My 73 Series 3 Project

[SafeAirOne]

-I now have two side mirrors thanks to Ike...but still not enough miles to trust them.

Ike's mirrors are trustworthy. Unlike those aftermarket mirrors, I've never heard stories of Ike's NOS mirrors lying, cheating or stealing.

-Front hubs are getting hot...went back to the shop notes and they put in new seals, but not new bearings. I am about 90% sure they are in need of replacement. Hopefully the races are not loose on the hub...I do not want to replace the hubs.

Are you sure the brakes aren't just dragging? Or the preload on the bearings isn't wrong?

[lumpydog]

Are you sure the brakes aren't just dragging? Or the preload on the bearings isn't wrong?

This ^^^

Jack up each side/wheel (I think you have free wheel hubs - set the hub to "free"). Spin the raised wheel and listen for brake shoe scrub. You will hear and feel it. It won't spin a full rotation easily.

Bearings = overtightened hub nut. The heat you feel will come from the hub/center. If it's the brakes, the heat will radiate closer to the wheel's mounting nuts and away from the hub.

[lumpydog]

Bad:
-Tranny wants to pop out of 2nd great under deceleration (high or low range). I also seem to have a leak around the rear seal of the tranny. From what I was reading, both of these may be linked to the rear nut coming loose.
-Front hubs are getting hot...went back to the shop notes and they put in new seals, but not new bearings. I am about 90% sure they are in need of replacement. Hopefully the races are not loose on the hub...I do not want to replace the hubs.


I feel I am close to actually being able to drive this thing with some confidence.

Checking the rear nut is easy enough. There is an inspection plate above it. You can view down into the transmission by removing the middle seat cushion and the cover below it. Inspection plate is 4 nuts. If you have and Overdrive, you will need to pull it - otherwise, you'll have a quick/easy/clear view of the nut inquestion.

With regard to the tank's sender, definitely put the old sender back in and test it. You shouldn't have to drain the tank to do it. You may have the wrong sender for your truck. There are different types and they need to be paired to the gauge you are using. Swapping in the old one to see if it works will narrow things down. If the old gauge is also off, there is the possibility your voltage stabilizer (mounted to the back of speedo) is bad. It converts 12 volts to the 10 volts needed by the temp and fuel gauges. An indicator that the stabilizer is bad - the temp gauge also is off on its reading. Other possibilities, the fuel gauge/pod itself is bad. Wiring is bad somewhere in the circuit.

[ninescorpions]

Ike's mirrors are trustworthy. Unlike those aftermarket mirrors, I've never heard stories of Ike's NOS mirrors lying, cheating or stealing.

lol...well played sir.

[ninescorpions]

Are you sure the brakes aren't just dragging? Or the preload on the bearings isn't wrong?

100% sure it is not the brakes...already went that route. I did however watched a YouTube on how to adjust the hubs...which I was quite ignorant on until then. That is a very good possibility. The gauge used to measure the float (or free play)...do the auto parts store rent those out?

[ninescorpions]

This ^^^

Jack up each side/wheel (I think you have free wheel hubs - set the hub to "free"). Spin the raised wheel and listen for brake shoe scrub. You will hear and feel it. It won't spin a full rotation easily.

Bearings = overtightened hub nut. The heat you feel will come from the hub/center. If it's the brakes, the heat will radiate closer to the wheel's mounting nuts and away from the hub.

I did jack up the front axel and spin both tires in free wheel mode. Right front is free...left front is not. No brake scrub...to confirm the brake was adjusted all the way out (absolutely no contact under 360 degrees.) Heat is generated from hub center...second clear indicator that something is a miss in the bearing (either adjustment wise or function wise).

[ninescorpions]

Checking the rear nut is easy enough. There is an inspection plate above it. You can view down into the transmission by removing the middle seat cushion and the cover below it. Inspection plate is 4 nuts. If you have and Overdrive, you will need to pull it - otherwise, you'll have a quick/easy/clear view of the nut in question.

Roger that...if I recall what I read it has a quite high torque setting. 90 if I recall. And I read where a homemade socket was needed, short of buying a specific tool to tighten it. But first things first...is it actually loose.

[ninescorpions]

With regard to the tank's sender, definitely put the old sender back in and test it. You shouldn't have to drain the tank to do it. You may have the wrong sender for your truck. There are different types and they need to be paired to the gauge you are using. Swapping in the old one to see if it works will narrow things down. If the old gauge is also off, there is the possibility your voltage stabilizer (mounted to the back of speedo) is bad. It converts 12 volts to the 10 volts needed by the temp and fuel gauges. An indicator that the stabilizer is bad - the temp gauge also is off on its reading. Other possibilities, the fuel gauge/pod itself is bad. Wiring is bad somewhere in the circuit.

I was wondering if it is relatively safe to remove the old sender without draining the tank? According to the part number and what is available...it is the right one. Granted...does not ensure it will work. But I do not want to point a finger at a new part till I extinguish all other options.

[ninescorpions]

Just wanted to take a moment and say thanks to all of you guys that respond to my posts. It has helped me a ton on getting passed one problem and on to the next. Between this forum, the green bible, and YouTube...I am getting there. I am learning so much mechanical stuff and the farther I get, the more comfortable I feel since if something does go wrong down the road (and I am sure it will)...I will be better prepared to troubleshoot and solve it.

Cheers!

[lumpydog]

100% sure it is not the brakes...already went that route. I did however watched a YouTube on how to adjust the hubs...which I was quite ignorant on until then. That is a very good possibility. The gauge used to measure the float (or free play)...do the auto parts store rent those out?

I use this one. At that price, nice to own/have.

[lumpydog]

I was wondering if it is relatively safe to remove the old sender without draining the tank? According to the part number and what is available...it is the right one. Granted...does not ensure it will work. But I do not want to point a finger at a new part till I extinguish all other options.

It's safe. Just work in a ventilated space. No spark or flame sources nearby. If you're really concerned, a good safety measure whenever you mess with electric on your truck - disconnect the negative/ground wire from the battery.

[lumpydog]

Just wanted to take a moment and say thanks to all of you guys that respond to my posts. It has helped me a ton on getting passed one problem and on to the next. Between this forum, the green bible, and YouTube...I am getting there. I am learning so much mechanical stuff and the farther I get, the more comfortable I feel since if something does go wrong down the road (and I am sure it will)...I will be better prepared to troubleshoot and solve it.

Cheers!

Somewhere in my post history is the same post :-)

These trucks are great teachers. They are tolerant of mistakes but are also very vocal if you know how to listen (heat at the hubs). You're well on your way. Keep at it - it's a really fun hobby.

[SafeAirOne]

I use this one. At that price, nice to own/have.

Yeah, for Rover stuff/occasional use, the magnetic base dial & indicator that Harbor Freight sells is just fine too.

[ninescorpions]

Bouncing back to the hubs. I got the LF hub off today. Races were not loose in the hub and seal is ok. However the rollers on the bearings have little to no rotation. As well you can see groves worn into the rollers and race where the bearing has "locked" in place. I would assume the load of the wheel, etc has induced that wear since it is not properly spinning. I believe it was likely spinning some, but would catch on the grooves created by the roller. Take a look at the inside of the race (I believe this is outer).

I would assume this is not normal wear and tear.

[ninescorpions]

Here is what the bearing looks like (grease has been removed...so all that you see if the actual bearing).