That's a great photo and painting. I have been wanting to have one done of my Series.
What did you do to your Rover today?
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Thanks I bought her from a guy near Colorado Springs this past Summer but haven't gotten around to getting it inspected/registered. My sister and mom are photographers and thought it would be cool to get an HDR picture of it and printed on canvas. I want to do another printed on metal which would look really cool too. Thought they would be a good gift idea for LR nuts like me. Contact Summer at SLKneese@gmail.com if you are interested in one, shes out of Kerrville, TX.
Hope to get it running well soon, next project is to trouble shoot the 4wd. I'm about 95% certain its the old warn locking hubs since the front drive shaft turns in 4wd but (with the hubs "locked") there still isn't any power to the front wheels. I'm taking suggestions on what to do... replace with warn hubs, return to stock hubs or some other solution. Shes going to do a fair amount of city driving and quite a bit of off-roading/hunting. Any advice would be much appreciated!1966 Series IIA
Austin, TXComment
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Thanks I bought her from a guy near Colorado Springs this past Summer but haven't gotten around to getting it inspected/registered. My sister and mom are photographers and thought it would be cool to get an HDR picture of it and printed on canvas. I want to do another printed on metal which would look really cool too. Thought they would be a good gift idea for LR nuts like me. Conttact Summer at SLKneese@gmail.com if you are interested in one, shes out of Kerrville, TX.
Hope to get it running well soon, next project is to trouble shoot the 4wd. I'm about 95% certain its the old warn locking hubs since the front drive shaft turns in 4wd but (with the hubs "locked") there still isn't any power to the front wheels. I'm taking suggestions on what to do... replace with warn hubs, return to stock hubs or some other solution. Shes going to do a fair amount of city driving and quite a bit of off-roading/hunting. Any advice would be much appreciated!
with your Rover in 2wd and hubs unlocked, the front driveshaft should be able to turned by hand very easily. Now, engage the 4wd and the driveshaft should not turn freely by hand. If it turns freely, then you are not engaging 4wd in the t-case.
If you are truly engaging the t-case, then I would jack up the front end and get both front wheels off the ground. Keep it in 2WD. Turn each wheel by hand with the hubs unlocked. The wheel should spin freely. Now engage one hub at a time. You should feel resistance after the hub is locked. If you don't feel resistance after locking the hub, then the hub is not engaging fully. With both hubs locked, if you spin one wheel, the opposite wheel will spin in the opposite direction if the hubs are working properly.
If you find a hub not working correctly, disassemble the hub and clean thoroughly. Make sure you put it back together correctly as it is supposed to be. If you are unsure, take the other one apart to see or just ask.
Hope that helps.Comment
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Thanks John for the great advice. I had previously confirmed the front drive shaft was getting power (don't ask how since it probably wasn't the safest way) but I have been scratching my head how to troubleshoot which hub it is. I'll follow your instructions and hopefully its repairable. If not I may return them to the original hubs for ease of use and lubrication issues. Thanks again!1966 Series IIA
Austin, TXComment
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With the type of driving you describe doing, you should be fine with the standard drive members. I find the free wheeling hubs do make a difference on highway runs though. That little extra bit of power you get from not having to turn so much metal seems to let me keep up with traffic on hills better when the engine is maxed out at top speed.Bad gas mileage gets you to some of the greatest places on earth.Comment
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With the type of driving you describe doing, you should be fine with the standard drive members. I find the free wheeling hubs do make a difference on highway runs though. That little extra bit of power you get from not having to turn so much metal seems to let me keep up with traffic on hills better when the engine is maxed out at top speed.Comment
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Got a lot done on mine: replaced rubber wheel on the turn signal, new bulbs and now I have turn signals that work. Windshield wiper motor rebuilt and working. New rubber boots on all the shifters, new door hinge pins and bushings, new horn that works, new valve cover gasket and sorted out some wiring issues. Now its ready to take for a vehicle inspection for the first time in 43 years!1983 LR 110 soft-top
1991 RRC
1963 LR II-A 88"Comment
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Finally finished restoring and re-installing of master cylinder reservoir after sourcing a DOT 4 resistant washer for bottom of can. Let's hope it does not leak. Tried to reconnect new RN brake line to old type CV brake master when it looks like the new brake line I installed has a connector that is smaller than the old one (?). I either have to start over and get a brake line connector that fits or find an adapter to bring it from the smaller size to one that fits the 109 CV Brake Master.
1971 Series IIa 109 Ex-MoD
1994 Landcruiser FJZ80, ARB Front Bumper, Old Man EMU suspensionComment
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i replaced my hood latch mechanism, which has been a chronic irritant for years. The hood would spring up (not completely open) as is you had worked the lever to open the hood, and always left a 1-2" gap between the front wings and the edge of the hood. The new latch seems to be holding the hood down properly and I may be able now to adjust the big pin on the hood to snug it down even more.
I also started a thread covering my long expedition down the Pan-Am high way, on the main forums page. Check it out!Tom
1969 Series IIA 88"
I like it because I understand how it works (mostly).Comment
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Went through the fluids and tyre pressure. Rolled the tilt up and drove around. It was about 65F out on Sat.Comment
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ROAM discs on. The kit was very complete. Thank you RN as you did a really good job putting all the necessary bits in. The really nice thing about the new hubs is no more freeplay in the hub nuts. Not going to miss that. No more BSF bolts in any of it or studs in the bottom of the swivel housing. The only complaint which is minor is that there was some cleanup required on the inside of one swivel housing that required a die grinder. The instructions do state that minor grinding/cleanup may be necessary though. Matt Browne has taken a few pictures. I'll try to get him to send them to me.
JimComment
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