My 73 Series 3 Project
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You need this for the LH Door mirror, plus the top door hinge :-
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Both currently in stockLes Parker
Tech. Support and Parts Specialist
Rovers North Inc.
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You need this for the LH Door mirror, plus the top door hinge :-
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Both currently in stockConsecutive drives without breaking down: 3Comment
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So on to the next major challenge...fuel. Since I got the beast running, she has been spitting up rust and various material from the fuel tank. We had two fuel filters installed in hopes of cleaning it out. But it just wasn't happening. It would run clean for a few miles and then out of no where, total blockage and stall. Today we pulled the gas tank to take a peek. The floater has started to breakdown. The shell of it is breaking apart and is being sucked up. On top of that, the tank itself is covered in rust which is also being sucked up little by little. I will get some pictures of it tomorrow...but went ahead and pulled the trigger on a new tank, gaskets, etc. I still might try to recover the old one, but felt better with a new one. I am still going to coat the tank when I get the new one. I think the new sender has a low fuel sender on it...and if so that will be cool to get online.
Also got some motor and tranny mounts coming...I read a lot of positive things about vibration reduction with new mounts. My LR vibrates like a tin can. At the right idle RPM...the temperature gauge goes bonkers. Mirrors shaking like crazy. I hope the new mounts will help that...and they are pretty inexpensive...so worth a shot.Consecutive drives without breaking down: 3Comment
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Take a look at the fuel draw tube as well. There is supposed to be a mesh "sock" on the end that screens out debris. Sounds like this may be missing as well. That's the first line of defense. Second in the fuel bowl - I'm sure you've pulled and cleaned it. The third line of defense is the in-line fuel filter, which is sounds like you've been using.
When installing your new tank, be sure to use the two rubber grommets that are sandwiched on the single, rear tank bolt/mount. These are important to making sure the tank mounts can flex - vs cracking the tank.
You'll like the new engine mounts - worth the effort to install - you probably saw my comments on my experience. Night and day difference. Note - I was unable to figure out how to get the transmission mounts swapped out "in-place". I considered jacking up the transmission but was concerned I might lift it into the seat box - and, knowing I was pulling the transmission to get at the rear-main seal, I left the job until later. It may be doable though.1968 Series IIa
1997 Defender SW (Original Owner - Sold)Comment
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Consecutive drives without breaking down: 3Comment
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At some point in the distant past, an electric fuel pump was put in. So my sediment checkpoints are both in line filters which are see through and are easy to maintain. Once the new tank is in...the filters will be on easy street.Consecutive drives without breaking down: 3Comment
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That sock was gone...when I was hunting parts online I found out that piece was missing. I am not buying an entire pickup just for that...I will see what generic ones I can get for a few bucks. Those rubber washers were also no where to be found...lol. Prior work to the gas tank was done to fix a leak...who knows possibly because those were gone. But at the end of the day, they put it back together with leftover parts (rubber washers/pick up screen). God knows what else is missing on my LR. I should have most of the parts in before week's end...so should be a fun weekend
This should help with the pickup tube: http://www.impalas.com/catalogsearch...at=0&q=56517051968 Series IIa
1997 Defender SW (Original Owner - Sold)Comment
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Replacing the tank is a good call. Starting with clean fuel solves a lot of problems :-)
This should help with the pickup tube: http://www.impalas.com/catalogsearch...at=0&q=5651705Consecutive drives without breaking down: 3Comment
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Glad they arrived OK.
Hope they work out for you.Les Parker
Tech. Support and Parts Specialist
Rovers North Inc.
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...Note - I was unable to figure out how to get the transmission mounts swapped out "in-place". I considered jacking up the transmission but was concerned I might lift it into the seat box - and, knowing I was pulling the transmission to get at the rear-main seal, I left the job until later. It may be doable though.
ColinComment
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Do you need to loosen the transmission mounts to get enough lift on the engine mounts to remove? I would assume this would make it easier...since in theory this is one big piece of metal you are wanting to move (motor plus tranny).Consecutive drives without breaking down: 3Comment
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Be be careful about how much you lift the transmission or engine overall. There is room to do it - but you need to be aware of the OD shift arm's movement relative to the tunnel cover and also make sure the transmission itself does not contact the tunnel cover or seat housing.1968 Series IIa
1997 Defender SW (Original Owner - Sold)Comment
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So we have been working on putting in a new gas tank. Below I got a shot of new hotness and old and busted. I would still like to try and salvage the old one, but not depending on it at this moment.
I went ahead and coated the new tank with Red Kote...was an interesting new experience...lol. I let it cure for one day and then we started to mount the new tank.Consecutive drives without breaking down: 3Comment
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