I may be wrong, but it would seem to me thet the spacer should go between the belt and the bracket.
Originally posted by Enigma
Perhaps the seat belt and spacer should be on the inside of the braket next to the seat box, Then only the bolt head would be near the door.
tried that. the nut is on the inside and spacer outside for two reasons... 1) would not fit between the bracket and the seat box. 2) needed to use it to "lock" the bolt into the threaded bracket.
By 're-fabricate' do you mean take the hacksaw to it?
I just checked mine, and the spacer is between the belt and the bracket. I think it was to hold the tab off the bracket so the folded over webbing didn't chafe on the side of the bracket. I don't see that it matters which side of the belt tab it's on, the bolt is threaded in to the same depth either way, and tightens up.
By 're-fabricate' do you mean take the hacksaw to it?
precisely. chopped it and re-threaded the tip.
the webbing on this belt is attached to a plate that triangulates at the tip, where it attaches to the bolt for the bracket. basically, the webbing doesn't touch anything so no chaffing.
I never really post on this thread but lately I've had a flurry of little projects.
I finally installed inertia harnesses in the rear of my 109 SW. Now the kids and wife can ride along. We are doing a Death valley trip after Christmas.
Also, the rig got a new Roverdrive and some thick rubber horse stall mats cut to fit as floor mats. They are 50 bucks for a 4x8 mat but they are the last mats I will ever have to buy.
And I'm just finishing up the wiring on a set of Hella 500 driving lights mounted to my roof rack. I need to fabricate a dash panel to install to the left of the steering wheel in order to mount the switch for the Hellas. They will get a genuine Lucas toggle switch (relayed of course).
I also put some reflective candy striping on the rear of the rack. The rack and rooftop tent put some serious drag what is already a brick, aerodynamically speaking, so I wanted a little extra warning margin for traffic coming up from behind.
I'm almost done installing new Exmoor trim elephant hide door panels purchased from our hosts. They look awesome!
And lastly I picked up a Rochester carb on ebay to replace the Zenith on my 109 SW. My 109 pickup has a Rochester, which gives it much more responsive top end, and I am done with the wheezy Zenith. I need a bit more highway grunt.
Next- an Engel freezer fridge, and a headliner kit from Badger. Then maybe a Detroit Locker in the rear Salisbury. My wife's okay with all of it... really!
'60 SII Station Wagon
'64 SIIA 109 Regular
'68 SIIA 88 Station Wagon
...Next- an Engel freezer fridge, and a headliner kit from Badger. Then maybe a Detroit Locker in the rear Salisbury. My wife's okay with all of it... really!
They always are...right up till they find out about it, that is.
--Mark
1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel
0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
(9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).
"restoration" work has begun! Took the hardtop, doors and wings off today. Tues will have the seat bases and such removed and, with any luck, the rear tub. From there the bulkhead and frame will get sandblasted. Masterseries rust preventative coating applied to the frame. New footwells/doorposts welded in. Then the bulkhead, cappings, breakfast...anything steel, goes to the galvanizer, then rewire, then paint, then back together...I HOPE!!
I'm out of town right now so I don't have access to the install photos, but if you've ever installed a Fairey it's basically the same. The Roverdrive comes with a full color step-by-step guide. If you can change the oil, you can put one in. Only special tool required is a torque wrench.
'60 SII Station Wagon
'64 SIIA 109 Regular
'68 SIIA 88 Station Wagon
I just dropped my 94 Disco off at the dealership to replace my (Recalled) gas tank, for $0. I couldn't refuse.
I had a great laugh there, I asked the service rep if they were going to change the fuel filter as part of the service. The answer was no. So I asked how much fro them to do it, he said the filter alone was $130. at that point I said, "No thanks!" LOL
I'm pretty sure I can come up with a filter for under $50. LOL
It'll be nice to not spill gas on the ground after a fill up!
Yesterday I moved my seriia88 from my back yard to the garage for its front disk brake conversion after sitting in my back yard for 3-4 months. It started, and made it under its own power!
I did have to run down to the auto parts store for some brake fluid so I could get into gear - the leaky clutch cylinders are going to be replaced along with the brakes, but there was no pushing and/or towing involved.
we have made tremendous progress with our 1971 Series IIA project. My husband ask what I wanted for Christmas, you know what I want.... of course I want to drive my Land Rover! So, the rebuilt 2.25L petrol engine is back in, fuel tank dropped/cleaned (nasty) and reinstalled, new directional signal installed (I really, really wanted to save the original but didn't have all the pieces), rebuilt Weber two barrel carb (I did that - oh yea!), replaced Selectro locking hubs with new Mile Marker hubs (I wanted Warn but Warn suggested Mile Marker) and 4 new Pro Comp shocks and steering damper. License, tags and insurance and I have been cruisin down the road the last two days!
Thanks to all who replied to my questions regarding the hubs!
My wish list is still pretty long.......... but did I mention I LOVE my little Rover!!!!!
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