[knac1234]

Martin and skeeball-

Thanks for the comments! Got to work an hour early this morning and removed the clamps (which meant it had 40 hours of cure time instead of the 24 hours specified).

Holds great, so it appears to be successful!

skeeball--FYI I have never done anything like this before. It is not difficult at all, so give yours a go!

Julian

[Skeeball]

Julian I am concerned about getting everything all lined up once I use that panel adhesive..