109 NADA Registry

[patrickfoley1]

Joshua;
It has 43 Pages. The front page provides little information. The top 2/3 of the page is white and states: LAND-ROVER
Owner's Instruction Manual
Incorporating Service Guide
The Bottom 1/3 is Green and states:
THE ROVER CO. LTD
SOLIHULL
WARWICKSHIRE
ENGLAND email me if you want more information. redbrush2@yahoo.com Jim Chandler

[clearcut]

Can you post the front page?

Now many pages is it?

[patrickfoley1]

I am quoting from the Owners Instruction Manual, Part No 4846 U.K Edition. Page Twenty Nine... Mid Page

Engine, 6-cylinder Petrol models
Bore 3.063 in. (77,8 mm)
Stroke 3.625 in. (92,075 mm)
Cylinder capacity 160.3 cu in. (2,625 cc)
Compression Ratio:
Except North American dollar area 109 Station Wagon 7.0:1
North American dollar area 109 Station Wagon 8.8:1
This Part Number was issued October 1966

[Armordave]

Here is a link on the 1967 NADA with the 2.6L Motor

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8OQHv2GHu5FeURDaW9HOElEaWs/view?usp=sharing

See page 18

Josh T

Yea he beat me up when I referred to that article. Says it is wrong, I was wrong etc. he is a big believer in James Taylors book which he says, in the revised edition, lists the 10.5:1 number. I just read and like to know the facts, whatever they are.

[clearcut]

Here is a link on the 1967 NADA with the 2.6L Motor

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8OQHv2GHu5FeURDaW9HOElEaWs/view?usp=sharing

See page 18

Josh T

[Armordave]

On the Landrover Series 2 FB pages a gentleman states that the compression ratio on the 2.6 NADA engine is 10.5:1. No literature that I have seen states that figure. I am not disputing it, however I have not seen that CR in any of the references I have seen, or on these pages. He references the book "Landrover: 65 years of the 4x4" by James Taylor. (I've ordered the book so I can read it for myself). Don't know if I should consider that the most credible source or not. Anyone have any thoughts on this?

[wrellis]

Hi Folks, I want to update the registry for 803. I purchased 34300803A from a fellow in Missouri a few years back. Much work to do.



If anyone has leads on a set of badges I'd be grateful.


Regards,
William

[hackneyed1]

Thanks for touching base. The air filter was sitting around the barn from some other project. There was no intake plenum, just a piece of stocking or something stretched over it when I got it. I just saw a plenum on ebay for 600.00 and then another showed up for 130.00 bucks both touting the infamous "RARE" heading. Yeah, either way I don't think so..
I would be up for an engine swap as long as it didn't get too involved. It would be interesting to see how it costed out compared to the cost of a rebuild. I have gone over just about everything else but the cosmetics and the engine at this point.

Darkstar-I sent you a PM (private message) with some of the answers that you're looking for. -Hackneyed1

[darkstar]

Thanks for touching base. The air filter was sitting around the barn from some other project. There was no intake plenum, just a piece of stocking or something stretched over it when I got it. I just saw a plenum on ebay for 600.00 and then another showed up for 130.00 bucks both touting the infamous "RARE" heading. Yeah, either way I don't think so..
I would be up for an engine swap as long as it didn't get too involved. It would be interesting to see how it costed out compared to the cost of a rebuild. I have gone over just about everything else but the cosmetics and the engine at this point.

[hackneyed1]

Greetings all.
Im new to the forum, but I have been the owner of my nada for almost 25 years. Unfortunately, it has been sitting idle for a VERY long time. I cooked #6 exhaust valve on a “high speed” run on the turnpike coming home from work with the back loaded down with tools, parked it in the barn switched vehicles and just kept working and here I am over a decade later in the process of uncovering it. Time files when your having fun I guess....
Anyhow, the frame although solid, had enough surface corrosion on the front rail that I can’t seem to make out the whole of the frame number in its entirety, I’ll try to get a better look at it as time goes by, but my engine is #S34300011A which I think puts my engine at #11? I recall talking to someone at RN decades ago when I was on one of my many parts binges that told me the “S” prefix means it was factory reworked. I used it as my primary work truck for a few years and it chugged along pretty nicely until that fatal run.
So while I'm uncovering the greaseslapper and digging out my factory manuals, I thought I would reach out to the community.
Haha Here I go:
1- Does anybody happen to have a source for the intake and exhaust valves or have examples to take dimensions from to make drawings?
a. I remember talking to someone out west years ago that recommended finding a motor rebuilder that did performance rebuilds and to have valves, guides and seats made from high heat refractory alloys to help hold up to the heat. Does that make any sense?
2- Is it worth finding factory spec or aftermarket gaskets or just make them?
a. Any known sources for quality gaskets would be appreciated.
3- Have any other engine modifications been done and tested that should be considered seeing as its being opened up?
4- Is there an NADA group on the forum or just this thread?
All for now.
Have a Great Day!
[ATTACH=CONFIG]12205[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]12206[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]12207[/ATTACH]

Welcome back to NADA land. I'll bet most of the responses will be just to do a motor swap for something lighter/faster/more parts available. One guy on this forum had his motor meticulously gone through recently. So he'll likely give you all of the answers you seek. I really like your intake plenum delete. It opens up the whole engine bay. I'm going to have to look at doing that. I wonder if I have any of those old round air filters left over from my Volvo 122S days....

[darkstar]

New to Forum, Another NADA

Greetings all.
Im new to the forum, but I have been the owner of my nada for almost 25 years. Unfortunately, it has been sitting idle for a VERY long time. I cooked #6 exhaust valve on a “high speed” run on the turnpike coming home from work with the back loaded down with tools, parked it in the barn switched vehicles and just kept working and here I am over a decade later in the process of uncovering it. Time files when your having fun I guess....
Anyhow, the frame although solid, had enough surface corrosion on the front rail that I can’t seem to make out the whole of the frame number in its entirety, I’ll try to get a better look at it as time goes by, but my engine is #S34300011A which I think puts my engine at #11? I recall talking to someone at RN decades ago when I was on one of my many parts binges that told me the “S” prefix means it was factory reworked. I used it as my primary work truck for a few years and it chugged along pretty nicely until that fatal run.
So while I'm uncovering the greaseslapper and digging out my factory manuals, I thought I would reach out to the community.
Haha Here I go:
1- Does anybody happen to have a source for the intake and exhaust valves or have examples to take dimensions from to make drawings?
a. I remember talking to someone out west years ago that recommended finding a motor rebuilder that did performance rebuilds and to have valves, guides and seats made from high heat refractory alloys to help hold up to the heat. Does that make any sense?
2- Is it worth finding factory spec or aftermarket gaskets or just make them?
a. Any known sources for quality gaskets would be appreciated.
3- Have any other engine modifications been done and tested that should be considered seeing as its being opened up?
4- Is there an NADA group on the forum or just this thread?
All for now.
Have a Great Day!

[hackneyed1]

Re: Rhode Island Wiring Service: Wow. I'd never heard of them, even after some quality google time. I have an idea to make my own so I can tweak the length and make the loom easier to manage within the instrument panel. Plus, I'd like to change the fuse block (add more fuses to split the circuits-a popped fuse takes out alot of the electrics currently). But RIWS is definitely something to consider. Do I have to send them my harness to replicate or do them have them just to order?

[clearcut]

[QUOTE=hackneyed1;108204]Thanks for the reply. So the fuel bowl that you mention is the cast one on the carb with the float in it?

It is glass bowl attached to the fender. Tank to Pump to Fuel Bowl to Carb. It should right next to the carb


"Grounding the fuel gauge got the needle to go to the halfway mark." Also clean all the connection on the fuse block under the bonnet. Clean connection on the motor for the temp gauge. Passenger side of engine, up front.

"my whole wiring harness needs to be cleaned/replaced" Rhode Island Wiring Service. Just had a new main harness made by them for a future Land Rover NADA project


Re: Heat-cool after d*cking around around for way too long with the wiring, I got the heater fan to run (my whole wiring harness needs to be cleaned/replaced) when the fan ran, heat came out. Of course neither the gas gauge nor temp gauge work. Which they did until I pulled the panel to replace the speedo cable. Grounding the fuel gauge got the needle to go to the halfway mark.

Yes, I still have the original muffler/air filter housing. Very hard to find those parts

josht

[hackneyed1]

Does the 2.6L have a fuel filter? Yes and No. It has a fuel bowl, that has a screen. Host has new ones

The carb started popping as if it was running lean/low on fuel. Please send me a picture of fuel pump.
The correct model for are NADA looks like this

https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&ved=0ahUKEwiFnojd5pnRAhXjylQKHdEICYQQjRwIBw&url=http%3A%2F%2Fsucarb.co.uk%2Fsu-fuel-pumps-

spares.html&psig=AFQjCNEJ_4mQgKvkCosoKU6nLfQf1c3nz w&ust=1483114641263774



Also-How do you turn the heat on? The knob on the firewall says 'r heater'

That is like your choke cable. It goes to the valve assy heater control. Host has new ones. It is under you intake manifold. My ones are push in to be on. IE Water gets to the heater block. The fan switch is on the dash panel. Up should be off. Two speed fan

Due you still have the orginal Air Silencer (air filter) Looks like a muffler.

Josh T

Thanks for the reply. So the fuel bowl that you mention is the cast one on the carb with the float in it?

Re: Heat-cool after d*cking around around for way too long with the wiring, I got the heater fan to run (my whole wiring harness needs to be cleaned/replaced) when the fan ran, heat came out. Of course neither the gas gauge nor temp gauge work. Which they did until I pulled the panel to replace the speedo cable. Grounding the fuel gauge got the needle to go to the halfway mark.

Yes, I still have the original muffler/air filter housing.

[clearcut]

Does the 2.6L have a fuel filter? Yes and No. It has a fuel bowl, that has a screen. Host has new ones

The carb started popping as if it was running lean/low on fuel. Please send me a picture of fuel pump.
The correct model for are NADA looks like this

https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&ved=0ahUKEwiFnojd5pnRAhXjylQKHdEICYQQjRwIBw&url=http%3A%2F%2Fsucarb.co.uk%2Fsu-fuel-pumps-

spares.html&psig=AFQjCNEJ_4mQgKvkCosoKU6nLfQf1c3nz w&ust=1483114641263774



Also-How do you turn the heat on? The knob on the firewall says 'r heater'

That is like your choke cable. It goes to the valve assy heater control. Host has new ones. It is under you intake manifold. My ones are push in to be on. IE Water gets to the heater block. The fan switch is on the dash panel. Up should be off. Two speed fan

Due you still have the orginal Air Silencer (air filter) Looks like a muffler.

Josh T