Installed the Rovers North hitch today. Kit fit perfect except for the lack of nuts in the hardware packet. Now it's ready to pull the sailboat...in about 6 months.
With the type of driving you describe doing, you should be fine with the standard drive members. I find the free wheeling hubs do make a difference on highway runs though. That little extra bit of power you get from not having to turn so much metal seems to let me keep up with traffic on hills better when the engine is maxed out at top speed.
With the type of driving you describe doing, you should be fine with the standard drive members. I find the free wheeling hubs do make a difference on highway runs though. That little extra bit of power you get from not having to turn so much metal seems to let me keep up with traffic on hills better when the engine is maxed out at top speed.
Thanks John for the great advice. I had previously confirmed the front drive shaft was getting power (don't ask how since it probably wasn't the safest way) but I have been scratching my head how to troubleshoot which hub it is. I'll follow your instructions and hopefully its repairable. If not I may return them to the original hubs for ease of use and lubrication issues. Thanks again!
Thanks I bought her from a guy near Colorado Springs this past Summer but haven't gotten around to getting it inspected/registered. My sister and mom are photographers and thought it would be cool to get an HDR picture of it and printed on canvas. I want to do another printed on metal which would look really cool too. Thought they would be a good gift idea for LR nuts like me. Conttact Summer at SLKneese@gmail.com if you are interested in one, shes out of Kerrville, TX.
Hope to get it running well soon, next project is to trouble shoot the 4wd. I'm about 95% certain its the old warn locking hubs since the front drive shaft turns in 4wd but (with the hubs "locked") there still isn't any power to the front wheels. I'm taking suggestions on what to do... replace with warn hubs, return to stock hubs or some other solution. Shes going to do a fair amount of city driving and quite a bit of off-roading/hunting. Any advice would be much appreciated!
tkneese: WARN lockout hubs can be assembled incorrectly very easily. I have seen several competent mechanics assemble them incorrectly causing the 4wd to not work. Here is what I would do:
with your Rover in 2wd and hubs unlocked, the front driveshaft should be able to turned by hand very easily. Now, engage the 4wd and the driveshaft should not turn freely by hand. If it turns freely, then you are not engaging 4wd in the t-case.
If you are truly engaging the t-case, then I would jack up the front end and get both front wheels off the ground. Keep it in 2WD. Turn each wheel by hand with the hubs unlocked. The wheel should spin freely. Now engage one hub at a time. You should feel resistance after the hub is locked. If you don't feel resistance after locking the hub, then the hub is not engaging fully. With both hubs locked, if you spin one wheel, the opposite wheel will spin in the opposite direction if the hubs are working properly.
If you find a hub not working correctly, disassemble the hub and clean thoroughly. Make sure you put it back together correctly as it is supposed to be. If you are unsure, take the other one apart to see or just ask.
Thanks I bought her from a guy near Colorado Springs this past Summer but haven't gotten around to getting it inspected/registered. My sister and mom are photographers and thought it would be cool to get an HDR picture of it and printed on canvas. I want to do another printed on metal which would look really cool too. Thought they would be a good gift idea for LR nuts like me. Contact Summer at SLKneese@gmail.com if you are interested in one, shes out of Kerrville, TX.
Hope to get it running well soon, next project is to trouble shoot the 4wd. I'm about 95% certain its the old warn locking hubs since the front drive shaft turns in 4wd but (with the hubs "locked") there still isn't any power to the front wheels. I'm taking suggestions on what to do... replace with warn hubs, return to stock hubs or some other solution. Shes going to do a fair amount of city driving and quite a bit of off-roading/hunting. Any advice would be much appreciated!
Just a heads up, my 71 2a master cyl started leaking at the seal between the reservoir and the body so I picked up a SEALED rebuild kit for $90 plus, after I cleaned everything then rebuilt the inside I found the kit does NOT contain the ONLY seal I needed and being it's not an "O" ring but a special seal I couldn't get one. Then couldn't get a series 2a 88 master cyl either so I installed a series 3 109 with no problems. Just saying... the lowest cost is not always the cheapest.
Continuing the Brake Job on '71 Series IIa ex-MOD. Been through front cylinders, front brake lines, master cylinder, pedal tower, and now... , trying to see if I can continue to use the Reservoir that is there. Surface rust on outside, but basically looks OK. The inside shows no sign of rust, so will clean up outside rust and see what I have.
All I did today was stare longingly at my 109 as I left for work in the dark, knowing I'd also get home in the dark and not have any time to get to anytime soon.
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