What did you do to your Rover today?

[masonater]

I installed 2 bolts with nuts through the pinion flange & tightened them down - this basically created 2 pins sticking out from the flange. I then used a bar between the bolts to keep it from turning.

nice trick! im going to try that once i get back from swapping out those dust cap kits for the proper ones

[masonater]

that picture looks great
got any more
aaron

Heres another shot of the front, they are taken with my crappy iphone. I have about 800 pictures of my whole disassembly and what im up to now with the rebuild. I want to make a website someday soon, we all know how helpful pictures of this stuff can be...

and yes, for all the haters the valve cover is not bare aluminum, i powder coated it machine grey along with the oil pan and i like it. At least it's not paint!

side note: last year I posted a question about powder coating the swivel balls, after doing it and putting them back together the oil seal seems to be gliding nice and tight with no problems at all.

[mrdoiron]

Heres another shot of the front, they are taken with my crappy iphone. I have about 800 pictures of my whole disassembly and what im up to now with the rebuild. I want to make a website someday soon, we all know how helpful pictures of this stuff can be...

and yes, for all the haters the valve cover is not bare aluminum, i powder coated it machine grey along with the oil pan and i like it. At least it's not paint!

side note: last year I posted a question about powder coating the swivel balls, after doing it and putting them back together the oil seal seems to be gliding nice and tight with no problems at all.

Wow, very nice...

Giving Jac a run on the detailed restore are you ?!

[albersj51]

Masonater-what shocks are you using?

[masonater]

Wow, very nice...

Giving Jac a run on the detailed restore are you ?!

Ha, no way will i ever come close to his quality or attention to detail, nor could i afford to! The only reason im going this crazy with details is the fact that i can. Im doing the rebuild in a airplane hangar where every tool and piece of equipment is here i could ever need. All the olive drab you see is powder coated and the swivel balls, valve cover, and oil pan are machine grey. I have literally powder coated every nut and bolt up to this point with the exception of a few cad plated nylocks i got. My goal is to make sure rust never has a chance to start anywhere. Living on a island, its going to be next to impossible. Im going to try anyway...

albersj51: the shocks are Pro Comp ES9000 from RN. They used to be white. I just bought a rattle can of camo olive drab Krylon and loaded it on and topped with some clear coat prop paint. I figure it should help.

[albersj51]

Looks awesome! Ive got mine in a zillion pieces right now. Once my frame and bulkhead get here ill begin the slow process of reassembly. Trying to do the detail work now. like you (and all of us) I hate rust, so im doing all I can to prevent it! I don't have the ability (or funds to powder coat, so I'm galvanizing all I can (frame, bulkhead, rad panel,etc) and coating everything else in masterseries silver before I topcoat.

[masonater]

Looks awesome! Ive got mine in a zillion pieces right now. Once my frame and bulkhead get here ill begin the slow process of reassembly. Trying to do the detail work now. like you (and all of us) I hate rust, so im doing all I can to prevent it! I don't have the ability (or funds to powder coat, so I'm galvanizing all I can (frame, bulkhead, rad panel,etc) and coating everything else in masterseries silver before I topcoat.

dont be scared of powder coating i dont have a fancy set up at all. All you need is a kit from eastwood (100 bucks) a toaster oven and what ever color you like for around $30. I scored a large GE oven off craigs list for 100 and now i can do stuff as large as wheels.

[Cutter]

Pulled my entire dashboard and panel off while my alternator is being rebuilt. The cable that switches between windscreen and cabin for heat was broken so I rebuilt it. While I had it apart I picked up a VDO voltmeter and vacuum gauge, ran the vacuum line and a dedicated connection for the voltmeter and cleaned up a bunch the rats nest in there. There were two unused connections in that mid console area, both with black and white striped wires. My truck doesn't have a hazard switch so I'm wondering if that is what they were for? If so it might be worth it to buy the switch.

[cousindave]

Weld grind weld grind weld grind weld grind weld...........well, you get the picture

[Terrys]

There were two unused connections in that mid console area, both with black and white striped wires. My truck doesn't have a hazard switch so I'm wondering if that is what they were for? If so it might be worth it to buy the switch.

White, with black tracer is not related to the hazard warning circuit. I have a vague recollection that is may be for an oil pressure gage. Look and see if theree is another W/b near the oil filter area.

[73series88]

finally got my winch mounted in the right place.
and got my tuffy box secured.
moved the od lever so it faces me and moved the cup holder over one screw hole. the lever is actually better now because it sits right in the center of the gearbox tunnel. and i can still use my cup holder. wasnt giving up on that.

Took the center seatbox cover off. placed the tuffy on the opening. drilled 3 holes through the box and through seatbox. put 3 bolts facing up with nylock nuts and fender washers on the seatbox. 2 in the back one in the front. then was able to lower the tuffy down on the bolts. then i just put some wing nuts to hold the box down. i can have it off in 30 sec.

aaron

[stonefox]

finally got my winch mounted in the right place.
and got my tuffy box secured.
moved the od lever so it faces me and moved the cup holder over one screw hole. the lever is actually better now because it sits right in the center of the gearbox tunnel. and i can still use my cup holder. wasnt giving up on that.

Took the center seatbox cover off. placed the tuffy on the opening. drilled 3 holes through the box and through seatbox. put 3 bolts facing up with nylock nuts and fender washers on the seatbox. 2 in the back one in the front. then was able to lower the tuffy down on the bolts. then i just put some wing nuts to hold the box down. i can have it off in 30 sec.

aaron

Aaron ,I think you my be entitled to a mug for posting reply # 1,000 in the "what did you do to your rover today " thread

[stomper]

Aaron, Do you thing the OD shifts well with the lever in that position? I just reasembled my tunnel after replacing the slave cylinder, and though about mounting it the was you did. It would allow me to reach less to engage it. Is there enough space to engage the OD while the shifter is in 4th?

[73series88]

much better this way
i dont have to reach down into the passenger footwell to shift
and doesnt even come close to hitting the shift lever
aaron

[mrdoiron]

Put the soft top on the 61'

Took the cab top off, and put the soft top on the 61 ole girl...
mike