14 year old seeking advice!

[rwollschlager]

As he alluded, the retaining screws on the drums will be the worst part of the demolition. I wouldn't worry about trying to save them, they are strictly to aid in the manufacturing process by holding the drums in place until the next guy down the line could put the wheels on.

False, they center the drum. Not a crucial component but they do serve their purpose. http://siteground237.com/~gunsandr/s...ke-Drum-Screws

Alternately, you might consider putting pre ABS Discovery 1 or Range Rover axles under it. These come with discs front and rear, are fully compatible with the Series drive shafts, have a taller gear for better highway driving, and are easy to get parts for. For about what you'll spend on new Series brake parts you'll get both front and rear from your friendly Used parts guy and probably have change left over. They're much better axles hub to hub and the series wheels will bolt right up. Other than being a tad wider than the series axles you'd never be able to tell outwardly. Cutting off the coil spring perches and fitting leaf spring perches is a simple, tried and true and well documented Rover conversion. My $.02.
Oh and you might also consider Parabolic springs with military shackles. Gets the thing up in the air a bit more.

Much easier said than done. The stock series axles are simple to work with. The taller ratios in the pre ABS Discovery 1 or Range Rover axles will make it harder for your truck to climb those hills of vermont unless you have the power to turn them. Also the rear axle may bolt up trouble free with minor welding, but replacing the front axle will introduce a slew of problems with the steering geometry, and unless done properly, it will introduce the undesirable handling sensation known as bump-steer.These axles may be in the picture for you later on down the road if you're planning some serious modifications and have the knowledge and skills to carry them out, but for now they would introduce unnecessary complications and hassles.

If you do go for the parabolic springs with military shackles, it will alter the angle of your pinion, which is easily corrected with shims like these: http://www.bluetorchfab.com/Product/...-4-Degree.aspx It is a common and easy modification.

A car needs to do three things, start, stop, and not catch on fire. Focus on achieving those first and then worry about modifications later. You'll find that these are incredibly capable machines bone stock, get it going first then figure out what you personally think needs improving next.

-Rob

[o2batsea]

See? What'd we tell ya. Right or wrong you'll get lots of opinions.
Rob loves his drum screws, I don't. He loves his drum brakes, I don't. The gearing issues are easily overcome by using the Series diffs in the RRC axles. It's all out there on the web; pictures and step by step instructions about making the coil axles work on the Series.
The taller springs and shackles, yup the caster shims will be a good idea. I have some around here somewhere from my old leaf sprung days....Hey I even have a set of parabolics and mil shackles I'll let you have for shipping.
Another old school trick is to put the brakes from a 109 on the 88. The 109 drums are bigger and give you better stoppy. I have a set for ya if you want to go that way. Nothing wrong with drum brakes. I could always lock 'em up up with a good sharp jab on the pedal, however a screeching slide in a Series truck is not for the faint of heart. Especially the red headed kind.

[jopa]

Simple way to free up rusted/stuck brakes on drums with MINIMAL dissassembly. On the rear leave the tires/rims on- Remove the axle shaft and flange, remove the hub nut fasteners and loosen up the hub nut...then wiggle the tire/rim..it will all come free...fronts are similar- just may have to strip down a FHW if they are fitted. Ive done that trick in the field several times on hulks that have been sitting for many many a year.
I may have some parts to donate to your cause- shoot me an email off the board- John

[GeniusAndHisAssistant]

Simple way to free up rusted/stuck brakes on drums with MINIMAL dissassembly. On the rear leave the tires/rims on- Remove the axle shaft and flange, remove the hub nut fasteners and loosen up the hub nut...then wiggle the tire/rim..it will all come free...fronts are similar- just may have to strip down a FHW if they are fitted. Ive done that trick in the field several times on hulks that have been sitting for many many a year.
I may have some parts to donate to your cause- shoot me an email off the board- John

you have a private message... i couldnt find your email

[cgalpin]

Ebben, any more pictures or an update?

False, they center the drum. Not a crucial component but they do serve their purpose. http://siteground237.com/~gunsandr/s...ke-Drum-Screws

Rob it's interesting you say this. I recently put new drums on the front of my truck and they only came with one hole. I now have a noticeable pulse in the pedal as well as the fronts are making a noise that sounds like the drum is not centered under light braking. I'll try refitting them with the single hole at 12 oclock and also swap the rears (just turned) to the front and see if it resolves the noise issue.

[disco2hse]

Rob it's interesting you say this. I recently put new drums on the front of my truck and they only came with one hole. I now have a noticeable pulse in the pedal as well as the fronts are making a noise that sounds like the drum is not centered under light braking. I'll try refitting them with the single hole at 12 oclock and also swap the rears (just turned) to the front and see if it resolves the noise issue.

The single hole is for the Series III. On the later model you do not need to locate the drum as in the earlier models, instead the screw is used to release the drum if it is stuck on the hub (brakes are jammed or it is rusted on). You basically insert the screw and wind off the drum. The hole should be threaded.

I suppose of you are using them on a II or IIA you could drill and counter sink some new holes. Like I said earlier about modifying bits to suit their intended purpose.

PS. Changing axle housings from original to a later model is not trivial. KISS.

[GeniusAndHisAssistant]

more pictures at the end of that album. ( i put up the link on page 4). i'll put it in my signature though. today we took the front tires and drums off, and the front wheels spin now! i even have some brake pad left... now tomorrow is the day for the back wheels.

we know we have to replace the cylinder and springs, so we'll put together an order for roversnorth! look forward to calling them. i have already had to call them once, and they were very helpful!

how do you pull the master cylinder and shoes? no, we don't have a manual, but i'll search around for one!

thanks!
ebben

[crankin]

more pictures at the end of that album. ( i put up the link on page 4). i'll put it in my signature though. today we took the front tires and drums off, and the front wheels spin now! i even have some brake pad left... now tomorrow is the day for the back wheels.

we know we have to replace the cylinder and springs, so can we get them at an auto parts store?

thanks!
ebben

More than likely negative on the parts store. You have yourself one of them fancy British cars.

The cylinders are one of those things that can be hit or miss on quality with after market brands, such as Britpart. I purchased a brake rebuild kit from a competitor's website. Out of the four cylinder's one was bad...but they happily replaced it for free. But all in all..I save some money buying aftermarket instead on NOS (new old stock).

[GeniusAndHisAssistant]

Here's a link to workshop manuals http://www.landroverweb.com/landrove...rover-manuals/.

that link only has the manuals for series III, would it still be the same?

[cgalpin]

It should be good enough for most things, or at least until you get your hands on a hard copy of the IIA ones.

It was good advice someone gave to leave the drums off if you just want to get it rolling so you can put it in the shed. You'll want to pull the hubs and replace seals (and anything else needed) and grease up the bearings and once you have the hubs off, the brakes are much easier to get to.

That said, there are springs top and bottom that come off. Take note of how they are installed. Then the cylinder is held on by two bolts from the other side of the backing plate (and you'll need to disconnect the brake line). The bottom of the shoes are held by a retaining ring which will have two bolts holding it to the leading shoe. Undo those and the bottoms of the shoes will come off. It can all be done with the hubs in place but harder.

Well done so far!

[Partsman]

Here you go Ebben, this is the manual you'll want to have at your side:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/1855205548?tag=roverhaulcom-20&camp=14573&creative=327641&linkCode=as1&creativeASIN=1855205548&adid=0HEJ4NZR2JSKATZZB8YN&&ref-refURL=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.roverhaul.com%2Fbooks.htm

Well worth the investment

[GeniusAndHisAssistant]

How do I "pull the hubs"?

[cgalpin]

See this parts page provided by our hosts for the basic layout. You have selectable lockers on the front which have a few more moving parts and I am not familiar with, so I'd start at the rear if I were you.

http://roversnorth.com/c-69-hub-assembly.aspx

The manual should provide step by step instructions, but if you look at the parts involved and work your way in it should be pretty self explanatory. You will want to read the manual before re-assembling and make sure you set the preload on the bearings properly.

But I'd wait until you have it in the shed before pulling the hubs.

[GeniusAndHisAssistant]

See this parts page provided by our hosts for the basic layout. You have selectable lockers on the front which have a few more moving parts and I am not familiar with, so I'd start at the rear if I were you.

http://roversnorth.com/c-69-hub-assembly.aspx

The manual should provide step by step instructions, but if you look at the parts involved and work your way in it should be pretty self explanatory. You will want to read the manual before re-assembling and make sure you set the preload on the bearings properly.

But I'd wait until you have it in the shed before pulling the hubs.

no garage yet... we're still building it. i think we're going to have to lay down some plywood and do this outside.... i think i'm going to pull the rear wheels/drums and see if i can get them to spin.

oil filter is on order... it'll be in next week.

the frame is only broken in two spots, and that is the front horns on both sides. we shouldn't have to take the body off to do those... yay!

ebben

[mongoswede]

"The frame is only broken in 2 spots" Thats signature material right there.